Published: November/December 2009DESTINATION SCORECARD
133 Places Rated: Africa
Photo: Kenya
Elephants young and old gather at water holes in Kenya's Masai Mara reserve.
Text by Jay Walljasper
Photo by Kevin Arnold

Ethiopia: Lalibela and Rock-Hewn Churches
Score: 52

"The least known marvel of the world," Lalibela was a New Jerusalem for Ethiopian Christians in the 1100s. Today, tourist facilities are primitive, erosion is a threat, and locals have little encouragement to protect the heritage. However, the 11 churches are "spectacular."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Lalibela is a fascinating place, as is all of Ethiopia, but the culture needs to benefit more from tourism. When I was at Lalibela, the condition of the structures was relatively good, but they were getting ready to make some changes to accommodate tourism—for better or for worse—which I haven't seen. There was almost no information available about the rock-hewn churches or about site protection, and tourists were free to wander, touch, etc."

"This may be the least-known and -visited marvel in the world. This is just as well, as its carrying capacity is quite limited. The churches are spectacular, but the overall experience has some unpleasant elements, including unaggressive but persistent hassling, poor waste management, and uncertain benefits to the community. The EU recently placed large but fairly unobtrusive roofs over the major churches, which is encouraging. Further hope lies in a major effort by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, with World Bank funding, set to begin later this year."

"Very interesting site, but it is threatened by modern development and use. One of the most important sites in Africa from an architectural point of view. Local communities use it, which any conservation plan has to take into consideration. The fabric of the buildings is under threat. There is a need for management plan to reconcile the various demands on the site. Excellent site to visit."

"Primitive tourism facilities, and tour companies often bring their own toilets. But the destination has huge potential as an international draw."

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