Overall, Catalan ceramics are a great value for such a unique souvenir that is harder to find outside of the region. Prices begin at just a few euros for smaller pieces, and climb to several hundred for larger or unusual vessels. You will always pay more at a reseller's shop, like a Barcelona boutique, than you would at a pottery festival or directly from the artisan's studio.
Before you buy, visit one of the regional museums for a quick education in the history of Catalan pottery, and fill your mind with its distinguishing forms and colors. The Museu de Ceràmica in Barcelona houses an extensive collection of traditional Catalan pottery from the 13th century to the present, and sells a few quality reproductions in its shop. Outside the city, the Museu del Càntir in Argentona offers excellent values in its museum store. The Terracotta Museu in La Bisbal d'Empordà and the Museu de Terrissa Catalana in Oristà display smaller yet impressive collections.
Barcelona—despite its reputation as one of the world's greatest shopping cities—is not the place to buy Catalan ceramics. At the pottery shops on the streets surrounding the cathedral, you will not find the best selection or prices, nor will you get the chance to see the wares being made. When you're ready to buy, arrange a trip to one of the regional towns known for pottery, including Argentona, outside of Barcelona; La Bisbal d'Empordà, near Girona; and La Galera, near Tarragona. These rural villages contrast sharply with the stylish Catalan capital, offering a more authentic experience, as well as a better value on traditional Catalan pottery. The best part: few of these towns figure in a guidebook, so it's a great way to experience Catalan life outside the tourist mainstream. Of these towns, La Bisbal d'Empordà is the undisputed capital of Catalan pottery, with numerous artisan studios along the town's main drag. Most of the wares sold in Barcelona shops come from this humble village, where potters have worked the local clay since the 16th century.
One of the best ways to appreciate the Catalan pottery tradition is to put one of its annual ceramic festivals on your itinerary. These extravaganzas offer the chance to meet artisans face to face, and come away with great values on unique pieces. Some of the best: La Fira Mercat de la Terrissa Catalana in Quart, outside of Girona, in December; the Fira de Ceràmica Artesana i Industrial in La Bisbal, biennially in October; and in August, Fira del Càntir in Argentona.
Centuries before the birth of Picasso, Dalí, and Miró, Catalonia already counted many unsung masters of color and form in its ceramic artisans. Remarkably, these traditional pots and modern paintings look great together—a testament to the enduring, colorful spirit of Catalan artists that transcends time and the whimsy of style.
