Marfa
Leaving Alpine toward the west on Hwy. 90, cruise through photogenic Paisano Pass, dotted with juniper shrubs and dark outcroppings—the remains of an ancient volcano caldera. When you reach a grassy plateau, you're approaching the Marfa Lights Viewing Stand, a modern building where visitors can look for the legendary floating spheres known as the Marfa lights. The town of Marfa has garnered attention for turning the Minimalist art movement into a design aesthetic embraced by artists and writers who have come here to live and work. Still, it's the Hotel Paisano (207 N. Highland Ave.; www.hotelpaisano.com), an ornate Spanish Revival oasis and state historic landmark that offers the coolest respite from the West Texas sun: James Dean and Liz Taylor stayed here during the making of the 1956 epic film Giant. Another highlight here is the Chinati Foundation (1 Calvary Row; www.chinati.org), which was founded by modern sculptor Donald Judd to showcase his work—a spare arrangement of massive blocks of aluminum and stone.

The Food Shark
For decent grub, try the Food Shark, an RV dishing up Middle Eastern lunches across from the Marfa Book Company store (101 S. Highland Ave.; www.marfabookco.com). More sophisticated fare is found at Cochineal (109 W. San Antonio St.) and Blue Javelina (1300 W. San Antonio St.), both run by former New York chefs.

Shafter
Proceed south on Hwy. 67 toward the border town of Presidio, passing the ghost town of Shafter, nestled at the start of the Chinati Mountains. In the 1880s, silver was discovered here, leading to the establishment of the Presidio Mining Company. Now the town is deserted, its buildings abandoned to the wind—though day-trippers stop by to see the evocative ruins.