48 Hours in Bermuda
Text by Gisela Williams
Bermuda beguiles with its blush-colored beaches, fine dining, and watersports galore.
One of the most idyllic summers of my teenage years were spent on Bermuda in the late 1980s, living it up with my gang of cousins who owned an apartment hotel called Astwood Cove. I joined them in sailing lessons at the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club, threw darts with local divemasters at local pubs, explored hidden coves, danced the night away at Hamilton's nightclubs, tried my first Planters Punch, and even attempted to sneak onto one of the big cruise ships without success. Since then, things have changed on this 21-square-mile, hook-shaped archipelago. Offshore financial and reinsurance companies have taken over with a vengeance where honeymoon tourism once reigned, and traffic jams can be a daily hazard. But much is still the same—maintaining the past is a long island tradition—and better. Since Bermuda passed one of the New World's first conservation laws in the early 1600s, its residents have excelled at retaining the island's clichéd but charming emblems: Pastel-colored houses like dainty cakes are topped with ridged white roofs; businessmen proudly don bright colored Bermuda shorts; pink-hued beaches stretch to the next horizon, and local celebrity Johnny Barnes, aka Mr. Feelgood, still waves to commuters and visitors from his post on the main road entering Hamilton.
Fast Facts
Bermuda is named for Spanish navigator Juan de Bermúdez, who in the early 1500s was one of the first of many "accidental tourists" to set sight on its shores (the island´s surrounding reefs were so treacherous that for many years it was dubbed the "Isle of Devils"). Subsequently, Bermuda wasn't settled for another century, becoming Britain´s first legal offshore colony in 1684. It's still their oldest: In 1995, Bermudians voted against independence and for Queen Elizabeth as their figurehead leader. Now with a population of about 65,365 full-time citizens, Bermuda is said to have one of the highest per capita incomes in the world. With 220 days of sun a year and a mild subtropical climate, Bermuda is warm all year with the exception of December through March when temperatures drop to between 50 and 70 (°F). But it's not all mild breezes and blue skies: Less than three years ago Hurricane Fabian hit the island—the worst storm they'd ever seen. Damage was extensive, but the island used the recovery period as an opportunity to improve itself with renovations and hotel expansions.
Don't Miss
While the island has a reputation for harboring an intimidating mix of East Coast WASPs, posh Brits, and multi-millionaires, such as New York mayor Michael Bloomberg, it has a more laid-back and local scene as well. The best way to enjoy Bermuda is to experience a little bit of both. In other words, pack a picnic and explore the secluded coves at Astwood Cove National Park one day; the next, try to get yourself invited for lunch at the tiny Coral Beach Club, one of the island's most exclusive clubs. (Tip: Guests of Waterloo House and Horizons receive membership privileges.) If it fits your budget, charter a boat and skipper with a company like Sail Bermuda to glide among the outlying islands; shorter sails in the Great Sound allow for a different perspective of Bermuda. Another day, hop on the Reef Explorer Glass Bottom Boat Safari or sign up for a scuba diving or snorkel trip with Blue Water Divers & Watersports. The waters around Bermuda are home to at least 4,500 types of marine organisms as well as hundreds of shipwrecks from five centuries and 15 countries. Stroll through the historic town of St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage site that was Bermuda's capital until 1815. Take kitschy pictures of yourself in the stocks at King's Square, then check out the new home of the Bermuda Perfumery in Stewart Hall. Visit St. Peter's, the oldest Anglican church still in use in this hemisphere, and Fort Saint Catherine, an impressive fortress that dates back to 1614. The next day do some window shopping on Hamilton's Front Street. Don't miss a history tour with the colorful "admiral" (Bryan Darby), who keeps guests both laughing and enthralled during his walks through the renovated Royal Naval Dockyard. When you've had your fill of the island's history and beautiful beaches, walk through the lush, 35-acre Botanical Gardens or rent a bike for a ride along the Bermuda Railway Trail.





