Published: November/December 2009DESTINATION SCORECARD
133 Places Rated: Middle East
Photo: Petra
The rooftop of Al Deir (the Monastery) in Petra offers a grand view.
Text by Jay Walljasper
Photo by Annie Griffiths Belt

Egypt: Luxor (Thebes, Valley of the Kings)
Score: 48

An archaeological wonder on the Nile that suffers an invasion of tour buses, "misguided" management, and "commercial exploitation." Overcrowding has deflated the score by 10 points since 2006. However, some panelists find "seeds of hope." The "government is working hard to develop a more professional management plan."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"A few years ago I considered it catastrophic. Since then, some even more catastrophic things have happened in terms of the authenticity of the sites. Extreme excavation in the Valley of Kings, decimation of the urban core of Luxor, demolition of the old town of Gurna, destruction of 19th-century buildings along the waterfront on the East Bank. I have never seen a more misguided policy. But there has also been progress. The "dewatering project" has lowered the water table around the monuments, and they look significantly healthier. The government is aware of the importance of these monuments and is working hard to develop a more professional management for the area. All in all, not a good score, and a very dynamic situation, but therein lie seeds of hope."

"Zahi Hawass [Secretary General of the Egypt's Supreme Council of Antiquities] and his team are doing an amazing job of sustaining the fragile sites. Ground transportation and visitor management need improvement. Harassment by local retailers within the site confines is prevalent."

"Great archaeological heritage; protection of integrity is improving. Culture is under siege from Western tourists. Tourism development is mediocre, but new visitor centers under development should help. Information at the sites is quite limited—local guides and guidebooks a must. Stewardship has not been a priority in the past, but this is changing—still lots of problems with local corruption and "guards" encouraging misuse of resources."

"Best experienced without an air-conditioned bus. In fact, buses into the Valley should be limited, as the entire experience is ruined by too many bus-tour groups. Their impact on the local economy is limited, as they do not tend to support local business. The cost to enter museums and monuments is very small in comparison to many other sites around the world. The government should seek to increase these fees to ensure that re-investment in the sites is appropriate. This is a place where there is a danger of tourism outrunning preservation."

Egypt: Pyramids, Giza
Score: 45

Egypt's government deserves praise for "preservation work," although visitors confront "lots of trash," hawkers, and crowds. Needs a better management strategy; improved interpretive information is planned for a new visitors center.

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Undergoing major work. Sites still face the usual issue of overcrowding. The archaeological and preservation work of the Egyptian government is to be commended. Major issues are trash in the ostensibly closed areas, ongoing deterioration of the Sphinx, and an inadequate museum for the Cheops Boat next to the Great Pyramid. The encroachment of the nearby community detracts from the environmental and social/cultural integrity."

"Once you recover from how close the pyramids are to the city, it is a truly spectacular visit. There is scope to more actively encourage a culture of care from visitors."

"The pyramids and the sphinx are stunning. Disappointing are the local hawkers of touristic junk and the amount of garbage laying about, especially in Giza. This feels like a location that, with a small amount of effort and investment, could radically change the experience for the better."

"Newly implemented protection measures—including the elimination of cars and hawkers from the plateau—should provide better protection for resources and facilitate a better tourist experience. Unclear how displaced locals will benefit from tourism now that contact on the plateau is limited."

Egypt: Northern Red Sea Coast
Score: 41

"Shabby mediocre resorts" abound in this area that is subject to "chaotic development." Urban sprawl is imminent. Coral reefs are being destroyed. But new ecolodges are offering a bit of hope for this "gorgeous" place.

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Great ecological features little appreciated by tourists. The Nature Conservation Service is making great strides in resource protection for the four protected areas; but interpretation is lacking. Guides have little knowledge about ecological resources, and misuse of desert resources is (unfortunately) common. Tourism development is high, although most is mass-tourism oriented. Jewels like Basata and the Al Karm ecolodge can be found. Stewardship of the natural environment is not a broadly held value yet."

"The once peaceful fishing town of Hurghada is now a tightly compacted, high-rise urban maze like Cairo. Sharm el Sheikh's beautiful setting is monopolized by look-alike hotels and occasional political unrest."

"Unique and fragile assets. Some areas suffer negative impacts from mass tourism. Ecotourism and safaris are growing in the region, with great potential for local communities, but threats and pressures on the fragile assets remain. One of the positive impacts of tourism is the involvement of local Bedouin tribes."

"Total disregard for averting tourist impact on the coral-reef ecosystems."

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