Istanbul clings to its ancient past as it surges into the future as a modern metropolis.
In the July/August 2006 issue of Traveler, Raphael Kadushin visits Istanbul, the fast-growing Turkish city sprawling across two continents. A perennial boomtown, Istanbul welcomes some 400,000 migrants each year.
48 Hours in Istanbul
Text by Raphael Kadushin
Istanbul clings to its ancient past and surges into the future as a modern metropolis.
A lot of cities grow quickly, but Istanbul, a perennial boomtown, is expanding faster than ever right now. In the past two years, more than 400,000 people have migrated to the city; every day hundreds of new cars appear on the roads; and every night an unknown number of brick houses pop up along the hills of the city.
"There is actually a Turkish word 'gecekondu' for these houses," says Elisabetta Campi Igmen, an Italian art historian who moved to Istanbul 15 years ago. "It means a shelter that is thrown up, a few stacked bricks at a time, between sunset and sunrise." While the gecekondu let newcomers settle in, Turkish law makes it hard to expel dwellers once they can claim something resembling a house in a city that changes shape literally overnight also confronts inevitable problems. Istanbul's marathon traffic jams and concrete block silhouettes have become a running local lament. But the city's growth, spurred by Turkeys hopes of joining the European Union, also represents a buoyant momentum that is turning Istanbul into a modern metropolis, and the signs are everywhere: In the new Istanbul Modern museum, along the streets of Beyoglu, and in a new generation of creative chefs and designers who are adept at updating tradition. That may be a local talent. A city that embraces three millennia of history and a succession of empires, from Roman to Byzantine to Ottoman, is used to adding new layers without losing its sense of the past. Witness the minarets still poking up among the skyscrapers, locals making their pilgrimage to a Turkish bath, and the timeless fishermen casting lines off the Galata Bridge.
Fast Facts
Istanbul is the only city in the world sprawling across two continents. To the east of the Bosporus Strait lies the city's Asian side. To the west is the European side&the half drawing most visitors, both for its Sultanahmet neighborhood, which encompasses the majority of Istanbul's historic landmarks, and for the thriving, 19th-century Beyoglu district, a hub of shops, nightclubs, and restaurants. Shuttling between these two areas can take time. The commuter ferries and seabuses that regularly crisscross the Bosporus are fastest and cheapest, but they won't always get you close enough to your final destination. Cabs will, though the traffic can turn even a short drive into a lengthy, pricey one (expect an hour or more and a minimum $20 fare if traveling during rush hour). Winters are relatively temperate, bottoming out at an average 40°F in January, while summer temperatures hover in the mild 70s.
Don't Miss
Sultanahmet's fame as the city's historic heart starts with the 17th-century Blue Mosque built by Sultan Ahmet I&hence the area's name. Just north, past vendors balancing stacks of fresh-baked pretzels on their heads, is the Hagia Sophia, which represents Istanbul's legacy of change. Dedicated as the largest Christian church in the world when it was opened in A.D. 537, subsequently turned into a mosque in 1453, and now functioning as a museum, the monument feels ancient. For more secular glamour, head just north of Sophia to Topkapi Palace, the sultans' residence and seat of the Ottoman empire, where almost every square inch of the pavilions and living quarters (including one ivory inlaid kiosk designed solely to store the sultan's turbans) are a frenzy of exquisite tile work. The Archaeological Museum, a complex of three museums, sits next to Topkapi Palace and offers one of the world's most underrated stockpiles of classical sculpture. To jump across the millennia, cross over to Beyoglu and visit Istanbul Modern, which opened in 2004 in a converted warehouse as a showcase for modern Turkish paintings.
There is nothing intercultural about another local Istanbul institution. "The hammam, or Turkish bath, is a cure for the body and soul," suggests museum curator Rosa Martinez, and the claim is played out at the 18th-century Cagaloglu Hamami. Lying on the marble plinth in the domed steam room is probably as close as you will come to taking a sauna in the Pantheon.
Shopping
The massive Grand Bazaar, in the Sultanahmet district, represents one of the world's first&and maybe still best&gallerias. The Byzantine maze of supposedly 4,000 shops is a landmark in its own right and its sheer beauty is only partially obscured by the vendors' incessant sales pitches. They really don't have to try so hard. It's difficult enough to resist the hand-painted ceramic tiles and plates at CS Iznik Nicaea Ceramics, or the embroidered silk and cotton Uzbekistan textiles at Doktor Antik. Even some of the creative kitsch is seductive, especially the plastic mosque alarm clocks and the twirling dervish music boxes. Rug shopping in the bazaar can mean something resembling a court-ship, so, unless you have lots of time, it's better to sample the variety of price-fixed shops nearby, like the Motif Collection, where owner Hamit Balkir sells nomadic tribal rugs that tell a story. Also less daunting than the Grand Bazaar is the smaller Egyptian Spice Bazaar by the Bosporus, with a good selection of ceramic tea sets, apricots stuffed with almonds, and mounds of mint, cumin, paprika, and tea. For locals, though, the city's new profusion of contemporary galleries and boutiques are more exotic. "Accenturc Design Gallery has wonderful hand-designed jewelry," says realtor Hande Erdogan. Another fashionable pit stop: local clothing designer Arzu Kaprol's eponymous shop.
Where the Locals Eat
"The hardest reservation to get in town right now is at Mikla," says Four Seasons concierge Halil Tinaztepe. That may be because the restaurant is such a prime example of the changing Istanbul. Offering a panoramic view of spotlit mosques glowing against the city's inky black din, the penthouse restaurant is pure contemporary high style inside&from the global fusion music to the long banquettes and manicured crowd. "I moved back here because Istanbul has this exotic feeling, but well-traveled young Turks also have a modern sensibility," says half-Finnish, half-Turkish chef Mehmet Gurs, who pairs a grilled chicken breast with local pomegranates, walnuts, and a parsley pistou. The chef is a fan of the contemporary kitchen at Changa, which features Pacific Rim cuisine in an art nouveau town house. For seafood, the restaurants sitting along the Bosporus offer simple grilled fish. Gurs suggests Bebek for its bluefish but the Poseidon flaunts even better water views with its tasty swordfish and grilled shrimp. Borsa specializes in another kind of signature dish&opulent Ottoman revival cuisine like lamb ravioli dressed with creamy yogurt. But the real measure of Turkish cuisine is the kebab, which means simply roast meat, and there are two landmarks. Perched above the Spice Market, Hamdi features a traditional meze appetizer platter of a thin-crust Turkish pizza, vegetables, and grilled lamb rolled in pistachios. For dinner, diehards still make the trek to Beyti, located in a suburb near the airport, for combination lamb platters.
Lodgings
If you want to stay close to the Sultanahmet district and avoid the endless traffic, park yourself at the Four Seasons, situated in a buttercup yellow former prison that no one would want to break out of now. What makes the hotel a favorite is the most attentive staff in town, a tranquil courtyard gazebo res-taurant, and elegant guest rooms. Forget the obvious chocolate mint on a pillow; the turndown treat here is a silver dish filled with chocolate baklava. The moderately priced alternative in the neighborhood is the Blue House, where the rooms are decidedly more spartan, though the wrought iron beds add a flourish and the single suite faces the Blue Mosque. If all this feels too old-school, head to Sumahan on the Water in the Cengelkoy district, a 19th-century distillery that owner Nedret Butler inherited and converted into a boutique hotel as part of her dissertation in architecture. "The actual execution only took 30 years," she laughs. But the work shows in the airy rooms that look directly out onto the Bosporus. Guests can use the hotel's complimentary launch or the nearby ferry service to get downtown. For more predictable highrise luxury, the Ritz-Carlton offers its own Bosporus views and then ups the ante; the hotel's open air, rooftop spa, lets you stroll directly from your Royal Sultans Six Hands Massage to cocktails at the rooftop bar. The homier and less expensive choice in the Beyoglu district is the Galata Antique Hotel, a refurbished 19th-century town house near Istikal Street that still maintains the hushed charm of a family villa.
Text by Benay Brotman, Carolyn Galgano, and Husna Haq
Want to see the Blue Mosque and the Grand Bazaar for yourself? Here we offer the best resources to help plan your visit to this enchanting city.
Blogs
Self-described as a "wandering thinker," 22-year-old American Alex Gray writes almost daily reports of his meanderings throughout Istanbul. (He lives the luxury of daily explorations, since "no one is entirely sure what he does.") A curious and quirky character, Gray reflects on the men he passes on morning walks, the reactions he receives to wearing a kilt in public, the changing management at the Funky Café, and the taste of hazelnut baklava. Interspersed with Gray's impressive array of observations about Istanbul are pictures of the city's sights and scenery—but, thankfully, no photos of Gray in a kilt.
Manzara: Letters From Istanbul
Kay Ebel, Assistant Professor of Geography at Ohio Wesleyan University and currently a fellow of the American Research Institute in Turkey, tracks her life in Istanbul where she is completing a book on city views and painted topographies of the 16th-century Ottoman Empire. Ebel explains in great detail the Muslim holidays she experiences, offering keen comparisons to religious celebrations in the U.S. Much of the blog details the current cultural life of Istanbul; recently, Ebel plunges into a play-by-play of the Istanbul Film Festival. Find links to websites about current events in Istanbul and a link to a gorgeous, albeit dizzying, panoramic view of the city.
A team of five regional bloggers share local insights into Istanbul life, from "lovable kabobs at high prices" to vandalism of an outdoor exhibition honoring Ataturk. Read brief political commentaries, rants about crime and cut trees, and listings of upcoming arts events. Recent postings engage a discussion about the opening of Florya Beach, link to an article on the new exhibition at the Topkapi Palace, and an update on the latest football scores.
Founded by two researchers at Harvard Law School's Berkman Center for Internet and Society, Global Voices tracks blogs, podcasts, and videoblogs relating to different world regions and reports the latest information, opinions, and discussions that are captivating blogging communities. Blogger-editors write short commentaries on and post links to the blogs, providing an accessible, comprehensive source for the current regional buzz worldwide. Recent postings under the Turkey section range include free speech and veiling in public.
Podcasts
Lonely Planet guidebook authors Verity Campbell and Virginia Maxwell introduce you to the sights, sounds, and feel of Istanbul as they share their favorite Istanbul destinations and dining locations in this podcast interview. Interspersed throughout the dialogue are authentic sounds of the city—live recordings of the markets, city streets, and the call to prayer—that transport you to the places the authors describe.
The Whirling Dervishes of Istanbul
Host Robin Young of Boston's WBUR Here and Now program interviews the tour manager and a member of the whirling dervishes of Istanbul before a performance at Harvard's Sanders Theater last fall. Learn about the ritual dance of Islamic Sufis, from the education required to become a dervish to the spiritual significance of the dance to what it feels like to whirl "closer to God." Even without witnessing the Dervishes' performance, listeners are easily captivated by the traditional music and chanting that play in the background.
Newspapers
Turkish Daily Newspaper (TDN)
"Turkey's first and only English daily" newspaper provides in-depth coverage of both national and international news stories, aimed at foreigners living in Turkey, as they make up 60% of the paper's readership. With sections devoted to diplomacy, finance, sports, weather, and more, TDN offers broad news coverage from around the world, in addition to highly regarded columns written by noted politicians, businessmen, and scholars.
You're sure to be in the know when reading this independent, English-language newspaper that c overs world news with a focus on national stories. Check out the "Features" section for expansive articles on local events, including art exhibitions and concerts. Additionally, the "Interview" section offers conversations with fascinating people of politics and society, including a women's rights activist and an Iraqi ambassador.
Check out this award-winning, independent newspaper for unique and current articles, as well as worldwide news. For the most popular articles of the past week, click on the "Reader's Choice" section, or head to the "Culture & Society" page which announces Turkish events, with stories on local art, film, and entertainment.
Magazines
Published for both residents and tourists, Time Out Istanbul is a guide to the best restaurants, shopping, nightlife, and hotspots. The "Around Town" section gives up-to-date events happening around the city, and with addresses and maps, you are sure to know where to go, and how to get there.
Touted as the "Magazine for Connoisseurs of Turkey," Cornucopia offers insight into the many cultures, people, and places, dating back to the ancient Ottoman Empire though modern day Turkey. Although not all articles can be found online, you can get a taste of everything Cornucopia has to offer with its vivid pictures and sophisticated articles.
Maps
Europe-Cities Istanbul Hotel Map
Click on any of the color-coded dots on this map of Istanbul to see 1-to-5-star hotels with the name, rating, price, and picture of each, along with a description and details.
Click on any segment of this map of Turkey to zoom in on Turkish highways and local roads. The distance calculator lists 81 destinations and an archaeological map lets users click on locales to learn more about an area's geography, history, and sights.
Books
My Name is Red, by Orhan Pamuk (Faber and Faber, 2001)
Pamuk transports readers into the fantasyland of 16th-century Istanbul in this sweeping story about the soul of Turkey. The mystery begins when an artist commissioned by the Sultan to illuminate a manuscript is killed. What follows is a rich, layered tale that uses mystery, love, art, philosophy, and multiple points of view (including those of a tree, dog, ink, and gold coin) to convey not only a sense of place, but also a state of mind of the land of Turkey.
Istanbul, Memories and the City, by Orhan Pamuk (Knopf, 2005)
Pamuk paints a portrait of himself and of his city, Istanbul, in this gentle, ethereal novel that hangs, dreamlike, between fantasy and reality. As he revisits his life and childhood, Pamuk also recalls Istanbul as it once was, a city of thoughtful melancholy, huzun, in Arabic. Discover a man and the land that shaped him in this profound novel that rewards readers with a penetrating perspective of Istanbul.
Fez of the Heart: Travels Around Turkey in Search of a Hat, by Jeremy Seal (Harcourt, 1996)
Kemal Ataturk dealt a blow to tradition and history when, in the interest of promoting Westernism, he banned the fez in Turkey in 1925. Ever since (and for decades before), Turkey has teetered between tradition and modernity, East and West. Seal sets off in search of the fez, and of the soul of old Turkey, in this rollicking journey through Kurdish territories, the Black Sea, Ankara, Istanbul, and Cappadocia.
Tales from the Expat Harem, edited by Anastasia Ashman and Jennifer Eaton Gokmen (Seal Press, 2006)
Follow the journeys of 29 women as they discover Turkey and its people in this collection of stories designed to reveal a culture often veiled in mystery and mystique. A 30-year-old African American encounters a lust-filled dating scene in Istanbul; a shy English teacher confronts her self-image in a 13th-century bathhouse; an Iowan evangelist is changed by the very Turkish souls she hoped to convert. The beauty of Tales is that each story paints Turkey as the narrator experiences it, and, together, the stories construct a portrait of a people and their place.
Movies
Hamam: The Turkish Bath (1997)
Italian designer Francesco reluctantly travels to Istanbul to sell a hamam, or Turkish bath, he inherited from a deceased aunt. The ceremonies of Turkish life—from the careful preparation of meals, to the tranquil public baths—seduce him, and he begins to fall in love with Turkey and with a Turkish paramour. Watch the movie for its graceful direction, textured characters, and revealing interaction between cultures.
Don't Let Them Shoot the Kite (1989)
Based on the 1986 book Don't Let them Shoot the Kite, about Feride Cicekoglu's experiences as a political prisoner in a Turkish women's prison, this film (nominated by the Turkish Film Festival for the Best Turkish Picture of the Year Award) tells the story of Baris, a neglected five-year-old who pretends to stay in touch with his pardoned "prison-mother," Inci, through a magical kite. Through a local lens, the film considers the global issue of freedom.
Istanbul Tales (2005)
Set during one night in the Turkish city, Istanbul Tales is a series of interlocking stories that follows five sets of characters whose lives intersect after a mob gangster is killed. Each story is a modern fairy tale that depicts life in Turkey from vastly different perspectives (a lost man is mistaken for an ancient ghost, the daughter of a dead gangster is saved by a dwarf). Crisp characterization and vivid cinematography make Istanbul come alive.
Searching for Paradise (2002)
Described as a documentary about "living between East and West, Islam and Christianity, past, and present," this movie follows director Binnur Karaevli from Los Angeles to Istanbul on a personal quest to explore her roots and make sense of her Eastern heritage and Western upbringing. Searching for Paradise explores the East/West dichotomy of Turkey, and of Karaevli herself, and suggests both are better off for their rich backgrounds.