There is nothing intercultural about another local Istanbul institution. "The hammam, or Turkish bath, is a cure for the body and soul," suggests museum curator Rosa Martinez, and the claim is played out at the 18th-century Cagaloglu Hamami. Lying on the marble plinth in the domed steam room is probably as close as you will come to taking a sauna in the Pantheon.
Shopping
The massive Grand Bazaar, in the Sultanahmet district, represents one of the world's first&and maybe still best&gallerias. The Byzantine maze of supposedly 4,000 shops is a landmark in its own right and its sheer beauty is only partially obscured by the vendors' incessant sales pitches. They really don't have to try so hard. It's difficult enough to resist the hand-painted ceramic tiles and plates at CS Iznik Nicaea Ceramics, or the embroidered silk and cotton Uzbekistan textiles at Doktor Antik. Even some of the creative kitsch is seductive, especially the plastic mosque alarm clocks and the twirling dervish music boxes. Rug shopping in the bazaar can mean something resembling a court-ship, so, unless you have lots of time, it's better to sample the variety of price-fixed shops nearby, like the Motif Collection, where owner Hamit Balkir sells nomadic tribal rugs that tell a story. Also less daunting than the Grand Bazaar is the smaller Egyptian Spice Bazaar by the Bosporus, with a good selection of ceramic tea sets, apricots stuffed with almonds, and mounds of mint, cumin, paprika, and tea. For locals, though, the city's new profusion of contemporary galleries and boutiques are more exotic. "Accenturc Design Gallery has wonderful hand-designed jewelry," says realtor Hande Erdogan. Another fashionable pit stop: local clothing designer Arzu Kaprol's eponymous shop.
Where the Locals Eat
"The hardest reservation to get in town right now is at Mikla," says Four Seasons concierge Halil Tinaztepe. That may be because the restaurant is such a prime example of the changing Istanbul. Offering a panoramic view of spotlit mosques glowing against the city's inky black din, the penthouse restaurant is pure contemporary high style inside&from the global fusion music to the long banquettes and manicured crowd. "I moved back here because Istanbul has this exotic feeling, but well-traveled young Turks also have a modern sensibility," says half-Finnish, half-Turkish chef Mehmet Gurs, who pairs a grilled chicken breast with local pomegranates, walnuts, and a parsley pistou. The chef is a fan of the contemporary kitchen at Changa, which features Pacific Rim cuisine in an art nouveau town house. For seafood, the restaurants sitting along the Bosporus offer simple grilled fish. Gurs suggests Bebek for its bluefish but the Poseidon flaunts even better water views with its tasty swordfish and grilled shrimp. Borsa specializes in another kind of signature dish&opulent Ottoman revival cuisine like lamb ravioli dressed with creamy yogurt. But the real measure of Turkish cuisine is the kebab, which means simply roast meat, and there are two landmarks. Perched above the Spice Market, Hamdi features a traditional meze appetizer platter of a thin-crust Turkish pizza, vegetables, and grilled lamb rolled in pistachios. For dinner, diehards still make the trek to Beyti, located in a suburb near the airport, for combination lamb platters.
Lodgings
If you want to stay close to the Sultanahmet district and avoid the endless traffic, park yourself at the Four Seasons, situated in a buttercup yellow former prison that no one would want to break out of now. What makes the hotel a favorite is the most attentive staff in town, a tranquil courtyard gazebo res-taurant, and elegant guest rooms. Forget the obvious chocolate mint on a pillow; the turndown treat here is a silver dish filled with chocolate baklava. The moderately priced alternative in the neighborhood is the Blue House, where the rooms are decidedly more spartan, though the wrought iron beds add a flourish and the single suite faces the Blue Mosque. If all this feels too old-school, head to Sumahan on the Water in the Cengelkoy district, a 19th-century distillery that owner Nedret Butler inherited and converted into a boutique hotel as part of her dissertation in architecture. "The actual execution only took 30 years," she laughs. But the work shows in the airy rooms that look directly out onto the Bosporus. Guests can use the hotel's complimentary launch or the nearby ferry service to get downtown. For more predictable highrise luxury, the Ritz-Carlton offers its own Bosporus views and then ups the ante; the hotel's open air, rooftop spa, lets you stroll directly from your Royal Sultans Six Hands Massage to cocktails at the rooftop bar. The homier and less expensive choice in the Beyoglu district is the Galata Antique Hotel, a refurbished 19th-century town house near Istikal Street that still maintains the hushed charm of a family villa.
