South Australia's seaside capital boasts a cosmopolitan center surrounded by serene parkland.
Once known as the "City of Churches," this coastal capital city is now the home of over one million Australians drawn to the city's premier art scene, lush parkland, and charming Victorian architecture. In the November/December issue of National Geographic Traveler, writer Roff Smith explores the city "down under."
48 Hours in Adelaide
Text by Roff Smith
South Australia's seaside capital boasts a cosmopolitan center surrounded by serene parkland.
It's hard to put a finger on Adelaide. It has that curious blend of high sophistication and big country attitude. On the one hand it is Australia's cultural heart, home to international festivals of music, arts, film, and literature. It hosts a Thinker-in-Residence, a Festival of Ideas, and its Fringe Festival is the second largest in the world. The city's streets are lined with jazzy wine bars and sidewalk cafés. The Adelaide Arts Centre is said to have better acoustics than the Sydney Opera House. And three of the world's great wine districts lie just an hour away.
Yet it is also a charmingly old-fashioned city of wide sun-drenched streets, a low-slung skyline free of skyscrapers, and close to the bush. In fact, a 20-minute drive into the hills will take you along quiet, gum-shaded backroads where you're more likely to see a kangaroo then a connoisseur. "It is a wonderfully human city," says Maggie Beer, an Australian food producer. "Everything is close and intimate, particularly when the festivals are on. It feels like everybody in town is involved."
Fast Facts
The capital of the state of South Australia, Adelaide was laid out in 1837 by Colonel William Light, a gentlemanly British Army surveyor who drew upon the classical designs of Italian cities he'd admired when he'd done the Grand Tour as a young man. He pegged out a grid—one imperial mile square—which he inlaid with parks and commons and then surrounded with a swath of green so that today much of downtown Adelaide resides within a park. The city enjoys a classic Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry, sunny summers and cool, moist winters.
Don't Miss
Adelaide is a city to be explored on foot. "This is one of the world's great walking cities," says Mike Rann, the British-born, New Zealand-raised premier of South Australia, who moved here as a young man and never left. "Like a lot of people in the city, I walk to work every day, and amble around the Botanic Garden when I need a bit of inspiration." The best place to start exploring is North Terrace. This is Adelaide's cultural precinct, a pleasant tree-lined boulevard where a short stroll from the Boer War Memorial on the corner of King William Street will bring you past the gates of Government House (where the Queen's representative resides; open to the public twice a year) and on to the State Library , the South Australian Museum, and the Art Gallery of South Australia.
The South Australian Museum, recognizable by the whale skeleton in its huge front window, houses what may be the world's finest collection of Aboriginal artifacts, as well as exhibits on the state's geology and opals (South Australia accounts for 80 percent of the world's opals). The third floor is devoted to the life and adventures of Sir Douglas Mawson, Australia's greatest Antarctic explorer. Next door is the Art Gallery of South Australia with its superb mix of modern and colonial art. Be sure to check out the Australian impressionists& Charles Condor, Frederick McCubbin, Arthur Streeton, and Tom Roberts, whose iconic paintings celebrate the heat and glare of the Australian landscape.
A little farther along North Terrace is Ayers House, an elegant 19th-century bluestone mansion and the flagship museum of the National Trust of South Australia. From 1878 to 1897 it was the home of Sir Henry Ayers, the former South Australian premier for whom Ayers Rock was named.
Beyond that is the Botanic Garden, with its conservatory and enclosed rain forest. When you're walking along North Terrace, don't overlook the museum in front of the library honoring the exploits of Sir Donald Bradman, Australia's sports hero (and longtime Adelaide resident), who played cricket in the golden age of the game in the 1930s and '40s.
If it seems too nice a day to spend inside a museum, head for the beach. The best way to get there is on the original 1929 tram that rattles along from Victoria Square in the city to sunny Glenelg. Or make use of all the parklands to have a picnic. Pick up the makings at Central Market (a short walk up Grote Street from Victoria Square). Its 80 stalls are a cornucopia of South Australia's freshest: handmade cheeses from the Adelaide Hills and Kangaroo Island, smoked meats from the German butcher shops in the Barossa Valley, dried fruits from the Riverland. Or if cricket is on, wander up to the Adelaide Oval cricket grounds and watch a session of play. It's one of the prettiest grounds in the world, with its rose-garden setting near St. Peter's Cathedral, and even if you don't understand the game the ambience speaks for itself.
Shopping
Opals are usually high on the shopping list of anyone coming to South Australia. The jewelry and gift shops along Rundle Mall and King William Street have beautiful stones for sale and staff that can guide you through the intricacies of buying opal. Wines are another big item, and while there are plenty of liquor stores dotted around, the best and most enjoyable way to buy your wine is to hire a car and driver (Australia has strict drinking-driving laws) for the day and head up to the Barossa Valley, or down to McLaren Vale, and taste as you buy. Art lovers should drop into the JamFactory, a notable artists' center where talented artists from around the state come to create in its studios and attend workshops. The JamFactory is known for its exquisite glass, woodwork, furniture, and jewelry. South Australia is also home to R.M. Williams, the legendary outback outfitter famed for its soft kangaroo-hide boots. At its shop on Rundle Mall, you can still buy oilskin coats, stockwhips, and hats. Those with a sweet tooth should visit Haighs, Australia's oldest family-run chocolatier still selling handmade chocolates in its original shop.
Dining
For such a smallish city, Adelaide has plenty of riches when it comes to world-class dining. "We have so much in the way of good food, a melting pot of cultures and freedom to create," says Cheong Liew, a world-renowned chef whose own restaurant The Grange (located in the Adelaide Hilton) is a must for any serious culinary traveler. One of his specialties is an eight-course menu, which Liew calls "Migration of Ideas" and blends Chinese, Japanese, and Indian influences into each dish. Some of his own favorite restaurants in town include the Ristorante Auge for fresh Italian fare and Jasmin, a North Indian restaurant on Hindmarsh Square for hot and tangy beef vindaloo and curries. Hutt, Gouger, and Rundle Streets in the city are all lined with stylish restaurants and cafés, as is Melbourne and O'Connell Streets in North Adelaide. Jolleys Boathouse is another good bet. Perched on the banks of the River Torrens, this Victorian-era boathouse features contemporary fare (grilled Wagyu beef, pumpkin crepes, venison carpaccio, fig, endive salad, South Australian oysters) in an airy conservatory setting. Finally, there's the humble meat pie, the quintessential and ubiquitous Australian fast food, served with a squirt of tomato sauce. South Australians have devised their own variety: the pie floater, a meat pie with the requisite tomato sauce and floating in a bowl of pea soup. The pie cart in front of the casino, on North Terrace, is the classic place to pick one up.
There is no shortage of pubs and casual dining in the city. If you're exploring North Terrace's museums, the modern Art Gallery Restaurant, located in the rear of the Art Gallery with a wonderful view of the outdoor gardens, has a regularly changing menu of classic French-Mediterranean cuisine.
Nightlife
Not surprisingly, being in the heart of Australian wine country, wine bars figure prominently in Adelaide's nightlife scene. One of the classics is the Universal Wine Bar, where you can browse through a wine list featuring hundreds of labels and, if you're feeling decadent, pull the cork on a $518 bottle of 1988 Penfolds Grange (Shiraz). Another place to try local vintages is the Apothecary 1878 in the raffish end of town. The wine bar's name comes from the 125-year-old pharmacy cabinets that front the bar. Besides the lengthy wine list, there's a roster of fine scotches and a bar plate menu. The Banque in North Adelaide, is another popular haunt with its jazz nights and cool cocktails.
Places to Stay
The big glitzy hotels—the Hilton, Hyatt, and Sebel Playford—are all well located for exploring Adelaide; the Hyatt and Playford are located on North Terrace, and the Hilton is on Victoria Square. If you're looking for something a bit smaller and more chic, consider the art deco Hotel Richmond on Rundle Mall. Built in 1929, and refurbished a few years ago, it has an elegant bar, and the rooms offer contemporary decor in earth tones with leather ottomans.
Or for something really funky try the Fire Station Inn on High Street in North Adelaide. Originally built in 1866, the remodeled fire station contains three individual suites, but the pièce de résistance is in the ground floor suite: an original, fully restored scarlet-red 1942 fire truck sitting in the bedroom.
Text by Mary Beth LaRue
Sink your teeth into Australia's cultural capital before taking flight with Traveler's recommendations for the best resources available in Adelaide.
Blogs
"Be a Part of the Arts" is less of a blog, and more of an arts calendar, but it provides great spur-of-the-moment ideas for art-related happenings in Adelaide, like showings of the London play "The Woman in Black" or English pianist Paul Lewis' upcoming performance. Keep in mind that this site is not indexed, and what you see posted today may not be there tomorrow. Be sure to keep a pencil and a calendar handy.
What are Australians reading? The staff at downtown bookstore Dymocks Books offers up their own picks from political commentary to contemporary fiction, as well as children's book recommendations. Check out the bookstore's website for store events, new releases, and more.
Podcasts
Sample one of The Backyard's many podcasts covering every aspect of Australian culture—from cricket to cooking to Aboriginal music. Download the "Overnights" podcast, a lively radio show with author interviews, album reviews, and fun tidbits.
Tune in to ABC Adelaide's podcasts for up-to-the-minute programs on local and national news, Adelaide culture and events, and more.
Newspapers
Catch up on Adelaide's local news as well as downtown events, food and wine reviews, and local and international travel. Search for upcoming events by genre, region, or date in the "Gigs and Events" section.
Australia's Independent Weekly's online newspaper is a one-stop shop for current news, weather, and events.
The country's only national broadsheet newspaper since 1964, the Australian is an in-depth look at happenings all over Australia. The newspaper's website is highly interactive with streaming video, audio, and even animation.
Magazines
This local magazine covers the hot political, social, and cultural topics that affect daily life for locals in Southern Australia. While not all of the magazine's content is posted on its website, the "Features" section highlights investigative news reports from hard-hitting Adelaide reporters. Check out the "Food & Wine" section for restaurant reviews.
South Australia's "street press" magazine is a free, independent weekly covering the best of Adelaide's local band, art, and theatre scene. Though geared at a young "hipster" demographic, dBMagazine provides insider leads to some of the best performances in the city.
Maps
Maps of Adelaide Tourism Region
This easy-to-use map shows several views of Southern Australia and the city of Adelaide. Click by click, the map will zoom closer to your destination, starting with a birds-eye view of the country and zeroing in on specific city streets.
Much like MapQuest, Whereis.com is a directory input tool that helps users with specific directions to their destination. Just input the address, business, or place, and a map of your destination will appear.
With this comprehensive map of Adelaide and surrounding areas, the user can zoom in on a city or country view, and search by street or business names.
Books
In a Sunburned Country, by Bill Bryson (Random House 2000)
Travel humorist and National Geographic Traveler contributor Bill Bryson explores the immense continent of Australia while encountering all sorts of mishaps—from toxic caterpillars to a lost prime minister. The New York Times called this book "Vastly entertaining .... If there is one book with which to get oriented before departure or en route to Australia, this is it."
Australia: A Sense of Place, by Nick Rains (Viking Australia 2005)
Australian photographer Nick Rains captures the deep beauty of the continent's landscape in this 132-page book, which is full of images depicting the canyons of Western Australia to coastal panoramics.
Keep Australia on Your Left: A True Story of an Attempt to Circumnavigate Australia by Kayak, by Eric Stiller (Forge 2000).
Professional fitness trainer Eric Stiller and Australian fashion model Tony Brown embark on an exciting, and surprising, adventure kayaking around the continent of Australia. There is never a shortage of surprises, from jellyfish to crocodiles.
Check out our Travel Library for more Australia picks!
Movies
Rabbit-Proof Fence (2002)
In this true story, a young Aboriginal Australian girl named Molly Craig helps her younger sister and cousin escape from an official government camp in Australia. Molly guides the girls over 1,500 miles of Australian terrain to find the rabbit-proof fence that divides the continent and will lead them home.The Timeless Land (2006)
This film spans the early days of British settlement in Australia from 1788-1811, following the lives of both convicts and settlers. They are confronted by Governor Phillip's attempts to understand the Aborigines and his conflicts with the military, the Rum Rebellion, crossing the Blue Mountains, and many other hardships.