The snow-topped peaks of the Olympics are a mercurial sight from Seattle, vanishing in fog and rain only to reappear again when the skies clear. First explored by non-natives only in 1890, when a Seattle newspaper sent an expedition across Puget Sound to do so, the Olympics and their peninsula of 3,600 square miles are still surprisingly, romantically wild. Even now no roads traverse the interior, which remains a redoubt of elk and old-growth forest, protected by Olympic National Park and the rugged, saw-toothed peaks of the Olympic Range.

Overview
Enter the loop highway, 101, at its junction with 104, then follow it for 330 miles around the peninsula counterclockwise via Port Angeles to Aberdeen; take Highway 12 inland to just west of Olympia, then follow 101 north to complete the loop along the Hood Canal.

Start in Seattle
Cross the Hood Canal Bridge to reach the Olympic Peninsula, connect with 101, then quickly turn right on Highway 20 for a quick detour to Port Townsend. It's "the most sophisticated place west of Seattle," known for its Victorian architecture, art galleries, and wine bars, says one resident. Back on 101, proceed toward Sequim. As you approach this small town surrounded by lavender farms and clusters of retirees' RVs, you'll come inside the peninsula's rain shadow—in which the mountains to the west drain the Pacific storms, leaving clear skies. Watch for views of the peaks, an alpine watercolor framed by your windshield. Stop for a bite at Sawadee Thai Cuisine (271 S. 7th St., Sequim; +1 360 683 8188), which bustles with locals hungering for fresh curries.

The Dungeness Spit
Beyond Sequim, turn north to see the Dungeness Spit, one of the world's longest natural sand spits. The area was declared a national wildlife refuge in 1915 because of the abundance of bird species—over 250—that you find here, making it a bird-watcher's paradise.

Port Angeles
A bit father along 101, as you continue moving counterclockwise around the northeast corner of the peninsula, you reach Port Angeles. This coastal logging town at the doorstep of Olympic National Park offers a possible side trip: From here you can catch the ferry over to the wonderfully British city of Victoria on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. But there's plenty to see on this side of the Strait of Juan de Fuca as well. Stay overnight and enjoy the gourmet breakfast at the Domaine Madeleine (146 Wildflower La., Port Angeles; 888 811 8376; www.domainemadeleine.com), an elegant B&B. Take a day trip out to Hurricane Ridge, which offers a panoramic view of snowy peaks, probably the best views of the park available by road. "We like being at the ends of the Earth here," says one Port Angeles resident. "Where else in the world do you have this beautiful coastline, mountains, and glaciers?"