email a friend iconprinter friendly iconUmbrian Maiolica
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Although reproductions of Renaissance wares count among the most authentic souvenirs you can purchase, several additional distinctive traditions make for genuine Umbrian finds. Stunning vessels called buccheri are all-black wares achieved by evacuating oxygen from the kiln, a special technique that the ancient Etruscans discovered—probably by accident—in the seventh century B.C. Those with more ornate taste will appreciate maiolica made in Gualdo Tadino, with gilding and frilly edges, made popular in the 19th century. In Gubbio, wares fashioned after the famous historiated or "storytelling" pieces crafted in the 1500s by Master Giorgio Andreoli make an authentic souvenir.

The largest differentiator of quality in Umbrian ceramics lies in the execution of the painted decoration. Unfortunately, many pieces are dashed off for the tourist trade, and you must look carefully and compare details like swirls, fruit, and swags to make sure you're buying a quality piece. If you need help to train your eye toward richer, more quality painting, spend some time examining historical wares in one of the excellent regional museums, like the Museo Regionale della Ceramica in Deruta. A handful of artisans with a deep respect for the tradition produce wares with an insistence on these local materials, colors, shapes, decorative patterns, and fine painting.

Quality pieces of Umbrian ceramics do not come cheap, but you will still spend less in the hill towns of Umbria than if you buy a piece of similar quality in the U.S. Shipping can be costly, though many producers are set up to ship their wares abroad safely. You can even commission an artisan to craft a personalized table service for you, a great idea for newlyweds or anyone who wants a truly unique Umbrian souvenir made to order.

Laura Morelli is an art historian with a passion for the world's artisanal traditions. She writes a regular column for National Geographic Traveler online called "The Genuine Article." Laura also authors a guidebook series, including Made in Italy, Made in France, and Made in the Southwest, which leads travelers to the world's most authentic shopping experiences. She holds a B.A. in languages and a Ph.D. in art history from Yale University. www.lauramorelli.com
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