Bow River
An 1880s railroad town and tourist destination from the start, Banff (tel. +1 403 762 8421) lies along the Bow River in a broad valley ringed with forested peaks that dwarf a crush of hotels, restaurants, and shops. The dense evergreen trees, swift blue waters of the Bow, and an abundance of bike trails, picnic spots, and footpaths mitigate the traffic and help Banff avoid the carnival air that can mar national park gateways.
Whyte Museum
For a quick summary of Banff's human history, visit the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies (111 Bear St; tel. +1 403 762 2291; $6), which bridges the 10,000-year gulf between those who hunted huge Pleistocene mountain sheep with chert spears and the Victorian gents who tackled the same peaks in waistcoats and ties. Nearby, western Canada's oldest natural history museum, the rustic 1903 Banff Park Museum (91 Banff Ave; tel. +1 403 762 1558; fee) remains true to its era with stuffed specimens of moose, bears, bison, foxes, and dozens of birds displayed in elegant glass-fronted cabinets.
Banff Museums and Natural Sites
Across the river stands the park's administration building, a noble stone facade reminiscent of an English country house and surrounded by expansive lawns, rock grottoes, and terraced gardens. While you're in the area, stop at the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum (1 Birch Ave.; tel. +1 403 762 2388; fee) to admire the handiwork of various native peoples. Next, follow Cave Avenue west through the forest to the birthplace of Canada's national park system, Cave and Basin National Historic Site (tel. +1 403 762 1566; fee), where two hot springs bubble to the surface—one inside a cave, the other nestled against the hillside—both within a restored 1914 native stone bathing complex. Duck through a low tunnel into the cave, with its wide pool of clear sulfurous water. Admire the view from the reflecting pond, and peer into the colorful waters of the basin. Exhibits explain how this compelling spot led to the establishment of Banff.
Upper Hot Springs
Since swimming is no longer allowed at Cave and Basin, follow Mountain Avenue to Upper Hot Springs (tel. +1 403 762 1515; fee), where a historic stone bathhouse and outdoor pool face the tilted gray slabs of Mount Rundle. Nearby, the Sulphur Mountain gondola (tel. +1 403 762 2523; call for schedule, fare) climbs 2,292 vertical feet (698 meters) to a summit restaurant, trails, and knockout alpine vistas.
Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel
Back in Banff, follow Banff Avenue across the bridge to Spray Avenue, then drive up to the 1928 Fairmont Banff Springs hotel (405 Spray Ave.; tel. +1 403 762 2211; fee for tours, offered daily in summer excluding Sundays). Pick up a map in the lobby and wander through this colossal stone palace—rustic, elegant, and a bit medieval. In 1941 a week of room, board, and golf, plus a round-trip first-class train ticket from San Francisco, cost $145.75.
