Crowned with a sky so wide that it threatens to define infinity, the Big Bend region of Texas is situated roughly west of San Antonio, east of El Paso, and north of the mythic Rio Grande river. It remains one of the last true frontiers in the lower 48, a landscape unique in the world.

Overview
Home to Big Bend National Park and the adjoining Big Bend Ranch State Park, this borderland is characterized by rugged mountain ranges, grassland, and immense tracts of desert. The region's exotic qualities has long attracted Hollywood: Recent films No Country For Old Men and There Will Be Blood were filmed in the area, and the landscape prompted one 1930s inhabitant to call it "America's Abyssinia," perhaps for the African-style terrain and abundant wildlife. The route starts in the oil town of Fort Stockton, continues to Alpine—gateway to Big Bend National Park—and through Paisano Pass to the quirky town of Marfa. From here it threads south past the ghost town of Shafter into the border town of Presidio, then continues along scenic River Road (FM-170) through Terlingua to Study Butte. Turning onto Hwy. 118/Maverick Road, the drive unspools into that Texas jewel, Big Bend National Park. From here choices include detours to Chisos, a not-to-miss mountain chain, and the funky old cattle town of Marathon.

Start in Fort Stockton
An oil town, Fort Stockton has so far thrived despite the ups and downs of commodity prices. The site of a fort established in 1858 to protect travelers and settlers in Comanche territory—reconstructed fort buildings are open to visitors—the town serves as a base for day trips into Big Bend country, which includes Carlsbad Caverns and Davis Mountain.

Alpine
From Fort Stockton, head west on Interstate 10, then exit to continue south on 67 before heading west on Hwy. 90 into the town of Alpine. The region's hub and a gateway to Big Bend National Park, Alpine is ringed by mountains and possesses the highest number of historic adobe structures in Texas outside of El Paso (found mostly on Alpine's Southside). The traditional Mexican neighborhood is being revived by big city refugees, like Cristina Sousa and Vic Noriega, opening emporia such as the Murphy St. Raspa Company (100 W. Murphy St.; www.raspaland.com). The store specializes in raspas, or Mexican snow cones, and such hard-to-find Mexican imports as clay figurines and typical candies that evoke the cultural pride of a resurgent community. On the campus of Sul Ross State University, the recently redone Museum of the Big Bend (www.sulross.edu/~museum) features exhibits on the entire region, including displays of fossils and photography. Eats in Alpine include the Trattoria (901 E. Holland Ave.; www.latrattoriacafe.com), a rustic Italian restaurant specializing in pasta dishes and thin-crust pizzas; and Alicia's (708 E. Gallego Ave.), which serves stuffed breakfast burritos named after local patrons (try "the Dude"). Those keen to do as the locals do should join Alpine's boot-clad lawyers and ranchers for a bourbon at Reata (203 N. 5th St.; www.reata.net).