Feeling French in a fairy-tale city.
In the October 2006 issue of National Geographic Traveler, author Olivia Stren explores the charming neighborhoods of this former fur-trading settlement, established in 1608. With its streets, shops, and cafés along the St. Lawrence River, Quebec City suggests the romance of Paris and the charm of a provincial village.
48 Hours in Quebec City
Text by Olivia Stren
Feeling happily ever after in Quebec City's charming neighborhoods and updated Old Port.
A local shopkeeper pedals along the cobbled streets of Quebec City's Old Port. A transistor radio pokes out from his basket, playing French chanteur Charles Trenet's 'Que reste t-il de nos amours?' (What's Left of our Loves?) The cyclist sings along with abandon.This vignette captures Quebec City's finest: its artful, Parisian romance and nostalgic provincial pace.
The oldest city in Canada, Quebec City proudly guards its history from the banalities of modernity. Evan Price, owner of Auberge Saint-Antoine and sixth-generation Quebecer (his Welsh ancestors arrived in Quebec City 200 years ago to make pine masts for the British fleet), notes, "There are no Starbucks stores, and very few chains. You still have the warm feeling of the neighborhood shop owner." Despite its population (about 530,000) and growing crop of boutique hotels and high-gloss restaurants, the city feels like a European village designed by Playmobil.
"There's been a lot of development in the Old Port," says Price. "Quebec City may modernize, but it doesn't change. Evolution is very gradual here. Building heights remain low, and we have lots of trees and plenty of sky, with surrounding farms and open fields."
Fast Facts
Set dramatically on the northern shores of the St. Lawrence River, Quebec City—founded by Samuel de Champlain as a fur-trading post in 1608—was the first settlement in New France. A vertiginous staircase (dubbed L'Escalier Casse-Cou, or Breakneck Staircase) links the cliff-top Upper Town (historically home to political dignitaries, nuns, and Jesuits) and Lower Town (a riverside knot of narrow streets, once home to merchants and tradesmen).
In the late 19th century, Lower Town began devolving into seedy disrepair (banks moved out and brothels moved in). Finally, the local government poured millions into restoring the area starting in the late 1960s. But, according to Price, the Old Port is only now in the throes of a renaissance. "Fifteen years ago people still would have placed a bet on the safety of venturing into this area." The place is now immaculate; even in the height of touristseason, streets are so clean you feel they've been art-directed by Universal Studios.The best way to get around the city's streets is on foot. Autumn, when sugar maples kindle into color, may be the prettiest time to visit. If you come in wintertime, be warned: Quebec winters are not as hospitable as its denizens. Snow quilts the city and icicles bejewel church steeples for months. Ruby-cheeked locals brave the hostile climes with feather-filled parkas.
Don't Miss
"Quebec City is full of history and secrets," says media exec Richard Sèguin. Kick off your personal treasure hunt with a visit to Quebec's birthplace, Place Royale (this is where Champlain first settled with his 26 men). The square boasts Norman-style limestone facades characterized by steep slate roofs painted in jubilant shades of emerald and berry (they were originally colored so that people on the St. Lawrence River could pinpoint their homes, even in white winters). You can't visit the Place without taking a quick stroll around the gallery-and-boutique-glutted Quartier Petit-Champlain. Climb Casse-Cou (carved into the Cape-aux-Diamants) and walk along Rue St. Louis to behold the Parliament Building, a formidable neo-French Renaissance behemoth inspired by the Louvre. Afterward, head to the Plains of Abraham, the province's answer to Central Park. The grand 266-acre expanse saw the British defeat the French in 1759 (a battle that led to the birth of Canada). The Joan of Arc Garden within the park is a meticulously tended flower garden, ringed with American elms. During spring, it's the best place to relax with a book.
An after-dinner promenade deserves a spot on the itinerary. You could walk along the Rue des Remparts to enjoy the view from the fortifications or take a romantic stroll along the St. Lawrence waterfront. Start at the Bassin Louise and walk toward Lévis Ferry.
Where the Locals Eat
Sans doute, the finest (and coziest) restaurant in town is Panache, with its flagstone walls, wrought-iron staircase, and inviting banquettes heaped with the kind of crimson cushions you'd have found in Colette's boudoir. Panache chef François Blais creates a sumptuous take on traditional Québécois fare that includes princess sea scallops on the half-shell dressed with Champagne granité, truffle-stuffed quail, and emu tartare sided with mustard, capers, and cornichon salad. Blais is decisive about his favorite haunts: "Initiale is the best. Chef Yvan Lebrun was born to be a chef." Also in charming Vieux-Port is Laurie Raphaël, home to celebrity chef Daniel Vézina, who has his own show, line of gourmet products, and cookbooks. Vézina's menu plays tribute to local farmers. "We're spoiled with fine produce from l'Îled'Orléans," Vézina says. (If you'd like to spend a few hours grazing on Quebec's riches, head with a hollow tummy to le Marché du Vieux-Port, where farmers come to sell fruit, cheese, bread, and wine.) For those craving French bistro classics, Le Café du Clocher Penché has excellent pommes frites.
Shopping
A cobbled, boutique-embroidered street to rival any Parisian ruelle in charm and winning looks is Rue Saint-Paul. Here, a string of petite shops with wooden floors draws committed antiquers and souvenir-seekers. Miniature side streets in this Antiques District sport adorable names (to wit: Passage Demi-Lune), and look as if they should be populated with local wood sprites. One of the spunkiest shops on the strip is Machin Chouette, where you'll find vintage butter boxes (reborn into leather-covered footrests) and chalkboards too elegant for prosaic grocery lists, unless yours reads "croissants et vin rouge."
Rue Saint-Jean, the city's premiere boulevard of Gallic gastronomica, excels in what Quebecers do best: romance and fattening food. J.A. Moisan, the oldest grocery store in North America, prettied with pressed-tin ceilings, flaunts picnic-ready savories (salamis, pâtés, and ice cider, Quebec's sweet elixir). Serious gourmands should head to Épicerie Européenne for a lusty selection of raw-milk artisanal cheeses (the likes of which you won't find anywhere in the U.S.). Sweets-lovers should visit Choco-Musée Érico, a chocolate gallery that makes all its bars, cookies, and gelatos on-site. For a lower-calorie high, trot over to Le Temps Retrouvé, a used bookstore and furniture shop that will inspire fantasies worthy of French novels.
Nightlife
Arguably more festive than the French, Québécois have an unrivaled talent for merrymaking. The Grande Allée may be the city's busiest (and sometimes most obnoxious) p.m. drag, so those preferring to imbibe without the company of hordes of coeds are advised to head to Le Boudoir in the gradually rejuvenating Quartier Saint-Roch. The hip Boudoir promises a more sophisticated and less crowded scene. Also in Saint-Roch is the Largo Resto-Club, where you can enjoy live jazz with your martini. The amorous should frequent the Frontenac's Bar St-Laurent, which proffers a splendid view of the night-cloaked river.
Lodgings of Note
With its fairy-tale perch atop the Cape-Aux-Diamants, the Chåteau Frontenac has bathed in the glare of more flashbulbs than most Hollywood divas. The 618-room beauty is as much a historic landmark as a cushy place to bid bonne nuit. Despite its regal moniker, the Chåteau Laurier doesn't claim the same cerulean-blooded hauteur as the Frontenac. But its location, at the top of Grande Allée, is prized. The more intimate and charming properties are to be found in the Old Port. For history and finery, book the historic Auberge Saint-Antoine. Here, 750 archaeological artifacts are displayed throughout the property. The Hôtel Dominion 1912 manages the fine balance between minimalist and sensuous: Soaring ceilings, plush armchairs, and dark woods the shade of bittersweet chocolate are the aesthetic leitmotif. The Hôtel Le Priori once home to famed architect Jean Baillairgé, is also a snug option. The two-story loftlike suites make for ideal family retreats.
Text by Allison Busacca, Alexis Chema and Husna Haq
Plan a trip with these resources that highlight the best the city has to offer.
Blogs
Lynn and Lawrie Stewart spent six months traveling through Canada with a truck, a trailer, and two dogs named Oreo and Oscar. From the Yukon to Labrador, the husband-and-wife duo chronicles everything from tourist attractions to the trials of everyday travel. Posts, one for almost every day of their trip, include photos to help illustrate their findings. If you want to read the section on Quebec City, go to this page. Other topics of interest are Lynn's posts on knitting and Lawrie's section on curling.
Excellent Adventures in Travel and Food
A resident of Vancouver, Baden Smith attempts to surprise his wife by taking her cross-country to Quebec City for the Winter Carnival. This blog covers his adventures on the road and at home, in food and travel. Includes cooking tips, recipes, advice on dining in, favorite restaurant experiences, and travel planning. In-text links direct readers to Quebec City websites. The site can be translated into 11 languages.
"Danigirl," mother of two preschool-age sons, Tristan and Simon, knows all too well how difficult it is to travel with young kids. During a weekend trip to Quebec City, the author gives the lowdown on how to keep kids' interest without lowering the educational value of a trip. With an optimistic outlook on every situation, she tackles each location with enthusiasm and humor.
Podcasts
The Canadian Broadcasting Company (CBC) compiles the best stories from the past week's broadcast, available for free download and subscription using QuickTime or iTunes. With coverage from Montreal to Gagnon, "Quebec this Week" mixes stories from all the CBC's daily programs.
Want to travel earphone-free and kiss bulky travel guides goodbye? Download free info on Quebec City sights, restaurants, hotels, clubs, and cultural events to your iPod. CityGuide compiles files on sights throughout the world, then offers free iPod downloads with a quick registration. Your ears remain free to absorb surrounding local sounds as your eyes peruse the CityGuide files that include a brief descriptive paragraph on attractions, including business hours, credit cards accepted, and price range.
Newspapers
For local news and events, log on to or pick up a copy of the Chronicle-Telegraph, Quebec City's only English-language newspaper. This weekly publication claims to be North America's oldest newspaper, dating back to 1764. Be sure to check out the quirky "Things of Fame" section in which the paper reprints anachronistic snippets of stories from its extensive archives.
This online service provided by Quebec's Department of International Relations posts translations of articles originally reported in French by Quebec newspapers and news services. Only a couple of new stories appear each week, but the site includes hundreds of articles from the past year.
Magazines
This online magazine caters to visitors and Quebecers alike, offering reviews of local attractions and diversions, from museum exhibitions, festivals, and restaurants, to dogsledding and spelunking. Telegraphe also includes historical and cultural background on Quebec City, as well as neighborhood maps, links to Quebec City-related newspaper articles, and a slew of colorful photos.
The Quebec Ministry of Tourism's splashy online magazine caters to visitors by covering cultural and family-friendly events throughout the province in informative articles. Consult "Gourmet's Pleasures" to learn about the region's delicacies, and "Follow the Guide" for themed trip ideas.
Canada's newsweekly publishes topical features on current events, society, business, politics, and more. Peruse the print version, or visit the website for special features like blogs, news updates, and photo galleries.
Radio Stations
Quebec City's Radio One 104.7 airs national and local English-language programming from the CBC, the national network. Tune in to shows like "Quebec A.M." in the morning and "Breakaway" in the afternoon for interviews and news from a Quebecois perspective.
Laval University's student-run radio station broadcasts in French, but plays tunes from around the world and across the musical spectrum. CHYZ programs feature Acadian folk, West Coast rap, Maghrebian electronica, and much more. The independent station also prides itself on giving airtime to local French-Canadian musicians. Listen online by clicking the "en direct" button at the top of its home page.
Maps
This clear, easy-to-read WorldWeb map lets you choose from categories like lodging, dining, shopping, and art galleries, then highlights chosen sites on the map. Click on the site for a name, description, phone number, and address. Zoom or try the satellite map for different views of Quebec City.
World66's map follows the same format as WorldWeb's (both use Google Maps), but offers a different assortment of sites—check out Internet cafés. Zoom in and out, try the satellite view, and click on sites for details.
Books
Kamouraska, by Anne Hébert (Crown, 1973)
This Quebec-born poet, playwright, and novelist incorporates both French nouveau roman and North American postmodernism into her work. Kamouraska—translated into seven languages, winner of the Paris Book Prize, and made into a feature film—is the story of one woman's obsession with forbidden love that leads to despair and murder. This Quebecois love triangle reminiscent of Anna Karenina throbs with passion and destruction.
Sacré Blues, by Taras Grescoe (MacFarlane, Walter & Ross, 2001)
Take an entertaining tour of Quebec City culture—complete with musings on poutine, Céline Dion, native people's displacement, and Quebec's 890 distinctive curse words—with smart and occasionally wicked Grescoe, a regular National Geographic Traveler contributor, as your guide. The reading's fun and easy, and the lively mix of reportage, anecdotes, statistics, and interviews is well researched and enlightening.
Shadows on the Rock, by Willa Cather (Vintage Press, 1931)
The year is 1697 and 12-year-old Cécile Auclair lives with her widowed father in the bleak, isolated French settlement overlooking the St. Lawrence River that is 17th-century Quebec. The writing, slow-paced and soothing, reflects day-to-day life in the city, a gentle rhythm of village feuds, homemaking, and French Catholic customs.
Movies
Séraphin: Un homme et son péché (Séraphin: Heart of Stone) (2003)
A lush, unspoiled setting, a heartless villain, a distressed heroine, and a sweet ending—director Charles Binamé's period drama is a fairy tale come to life. Séraphin Poudrier, mayor and village bully, demands pretty Donalda's hand in marriage as payment for a debt owed by her father. Séraphin dominates the entire 19th-century Quebec outpost of St. Adele until its people make their own demands.
L'Ange de Goudron (Tar Angel) (2001)
Days before receiving his citizenship papers, Algerian immigrant Ahmed Kasmi discovers that his 19-year-old son Hafid destroyed government files (a terrorist act) and disappeared into Northern Quebec. What follows is an hour and a half of raw emotion—fear, anger, bewilderment, persecution, and relief—as Ahmed charges the streets of Quebec in search of his son. Denis Chouinard's film offers a glimpse into modern Quebecois immigration issues.
Mon Oncle Antoine (1971)
This bittersweet comedy tells the coming-of-age tale of Benoît, a 15-year-old orphan who goes to live with a foster family in a cold, rural Quebec mining town one Christmas in the 1940s. As Benoît encounters adulthood—sex, death, and responsibility—the film explores the social conditions of old, conservative Quebec that led to the Quiet Revolution in the 60s, a period of rapid social and economic change.