This former gold rush town is once again attracting attention, with renovated neighborhoods and a new urban feeling.
Hailed as one of the "most livable" regions in America, the capital city of California is steeped in gold rush history. Old Sacramento is a 28-acre (11-hectare) historic park with more than 50 buildings marking its past as a hub for the Pony Express and the transcontinental railroad. Visitors can relive the Western glory, with horse-drawn carriage rides, pioneer exhibits, and riverboat cruises. Those bent on more modern entertainment can attend the world's largest Dixieland jazz festival, bike the American River Parkway, or tour local wineries.
48 Hours in Sacramento
Text by Andrew Nelson
Eight ways California's capital will have you shouting, "Eureka!"
For much of its 150-year history, Sacramento endured a reputation as a drowsy place, but California's capital is no longer a snore. Population is up. City Hall and the grandly baroque Cathedral of the Blessed Sacrament have been renovated. "The city has a new urban feeling," says restaurateur Randy Paragary. "People don't leave for the suburbs after work." They linger at wine bars like the new 58 Degrees & Holding Co., or cafés such as the Naked Lounge (try a "Keith Richards," a shot of cola and espresso). The state motto now seems to apply to the city's rising ambitions: "Eureka!" I've found it.
1. Relive the Pony Express Years To get a sense of the city's wild youth, visit Old Sacramento, a riverside neighborhood composed of 53 historic buildings that look as they did when Pony Express riders dismounted their horses at the hitching post of the B. F. Hastings Building. The tourist shops inside them supply the modern, commercial touch. Also here, the California State Railroad Museum displays 21 cars and locomotives, and 1,000 toy trains. The museum also runs excursions on an authentic steam locomotive.
2. Brush Up on the Gold Rush Founded by one of the city's first families, the Crocker Art Museum has more than 14,000 pieces in its permanent collection, from European Old Masters to Chinese textiles. But it is most famous for its trove of California art, which remained safe while the 1906 San Francisco earthquake ravaged most collections. Two not-to-miss paintings from the gold-rush era: "Sunday Morning in the Mines" and "Fandango," both by painter and former miner Charles Christian Nahl.
3. Monitor California's Hall of Fame The recently opened California Hall of Fame at the California Museum for History, Women and the Arts honors men and women like Ronald Reagan, Billie Jean King, Amelia Earhart, and Clint Eastwood (who donated his Oscars to the exhibit). But that's not all you'll find here. The museum "is as diverse as California," says guide Rika Nelson. The "Treasures from Hearst Castle" exhibit displays more than 40 objects from San Simeon.
4. Spot Arnold If you want to see the city's most famous figure, do the following: 1) Tour the State Capitol. Docents give free tours every hour on the hour beginning at 9 a.m. Time your visit for a press conference; you may see Governor Schwarzenegger glad-handing in the corridors. 2) Lounge by the Hyatt Regency Sacramento's outdoor pool. The governor keeps a suite at the hotel and he's known to favor poolside meetings when the weather is nice. 3) Eat at Lucca, a Mediterranean bistro in Midtown. He enjoys the patio. Insider tip: Though it's not always open, visit the Governor's Office Reception Area in the Capitol to pick up one of Arnold's business cards, free.
5. Shop Local Style Havens A retail revival is perking up Midtown, an urban neighborhood located east of the capitol. J Street, between 22nd and 26th Streets, features a cluster of smart specia lty stores like Riki Design for clothing, and Haus for custom furniture and home decor. Other Midtown stores to note: Lumens , a small lighting company; premium jeans emporium Dara Denim ; and Le Petit Paris , for chic baby clothes from France.
6. Float a Boat "Sacramento is the River City, so we love our water," says Nate Rangel of Adventure Connection , which runs white-water rafting trips on the three arms of the American River. River Rat Raft and Bike offers one- to one-and-a-half-hour float trips right through town. Outfitters can also rent inner tubes or kayaks on Lake Natomas.
7. Eat On the Town Sacramento's restaurant scene is booming. An insider sampler: Mulvaney's Building and Loan (1215 19th St.; +1 916 441 6022), a Midtown newcomer housed in a former firehouse and featuring upscale American fare using locally grown produce and wines; Mikuni, a sushi bar that fills with a well-dressed younger crowd on weekends; Frank Fat's , the classic Chinese restaurant known as the "third chamber of the California state legislature" because of its popularity with the power patrol; and colorful Centro Cocina , serving Mexican regional fare with flair and moderate prices.
8. Head to Wine Country Sacramento has its own wine region: Amador County in the Sierra foothills. A 45-minute drive gets you to Shenandoah Valley, the heart of the county. "Amador is one of the last undiscovered wine regions in California," says Stan Hock, a local wine critic. "Full-bodied, robust Zinfandel is the region's specialty. The wines are cheaper than Sonoma and Napa. The crowds are less, and there's no tasting fee in any of the region's 35 wineries."
Fast Facts Founded by John A. Sutter, Jr., in 1849, this former gold-rush town is located near the meeting of the American and Sacramento Rivers. The city can reach 100-degree temperatures in the summer, but it’s shaded by a dense canopy of trees that makes the older Midtown neighborhood resemble New Orleans or Savannah.
Text by Mary Beth LaRue and Emily Haile
Check out Traveler's picks of the "Camellia Capital's" best resources—blogs, podcasts, magazines, and more.
Blogs
After hunting for a good local food blog and coming up empty handed, locals Jennifer Cliff and Ann Martin Rolke decided to start their own, launching Sacatomato during the summer of 2006. These culinary consultants keep you up to date on where to find the area's best foodie festivals, ingredients, and "pie crust that leaves you breathless." Check out the "Have you tried" section for bite-sized tidbits about everything local—from hostess gifts to handmade tortillas.
Metroblogging Sacramento is a good mix of local news and culture with a pretty hefty event listing. Check out the Flickr group for an eyeful of the city's restaurants and events.
Voted one of the best local blogs last year by the News and Review, this hip site has been delivering "news, gossip and snark" since 2005 and is searchable by a wide range of categories including burgers, cocktails, and even local idiots.
Podcasts
This Tourcaster podcast will provide you with the basics before you go—a brief history and information on the city's culture, sports, dining, and nightlife scenes.
Download interviews and show segments from the Sacramento Bee's music critic Chris Macias. Celebrities like Joan Jett, Will Smith, and Carlos Santana are featured on past podcasts.
Newspapers
This local paper was recognized for its feature photography with a Pulitzer Prize. They're also known for stellar reporting and the Bee's sleek web design makes it easy to navigate through local news, events, and video. Planning on doing some shopping? Check out the newspaper's thorough listings.
The News and Review is a gold mine of art and culture listings. Browse through theater, book, music, and art reviews; check out the events calendar (free concerts!); or read some of the hundreds of dining reviews.
As one of the country's best-known newspapers, the Los Angeles Times delivers front-line investigative reporting for the California region, but is also packed with lifestyle and culture info. Check out their photo archives for a peek at life in L.A. It's not all US Weekly.
Magazines
Find out who's who in gold country with this glossy monthly that focuses on the hottest trends in business, entertainment, and food that the city has to offer. The magazine has a substantial eat-and-drink section, an annual Best of Sacramento issue, and a comprehensive directory of local services from pedicures to palm readers.
This quarterly newsletter directs readers to Sac's best fresh, locally grown fruits and vegetables and offers seasonal recipes, restaurant and chef profiles, and tips on how to create a more sustainable environment while eating well.
Maps
Search by driving directions, maps, or yellow pages to find your destination. Print out the directions and bring them along on your road trip or walking tour.
Check out About.Com's index to Sacramento map resources, like a Cal State Sacramento map and a map of Sac's airport.
Books
Run River, by Joan Didion (1963)
Didion wrote her first novel right out of college when she was working at Vogue. This gripping story of marriage, adultery, and murder among the great grandchildren of Western pioneers is set along the banks of her native Sacramento.
The Swan: Tales of the Sacramento Valley, by Andrew F. O'Hara (2004)
Written by a retired California Highway Patrolman, these short stories revolve around everyday people, with the Sacramento Valley as the connecting thread between them.
Sacramento: Indomitable City (Making of America Series), by Steven M. Avella (2003)
Historian Avella traces Sac's roots, from its native tribes, to becoming a Western outpost, to its present status as the capital of a state boasting the eighth largest economy in the world.
Historic Photos of Sacramento, by James Scott and Tom Tolley (2007)
This coffee-table volume features black-and-white archival photos that capture the events and flavor of the city's transformation from the late 19th century through World War II hardships and its ascent to a historical and political hub of the Golden State.
Movies
In Old Sacramento (1946)
"Wild" Bill Elliot stars as a gambler with a gunslinging alter ego, "Spanish Jack," in this black and white romp through the Old West. His unlikely romance with a saloon singer (Constance Moore) convinces him to give up his robbing ways, but not before one last, ill-conceived heist.
American Beauty (1999)
This suburban satire swept the Oscars in 1999, and is set around Chicago. But locals know its establishing shots are aerial views of a Sacramento neighborhood. The film stars Hollywood heavyweights Kevin Spacey, Annette Bening, Thora Birch, and Mena Suvari.
Her Minor Thing (2005)
Locally funded and shot, this romantic comedy kicks off as a television reporter (Christian Kane) publicly announces that his girlfriend (Estella Warren) is still a virgin, turning her life upside down. "Sacramento isn't just the backdrop for Her Minor Thing, it's practically another character," hometown writer Jim Meyers told the Bee.