Published: July/August 2005 National Park Destinations Rated: Rocky Mountains, U.S. and Canada

Panelists exchanged comments, which were kept anonymous to maintain survey neutrality during the rating process. These excerpts offer a glimpse of panelists' varied points of view and the reasoning behind each score. They are not the views of the National Geographic Society.

Arches & Canyonlands National Parks, UTAH
Score 62

These "well-managed" desert parks are "among the most beautiful destinations in the world and the most challenged," with Arches the more crowded by far. The gateway to both parks, Moab, "has gone through a tremendous metamorphosis" from mining town to recreation center, complete with worrisome off-road sports.

"Arches is more visited. Canyonlands is more pristine and remote."

"Moab, the gateway city, has gone through a tremendous metamorphosis; most of the old mining-town image has been replaced by modern urbana."

"The still largely magnificent and untrammeled backcountry in Arches and Canyonlands is threatened by dramatic shifts toward industrial tourism. Tourism limits or mass transportation should be considered at Arches."

"The appealing wild west beauty of towns like Moab, Green River, Blanding, Monticello, or Bluff is giving way to hotel chains, fast foods and inauthentic souvenir shops."

"Spectacular yet fragile area, with serious off-road use issues."

"Due to the sensitivity of the soils, the area is very easily impacted by visitors and is very difficult to restore [to good] ecological conditions."

"The National Parks Conservation Association's State of the Parks report for Canyonlands shows that it has some of the darkest night skies in the National Park System in the lower 48 states and some of the lowest levels of ambient noise. Seventy-one percent of the park's historic structures are suffering from structural deterioration. Without action, many of these could be lost in the next two to five years. Non-native tamarisk chokes rivers and riparian areas, and non-native fish have taken over the park's rivers. Oil and gas production outside the park could threaten the park's renowned natural quiet, dark night skies, and unparalleled view sheds."

"Moab is an unfortunate example of gateway community sprawl. Look for it to get worse rather than better."

Banff National Park, ALBERTA
Score 55

Canada's oldest, most popular park still retains wonderful beauty and backcountry, but a park-piercing transportation corridor disrupts mammal migrations, facilitates crowding, and spurs gateway growth. Probably no Canadian park is more studied and debated: "Beautiful, ecologically resilient, and facing extreme challenges, which do seem to drive innovative efforts towards sustainability."

"Banff is a wonderful paradox: aesthetically beautiful, ecologically resilient, and facing extreme social and ecological challenges."

"Current planning and management efforts now strive for sustainability, particularly in the case of Banff townsite/municipal government via the Banff Community Plan."

"The major issue for Banff is external—managing growth in the Bow River Valley."

"Most of the park is unspoiled, but there is extensive and inappropriate development in the rare riparian habitat in and near the Banff townsite. Also, the trans-Canada highway occupies a large amount of this critical habitat, detracts from the scenery, and results in a large amount of roadkill."

"There are a few common threads: the commercialization, the highway and railway, heavy summer crowding, as well as honest attempts to deal with these issues through planning and restrictions."

Big Bend National Park, TEXAS
Score 69

Far from almost everywhere, Big Bend suffers from both U.S. and Mexican air pollution as well as sharply lower levels in the Rio Grande. Otherwise, a winner: "Not overused by hordes of visitors. The most natural park I've visited." "Authentic, unspoiled." "The gateways of Terlingua and Lajitas tend toward a Western movie set, but not excessively."

"Recent tightening of border security diminishes the social experience, although many historical features remain worthy attractions. Chisos Basin is somewhat overdeveloped, but this sacrifice probably preserves wild character elsewhere."

"Air quality in this national park is declining rapidly due to emissions from both sides of the border."

"Issues of illegal immigration, drug trade routes, and poverty need to be considered in its future development."

"The gateway communities are very small and have great character. The wildlife populations are doing well, as is the vegetation. It's a very positive visitor experience."

Black Canyon Of The Gunnison National Park, COLORADO
Score 65

Vistas let you "see simultaneously the snowcapped Colorado peaks and hot deserts below" in this uncrowded, out-of-the-way park. "Land, air, and water unspoiled." Well, maybe not water for long: Panelists sharply criticize federal plans to cede Gunnison River water rights for development use, damaging canyon ecology.

"Awesome views enable a visitor to simultaneously see the snow-capped Colorado peaks and hot deserts below."

"The surrounding communities are all small yet appear to be relatively prepared for increased visitation."

"Public land managers and local counties and municipalities in this area need to collaborate much more effectively."

"The surrender of federal water rights and the potential for water diversion poses a grave threat to the integrity of this natural area."

Bryce Canyon National Park, UTAH
Score 65

Great hiking and geology in the park—"still a magical fairyland"—but several reviewers dislike tacky gateway towns: "junky, overstressed, and unappealing for many miles." Others cite a park/locals disconnect, with tourism jobs few and jobholders "not very concerned about park environment."

"Bryce is one of those Utah wonderlands—the front country is crowded and the overlooks are a mess, but the backcountry canyons and washes are among the most beautiful."

"A shuttle system initiated in 2000 could benefit from a better-identified contact area outside the park."

"In summer and early fall, Bryce can be crowded (almost like Disneyland), and the development at the park's gateway detracts from the special quality of the place."

"The area needs better, more attractive, and eco-friendly lodging."

"Inside the park it is still a magical fairyland."

"Location of park downwind of Vegas and energy development areas gives rise to concern about future integrity of natural systems and visibility."

"People feed the birds and chipmunks until they are fat as little furry dough-boys."

Carlsbad Caverns National Park, NEW MEXICO
Score 53

Panelists split on Carlsbad's tourist sections, from "good visitor control and education" to "significant formation damage" and "a case study in placing visitor use above sustainability. Shameful." Above ground, the park draws praise, the gateways criticism—"glitzy tourist attractions unsuited to the landscape."

"The surrounding community has developed into glitzy tourist attractions not at all suited to the landscape."

"The visitor cave complex is highly developed, and is no more natural than a shopping mall."

"Cave is well interpreted but I'd like to see more emphasis on the land above."

"It gets almost as noisy in the Big Room as it does at an Angels game. Use the Natural Entrance Route instead of the elevator if you want to get at least some of the 'cave experience.'"

Chaco Culture National Historic Park, NEW MEXICO
Score 72

The long, unpaved access road pleased panelists by keeping this archaeologically rich site untrampled. "Its remote location means Chaco Canyon remains a relatively genuine experience. It is still possible to envision the Anasazi life and find quiet moments of solitude." Caveat: "Nearby town is incredibly littered."

"An archaeological pearl. Environmental and ecological quality appear to be sustained as well as possible considering mineral exploration, development, and grazing impacts on adjacent lands."

"A truly unique and moving place; there is an almost intangible power to the landscape. It's hard to reach and there are few nearby amenities. Keep it that way."

"It is still possible to envision the Anasazi life and find quiet moments of solitude. On the other hand, the environment is so fragile that any increase in visitors could be a harsh blow if not well-monitored and controlled."

"This is a very special place ecologically, archaeologically, and culturally. Its remoteness is a plus. It probably does not have the resources to deal with increased visitation."

Glacier National Park, MONTANA
Score 66

Glacier draws praise for scenery, ecological integrity, and its historic open-top red buses. Needed restoration has begun for the Depression-era lodge buildings and the oft-crowded, crumbling Going-to-the-Sun Road. Typically, panelists fret about global warming: "What will Glacier be called when there are no longer any glaciers?" Also,"the area around the park needs sprucing up."

"The National Parks Conservation Association's "State of the Parks" assessment for Glacier documents an exceptionally large number of external threats to the park, including: proposed highway expansion, conversion of ranch and forest lands to commercial and residential developments, clear cutting forests, a growing number of low-level and noisy sightseeing air tours over the park, invasions of non-native species, and potential extraction of coal, oil, and gas resources. Due to global warming, all 37 named glaciers in the park have receded since the mid-19th century, and less than one-third of glaciers present in 1850 exist today."

"Glacier has struggled with plans to repair the Going-to-the-Sun road."

"Environmental quality is maintained at a relatively high level. The level of tourism development is moderate for such an outstanding park."

"The number one problem facing Glacier is the spreading of noxious weeds. Also, the continued harassment of overflights that impact wildlife and diminish the quality of visitor experiences."

"Most of the areas surrounding the park are depressed and consist of low-grade tourist attractions. Farther away, cities such as Kalispell and Glacier do benefit from the park, but the small towns at the park's entrances offer only low-paying jobs with no future."

"Tourism development inside the park is appropriate in scale and character, but increasingly there is tourism development of inappropriate character outside the park."

"Tourism development in the gateway communities is tasteful and in harmony with the character of the park. However, population growth pressure, poor growth management strategies, and inappropriate energy extraction schemes outside the park pose significant long-term threats to the integrity of the park."

"In the main visitor season it is often impossible to find a trailhead or viewpoint parking. This park cries out for better public transportation."

Jasper National Park, ALBERTA
Score 71

"Wide-open vistas, with sweeping landscapes" characterize the biggest of the Canadian Rockies parks—"a gorgeous treasure." "The town is authentic, tourist-tack at a minimum." Panelists differ on the park's ecological health. Several criticize Alberta's forestry, drilling, and mining activities next door.

"High quality natural and aesthetic environment, rich and varied wildlife viewing. Less developed townsite than Banff, with a more 'local' feel."

"In many ways the greatest Canadian Rocky Mountain park. Large and wild."

"The greatest threats to Jasper are the ongoing developments in the regions of Alberta adjacent to the park (forestry, oil and gas, mining)."

"High ecological integrity, but the Athabasca Valley and Columbia Icefields area have been heavily developed, not always appropriately."

Mesa Verde National Park, COLORADO
Score 63

Panelists disagree on Mesa Verde's condition, from "well-managed" and "marvelous interpretive walks" to "serious wildfire problems and damage; archaeological heritage in danger; reduced aesthetic appeal." The gateway, Cortez, "has a true Western feel."

"Too little funding restricts the park's capability to maintain the ruins. The world-class artifact collection is poorly housed in an old temporary building."

"Owing to serious wildfire problems and damage over the past decade or more, the environmental and ecological qualities of the park have been compromised. The condition of built heritage, especially archaeological, is in danger."

"Park authorities must continue to guard against the threat of visitor numbers. Long waits are better than damage/destruction of priceless heritage."

"For a park of such significance—and a World Heritage Site—the facilities of Mesa Verde are pretty shabby."

"Cortez as a gateway still has a true western feel."

"I was appalled to see two billboards on adjacent Native American lands facing into the park."

Rocky Mountain National Park, COLORADO
Score 56

"Deep blue glacial lakes and majestic mountain views" in a
"totally overstressed" park. "Traffic, condo developments, and noise around the sappy, touristy town of Estes Park lessen appeal."

"Attempts to better-manage traffic flow to and from Bear Lake are critical to protecting the high country landscape, but will quieter and less-polluting shuttles or masses of cars dominate the road after reconstruction? Estes Park, of course, continues to exemplify what gateway communities should avoid."

"Another crowded, well-loved park that tells the story of its physical grandeur with minor attention to the peoples who once inhabited it."

"Neighboring communities are becoming overcrowded and geared mainly to serving the tourist trade. This is robbing them of their authentic character."

"The National Parks Conservation Association's State of the Park assessment shows that the park's top predators are gone, which has led to very high elk populations and overgrazing of certain plant communities important to beaver and other species. Decades of fire suppression have caused a great increase in fuel loads. Nonnative species edge out many native species. Visibility in the park is somewhat impaired 90 percent of the time, although views still can be dramatic."

Waterton Lakes National Park, ALBERTA
Score 72

Bordering Montana's Glacier National Park, Waterton rates high for nature and management. "A nice mix of front-country and backcountry opportunities. Visitor services are in harmony with the character of the park." Nearby lands, though, are threatened by subdivisions, logging, mining, and drilling.

"The town of Waterton is touristy in content, but still reads like a quite dignified Victorian resort community."

"Waterton Lakes is relatively unknown given its fabulous alpine resource. It is one of the most scenic areas in Canada."

"Cute, windy, and international. The area gives visitors a chance to enjoy it without being disturbed. The logging and the infrastructure are well hidden from the main viewpoints."

"Certainly some ongoing concerns with subdivisions and ski resort development in neighboring areas."

"Visitor services in Waterton town site are largely in harmony with the character of the park."

Yellowstone/Grand Teton National Parks, IDAHO, MONTANA, WYOMING
Score 51

"Yellowstone, our oldest national park, faces some of the most serious threats—water quality, erosion, overuse, wildlife issues. The local community is informed and supportive" except perhaps for the controversial snowmobile proponents, lambasted by many panelists, with a minority mildly dissenting. "Teton is in better shape than Yellowstone, but both are overrun" except for Yellowstone's big backcountry.

"From bison and elk management to snowmobile use and airport runway expansion, these parks face myriad challenges."

"The landscape, the peoples, and the story of their influence in creating the national park system still rings in our ears, despite snowmobiles, RV crowds, and diesel fumes."

"Eliminate snowmobiling. Snow machines pack trails in the high mountains. Coyotes and wolves now use these travel ways to access prey such as goats and mule deer that used to be protected by deep snow."

"Jackson Hole and other communities seem to be thriving, but sprawling across the unprotected land."

"Yellowstone is increasingly confronted by a wide variety of conflicting interests and concerns, including snowmobile management, endangered species, and appropriate levels of development."

"I was surprised that the town outside the park didn't have more to offer than T-shirt shops and bad cafes."

"Threats to the ecosystem, ranging from the development of private lands to the introduction of lake trout in Yellowstone Lake, show that acreage alone is not enough to ensure an area's sustainability."

"The environmental and ecological quality is excellent beyond the front country, but suspect in the front country. It is very difficult to keep three million visitors on the boardwalks!"

"Teton is doing better than Yellowstone, even with the highway and airport. The proposed snowmobile compromise was a good one—keep the Skidoos on the trails by forcing them to go with outfitters."

Zion National Park, UTAH
Score 68

"The lodge is beautiful and the canyon spectacular." Most panelists concurred but split on Zion's gateway region, precluding a top score. The park's relationship with the adjacent town of Springdale received much praise—"outstanding example of a gateway that tries to be part of the park experience"—as did the free propane shuttle buses into the park. But a minority disagreed. One called Springdale "horrible." Combine that with the bus ride and the experience can "feel more like Disneyland than a national park."

"Springdale is one of the outstanding examples of a gateway community that tries to be part of the park experience, and recognizes that a sound local economy can be enhanced by managing scenic impacts and maintaining community character compatible with park values."

"Very high environmental quality and aesthetic appeal. The restriction on private autos in the canyon has improved the visitor experience immeasurably."

"Zion must identify new ways to work with out-of-control Springdale development and high visitor use, but it appears the park is making tough decisions to improve the overall quality."

"Truly amazing landscape. However it was the wonderful transit system that really impressed me. I just loved the quiet clean nature of accessing the main valley."

"An example of how even parks with enormous visitation can remain visitor-friendly and untouched at the same time."

"The gateway towns are attractive but lack a cultural appeal."