Savor the bayou folkways of 19th-century writer Kate Chopin and 20th-century folk artist Clementine Hunter.
In late afternoon, live oaks and magnolias cast shadows along the Cane River Lake and its shores just south of Natchitoches (NAK-a-tish) in north-central Louisiana. This is deep Creole country, with a culture that derives from early inhabitants who were gens de couleur libres (free people of color); their ancestors hailed from French settlers and African slaves. The various landmarks here constitute the Cane River National Heritage Area, also known as Cane River Road. Families by the name of Métoyer and Roque still inhabit Isle Brevelle—a large tract of land between the Cane River area and Bayou Brevelle—which has been a Creole community since the 1700s. More than 18 historic Creole structures mark the winding byways on this small island. Many are raised cottages made with bousillage fill (mud, Spanish moss, straw), some sporting Caribbean and French colonial-style architecture, with wraparound galleries and hipped roofs. Rural Cloutierville was once home to 19th-century author Kate Chopin, who wrote about Louisiana's Creole world in such works as The Awakening and A Night in Acadie. On winter evenings, the light just so, the water shimmers through moss-draped evergreens in this forgotten land, reflecting images of antebellum plantations, antiquated cotton gins and country stores, and 150-year-old homes and churches.
Overview
The route, known as the Cane River Road, is a 70-mile loop through north-central Louisiana's Creole Country, starting and ending in Natchitoches and interlacing several state highways: 494, 119, 484, 493, and 1. The labyrinth of tiny highways is linked by truss bridges and riverfront communities that connect 10 historic plantations—and cradle a unique culture. The route is a haunting shape-shifter, splintering into paths toward small crossroad communities and offbeat sights. You could wander here for days, stopping at all the sites, or make the loop in one long day, simply driving and looking. Even locals never tire of the scenery. "That little bend in the river, across the bridge from Melrose and down past St. Augustine Church," says Natchitoches Times editor Carolyn Roy, "is just so picturesque. The water is calm and serene, and, I think, reflects the nature of the Creole people."
Start in Natchitoches
Established by the French in 1714 and the oldest permanent settlement in the Louisiana Purchase, Natchitoches today encompasses a National Landmark Historic District featuring some 100 historical structures, including three forts, mercantile buildings, and house museums. The setting for the 1989 movie Steel Magnolias, this town was named a "Distinctive Destination" by the National Trust of Historic Preservation in 2005 and is known as the B&B capital of Louisiana. Attractions here include the Fort Jesup Historic Site, established in the early 1800s by Lieutenant Colonel Zachary Taylor, who went on to become the 12th president of the United States; Alligator Park, five acres of habitat for this magnificent American reptile; and the colonial Fort St. Jean Baptiste.
Oaklawn, Cherokee, and Beaufort Plantations
Take Route 1 south from Natchitoches then 494 east toward Natchez. Within a few minutes you should reach the first of three privately owned (not open to the public), scenic plantation homes: Oaklawn, a 19th-century white-columned residence visible at the end of one of the longest oak allées in the state. A little farther along sits Cherokee Plantation, named for the Cherokee roses planted out front. Its simple, low-slung profile is typical of early French plantation homes, as are its three barns. Next on the route: Beaufort, owned at one time by Narcisse Prud'homme II, master of more than 100 slaves.
