48 Hours in Key West
Text by Mark Spivak

Here are six top experiences in the continental U.S.'s southernmost city.

1. Commune With the Dolphins Capt. Victoria Impallomeni has guided some 33,000 visitors through the Key West National Wildlife Refuge, bringing them up close and personal with one of the friendliest forms of marine life. "I try to blend the scientific and the mystical," she says. "I connect with the dolphins on a level of vibration and intuition. "Impallomeni has speakers set into the hull of her boat, and plays music to attract dolphins, but on most days this technique is just insurance—after her 33 years on the water, the seagoing mammals practically seek her out.

2. Catch the Sunset at Mallory Square Tennessee Williams supposedly launched the local custom of greeting the sunset with a cocktail. "It's more than a party—it's a sacrament," says Will Soto, a high-wire performer and juggler who has watched the Sunset Celebration grow from less than one hundred people in 1976 to a nightly crowd of thousands today. "It revives the old practice of assembling in the town square to share important communal events." As the sun disappears into the Gulf of Mexico, the group is entertained by buskers, craftsmen, fortune- tellers, and purveyors of street food such as conch fritters and Key Lime tea. For a quieter vantage point, locals prefer the beach at Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park.

3. Taste What's Hot in Town Fine dining arrived in Key West in 1983 with the opening of Louie's Backyard (700 Waddell Ave.), still known for its Caribbean-influenced menu, extensive wine list, and oceanfront views. Residents are buzzing about Santiago's Bodega, an inventive tapas restaurant that offers more than 30 dishes on a rotating basis, including yellowtail ceviche or pinchos morunos (marinated pork kebabs). Looking for a fiery snack? Pepper's of Key West carries 500-plus varieties of hot sauce, nearly a quarter of which can be sampled at the complimentary tasting bar. "Originally, we catered to 'chiliheads,'" says current owner Pete Legrady, "but we also carry an assortment of sweet gourmet sauces and high-end barbecue, and we ship to Australia as easily as Ohio."

4. Take It Slow in the Dry Tortugas Ponce de Leon named this cluster of arid islands nearly 70 miles west of Key West after the numerous sea turtles, or tortugas, he found here. Today, Dry Tortugas National Park attracts visitors who arrive by ferry, high-speed catamaran, and seaplane. Activities include camping by prearrangement next to Fort Jefferson on Garden Key (the largest brick structure in the hemisphere—built by the U.S. Army, used as a prison after the Civil War, and abandoned in 1874), bird-watching, and some of the best snorkeling in the area for viewing the underwater ecosystem of the Keys.

5. Pay a Visit to Papa "He was inspired by the magic and energy of the island, as well as the unpretentious atmosphere," says Dave Gonzales, tour guide at the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. Papa lived in the house at 907 Whitehead Street for the better part of a decade. Attractions include the writing studio (complete with his Royal portable typewriter) in which he wrote four books and many of his short stories, as well as about 60 cats (descendants of the original six-toed cat he received as a gift). The first place Hemingway stayed in Key West, Casa Antigua Hotel at 314 Simonton Street, is now a private home.

6. Buy Island-Inspired Goods Key West Aloe is famous for its cosmetics, fragrances, and skin care products made from tropical ingredients such as frangipani, papaya, and coconut. Cuban immigrants Roberto and Margarita Lopez founded Kino Sandals in 1966; earthy smells still pervade the factory today, as sandaleros assemble the footwear by hand from natural leather and rubber. Even more intriguing is the story of Jack and Liliane Anderson, who crossed the Atlantic from France in their sailboat and founded the Local Color boutique. "We make crafts and clothing that reflect the unique lifestyle of the island," says their son Jesse. Local Color's four outlets feature lightweight linen apparel and jewelry made with Larimar, a gemstone native to the Caribbean.

FAST FACTS The continental U.S.A.'s southernmost city was discovered by Ponce de Leon in 1513, became a Spanish colony, and was deeded to the U.S. in the 1800s. The Conch Republic is closer to Havana than it is to Miami, both geographically and culturally. You can explore by foot, bike, or rented scooter.

Published in the January/February 2009 issue of National Geographic Traveler.