Penn Yan
Fox Run Vineyards (670 Rte. 14, Penn Yan; www.foxrunvineyards.com), on Seneca Lake's western shore, offers tours as well as tastings. "Wine is a mystery to a lot of people," says Fox Run owner Scott Osborn. "It's important for them to see the grapes on the vine." Osborn shows off his entire operation, from grafting to bottling. He's especially proud of his French oak barrels. "They're made by hand, by traditional coopers. A new one costs over $700." South of Penn Yan and just east of Keuka Lake, the Windmill Farm & Craft Market (3900 Rte. 14A, Penn Yan; www.thewindmill.com) rambles through 26 acres (11 hectares) and four buildings like a big state fair—with all the exhibits for sale. Recommended: Stoltzfus Bakery's Pennsylvania Dutch shoofly pies.

Himrod
Miles Wine Cellars (168 Randall Crossing Rd., Himrod; www.mileswinecellars.com) has the most serenely gorgeous setting of any winery in the region. Co-owners Doug Miles and Suzy Hayes greet visitors, some of whom arrive by boat, in a chaste white temple of a house overlooking Seneca Lake. It's picture-book Greek Revival ... and it's haunted. "Clairvoyants have come by and said we had seven ghosts," says Miles. More important, he's seen two—a young man and woman, on the porch. Spooks aside, Miles makes a terrific Pinot Noir, and a chocolatey, smoky Cabernet Franc. But he just had to name one of his wines Ghost—it's a refreshing white with a label depicting the ectoplasmic pair.

End at Hammondsport
Hammondsport, with a lovely town green and a public beach on Keuka, harbors two of the Finger Lakes' finest wineries. At Château Renaissance Wine Cellars (7494 Hatchery Rd.; www.winesparkle.com), French émigré Patrice DeMay's offerings include a sophisticated Merlot; a sherry with butterscotch tones; and champagnes whose recipes have been in DeMay's Loire Valley family for 400 years. DeMay loves the terroir that his 17 acres (7 hectares) of grapes inhabit. "A French word," he explains. "It's hard to translate. It's not just the land, but the air, the vegetation, the water, the wild local yeasts." Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars (9749 Middle Rd.; www.drfrankwines.com) honor the man who introduced true European vinifera wine grapes to upstate New York. Located in the late doctor's white farmhouse, the company's tasting room is one of the region's busiest, thanks to the superb Riesling and Gewurztraminer varietals that grow just across the road, on slopes high above Keuka Lake.

Road Kit
For general information, visit www.fingerlakes.org. Details on specific wine routes in the region are at www.cayugawinetrail.com.