Cats lounge on the doorstep of my favorite goldsmith's studio, a stone's throw from the gentle rushing of the Tiber. A shaft of sunlight streaks across the closet-size space, capturing air heavy with the flavor of the ancient world. On this artisan's rustic workbench, I discovered what is now one of my most treasured possessions: a gold ring I indulged myself in after a summer spent teaching in the Eternal City.

What captured my imagination was the sight of a modern goldsmith holding an ancient Roman seal—carved by an artisan predecessor some two thousand years ago—and stamping an impression into the molten gold. When I wear my ring, I admire the miniscule mythological figures and the accompanying cryptic inscription, and I feel a powerful, palatable connection to the past.

The ancient Romans inherited an already rich tradition of goldsmithing from the Greeks and Etruscans, who occupied settlements across central and southern Italy. Specialized metalsmiths passed their trades from father to son, master to apprentice. In small workshops, they turned out gold necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and other finery. Fashion-, status-, and wealth-conscious Romans had themselves immortalized in sculpted and painted portraits wearing elaborate baubles. During the Renaissance, noble families like the Medici amassed collections of these golden treasures, and had them copied and restored. Today, Italians still covet gold jewelry, and wear it with everything from evening gowns to swimsuits. It is estimated that there is a jewelry shop for every 2,200 Italians, nearly three times as many as in France or Germany.

In ancient Roman times, goldsmiths began with ingots, or blocks of gold, that they hammered into sheets. The raw gold was more pure—that is, less adulterated with copper and alloys than the gold we use today—and it was therefore much softer and more malleable. This purity accounts for the remarkable brilliance—and fragility—of the ancient pieces displayed in today's museum collections. Gems were rare, but many artisans used semi-precious stones and colored glass in their designs. Today, high-tech methods have replaced the open fire that once stood at the heart of the goldsmith's studio. However, many of the tools today's artisan jeweler uses remain more or less unchanged: small metal hammers, anvils, tongs, chisels, molds, dies, stamps, abrasives, and engraving tools.