Published: Nov./Dec. 2008 Historic Places Rated: Europe

Austria: Wachau/Melk Abbey

Score: 88

"Well-renovated. A proud monastery in a beautiful landscape. Well-organized guided tours. Good parking facilities."

"The Benedictine Abbey is very impressively maintained both in the extensive well-manicured grounds and the variety of interior rooms open to the public. Our guided tour was extremely informative and lively; you really step back in time. Afterward, we walked downhill through very narrow medieval alleys and staircases into the town, which seemed somewhat touristy along the main street, though well maintained."

"Melk Abbey and the Wachau are not one entity. While the Abbey is a monument, the Wachau is a cultural landscape related to the wine industry."

"Each village and town seems to try to outdo the others in promoting local heritage while maintaining cultural integrity. The abbey at Melk is well managed and never seems crowded. Tourist zones are low-key and commercial establishments do not intrude on the visitor's experiences."

Austria: Graz

Score: 80

"Tourists tend to ignore this gem. It is associated with an important wine-growing valley of Austria, and has the potential to become an important tourist destination."

"Impelled by its role as a European Capital of Culture several years back, Graz invested heavily in eye-catching architecture, cultural programming, and historic preservation. The integration of these is a model for the rest of Europe and the world. Perhaps the best benefit of this smart investment is a renewed sense of self among Graz residents, which bodes well for the future."

"The best heritage city in Austria, in part because of its intact fabric, condition of that fabric, population size and 'localness,' life style, and lack of major tourism intrusion."

"The city plan has done a good job of integrating old and new. The transit system is efficient, easy to use, and extensive. Tourism infrastructure in Graz is well developed."

Belgium: Historic Center of Ghent

Score: 81

"An interesting range of cultural experiences: churches, medieval castle museums, and rich painting collections, well-preserved and -presented."

"A gloriously eclectic city, with an excellent mix of old and new buildings. Needs to work on interpretation and signing to explain and thus help conserve its treasures. Much improved fabric."

"Unlike its neighbor Bruges, Ghent has retained the character of a functioning city rather than an open-air museum."

"Aesthetic appeal is high particularly because the city has not turned into a mono-economy of tourism."

Croatia: Korcula

Score: 74

"It is surely Korcula's picturesque medieval character that attracts me, both in the old fortified town, where I stay, and in the countryside villages with the endless stone fences, vineyards, and olive orchards. Last year, a horrible new road complex and tourism development began scarring a significant central portion of the island, creating disrupting, dangerous chaos in linkages between the centuries-old farm tracks long enjoyed by visitors interested in adventurous hiking and nature."

"A charming Venetian-type town well-embedded into the Dalmatian coastal landscape. Places of historical interest (Marco Polo's birthplace)."

Czech Republic: Medieval Cesky Krumlov

Score: 76

"With both Czech and German history, Cesky Krumlov is one of the most well-preserved medieval towns in Europe."

"Gorgeous preserved village. Castle and other historic buildings show age and wear but maintain high aesthetic appeal. Can be difficult to access (a bit of a walk from train)."

"So far not spoiled by crowds of tourists and managing rather well the economic impulses from tourism."

"Remarkably beautiful, with an exceptional degree of historical authenticity. This is evident particularly in the conservation of the palace theater, the palace gardens, the streetscapes and town vistas. The pressure of tourism was evident in some of the marketing, such as 'torture chambers' attraction and the occasional fake timber beams in restaurant ceilings."

England: Canterbury

Score: 65

"This cathedral town is extraordinarily well preserved. There is a great sense of history and presentation."

"Overwhelmed by visitors and inappropriate development policies, not only around the cathedral but also with respect to the new shopping centers and retail."

"This is a living modern city as well as a World Heritage Site celebrating its ancient heritage and historical antecedents; the two sit side by side in general harmony."

England: Stratford upon Avon

Score: 54

"The historical architecture has been maintained, but the prevalence of Shakespeare- oriented shops and gadgetry detracts from the historical experience."

"Its success is its own worst enemy. The town and infrastructure, as well as the cultural attractions, may be better enjoyed off season, when there are fewer visitors and the town seems more authentic and less stressful. The rather vulgar manner in which William Shakespeare's life and work have been exploited comes as a bit of a disappointment."

"Crowded but fun. Another place overrun by trinket shops."

England: York

Score: 75

"High quality of heritage conservation dating from Roman to modern times. The setting is very attractive, focusing on the Roman walls, the medieval houses and streets, and the cathedral, with the rivers and canals giving geographical and aesthetic diversity. Interpretation of the city's heritage, along with educational interactive presentations, are some of the best in the world."

"A number of small inns and bed-and-breakfasts that have been established within the walls of the old city go out of their way to re-create the ambience of earlier periods."

"The works of the council and Yorkshire Forward are commendable in continuously developing the visitor offer and balancing this with local benefits."

"Big city growth! Traffic congestion. The cathedral and the city walls save the day."

Estonia: Medieval Tallinn

Score: 70

"Breathtaking."

"Historic pearl of the Baltic states, small but very compact downtown with well-preserved and renovated sights and buildings. Good prospects with booming euro economy of Estonia."

"Cruise passengers descend on the destination in hordes; but old town tours are restricted to walking tours, so this is not as detrimental as bus tours would be. The city has become quite expensive, especially restaurants, and for locals this is a problem. Many historic buildings have been turned into hotels; thankfully, many of those are true to the character of the city and the building."

"Real threat is U.K. stag and hen parties taking cheap flights to Tallinn for alcohol and sex."

France: Aix-en-Provence

Score: 80

"The whole city nestled below Cezanne's Mont St. Victoire is culturally significant—especially for artists from around the world."

"The success of the French conservation and tourism-development model here is that the city works primarily for the local resident and almost peripherally for the tourist. Although one of the most popular destinations, there is no sense of being outnumbered by tourists."

"Infrastructure has been extremely well inserted so that state-of-the-art facilities blend seamlessly with the old."

"The market is lovely and really feels like a classic upscale Provencale market. The historic buildings are well maintained. The city provides ample underground parking so Aix still can feel like a pedestrian town. You can get lost exploring the back streets, and barely sense that this is a major tourist destination. It has always been a noble town, and still feels like one."

"Despite huge human pressures, in particular difficulties with car traffic and seasonal tourism invasions, it remains in good shape."

France: Dijon and Bourgogne region

Score: 80

"This region has preserved its unique French qualities befitting a premier wine destination. Some intrusion of inappropriate retail and food outlets is evident in historic Dijon and some of the wine routes at peak times are overcrowded with visitors and a little overdeveloped with visitor facilities. But on the whole, the quality of the cuisine, ambience, and landscape appeal overcome these minor irritations."

France: Fortified Carcassonne

Score: 63

"A small fortified tourist ghetto located in a broader average industrial town."

"Walls are well maintained and the site is spectacular from afar, but inside it is mass tourism and crowded narrow streets."

"Carcassonne, although picturesque, is largely a theme-park medieval destination that is poorly integrated with the modern town. Due to the lack of integration with the actual community, the old town lacks authenticity and culture identity."

"A 19th-century romanticized contrivance. It should long remain so."

France: Lyon historic areas

Score: 77

"A pleasure to amble around: surprising little alleyways, courtyards, and corners to explore. Excellent cuisine. Modern Lyon is fast encroaching however, presumably by local demand (modern flashy shops). Plenty of hotels, but tourism here is non-invasive; Lyon is a large town getting on with its life. Traveler doesn't get the feeling of being one of millions of tourists."

"One of the most impressive destinations in France. An authentic destination almost unspoiled and likely to remain so."

"Remarkable for the quality of its integration within a very dynamic town, itself famous for the quality of its business and recreational amenities."

Germany: Aachen old town

Score: 69

"Charming historic area, with the impressive cathedral as heart of the city."

"A stunning historical aura to Aachen; one feels suitably dwarfed by its buildings and its history. Plenty of tourist information. So far seems to balance nicely its role as tourist destination with daily life."

"Enhanced when you consider that the city center was largely reduced to rubble during World War II."

Germany: Dresden historic areas

Score: 70

"Much effort has been expended in reconstructing cultural buildings in the historic core that were destroyed by bombing in WWII. Frauenkirche church is a recent example."

"Dresden's story is one of the most heartening of the postwar era. Seeing the reconstructed churches and palaces is a wonder."

"Suburbs built between the 1870s and 1920s are a forgotten gem."

"A great pleasure to wander about the Altstadt—Old Town—and along the river Elbe."

"The current discussion about the building of a new river bridge typifies the problems of Dresden: It's in danger of losing so much for short term gain." For more on the controversial bridge project, see Destination Watch in our July/August 2008 issue.

Germany: Munich historic areas

Score: 72

"Largely damaged in World War II. Many historical sites have been reconstructed meticulously to their original grandeur."

"The English Gardens and the numerous suburban parks are the centerpiece of Munich's culture and quality of life."

"High environmental standards; conserves its architectural environment effectively. It is a complex city, and the range of historic sites is not easy for tourists to grasp."

Germany: Potsdam historic areas

Score: 80

"The imprint of Soviet life is rapidly disappearing and excellent restoration work is succeeding it; Potsdam is assuming its deserved place as one of Germany's most important cultural centers. Potsdam is well on its way to a sustainable future."

"Potsdam, easy to reach with public transport from Berlin, has a great deal of history to tell and historic buildings to show."

"The Lenne landscapes are a breath of air—well managed and delightful."

Greece: Meteora

Score: 73

"Well-presented in the few monasteries open to the public. Too many huge tourist buses creeping up the winding road, parking in herds all around the entrances, and disgorging too many visitors at once for the small-scale, fragile nature of the entry areas over the narrow bridges and trails leading up to the monasteries."

"Unique and interesting."

"The appeal of the connection of natural and human-made elements is excellent."

"Various convents are well-maintained but tourism has completely changed the character and integrity."

Greece: Olympia

Score: 65

"Environmentally, the site of the ruins is excellent: hardened paths, wooden steps over ancient walls, beds of pebbles covering floor-tile murals to prevent exposure to the sun."

"An authentic destination that has been partially spoiled not only by the natural disaster of August 2007 but by the absence of any initiative to use the disaster as an opportunity for the establishment of a sustainable tourism model."

"Separation between the antique city and the modern one benefits the experience."

"Increasingly bastardized for some ridiculous vision of Olympism."

"Aesthetic value of Olympia is not as high as symbolic importance."

"Lacks signage and explanations for visitors, though site museum excellent."

Hungary: Budapest historic areas

Score: 64

"Strong historic urban fabric that awaits investment to upgrade the external appearance of many buildings. Progress handicapped by the nature of ownership, which makes renovation difficult."

"The historic center is one of the most beautiful urban landscapes in Europe. However, there is a lack of clear urban planning; typical problems of capital cities—pollution, traffic congestion—also affect historic center."

"Some parts of the city are in a fragile state of conservation. Urban sprawl is a problem."

"Too much concentration of efforts on the tourist areas—and not enough on the surroundings and the rest of the city—makes it somehow seem 'fake.'"

Ireland: Dublin historic areas

Score: 63

"Forty years ago Dublin was a city in decay, but had great character. It has been quite radically regenerated, but despite massive changes and awful traffic problems, retains that character."

"A great city to see. Dublin has adopted the 'Bourbon Street model' to bring life into the old sector of town. Perhaps the level of drinking is a bit high."

"The city still has a very dark and dingy appearance. History abounds."

"Book of Kells is worth the wait in line."

"Buildings have been conserved and streets paved in cobbles, but wear and tear is substantial."

"Distinctly urban, sometimes dirty, but real and largely appealing."

"Always a different sort of place: It remains that way through its recent hectic changes. It will never—I hope—become a 'chocolate box' perfect heritage site."

Italy: Bologna historic areas

Score: 70

"One of the most architecturally interesting sites in Italy."

"A beautiful city center, but showing wear and tear. Also, graffiti on many buildings."

"Bologna manages to keep its appeal in spite of growing crowds and a messy infrastructure. A wonderful place for discoveries."

"Nothing looks like it has been put on specially for tourists. It is not perfectly clean, and traffic can be problematic, but it is a 'real' place."

Italy: San Gimignano

Score: 73

"A wonderful Italian village. It has already been a second-best tourist destination of the area, and I hope it will remain so. It can be spoiled easily."

"High aesthetic appeal, e.g. no spaghetti of overhead power lines, no rusting pipes or blackened flues. Streetscapes very clean."

"The town maintains the look and feel of a historic place. A jewel, but a much-trodden jewel."

"Severely hit by people coming to live out their Tuscany fantasies, and suffers under the onslaught."

"In danger of become a kind of Tuscan theme park."

"Tourism includes crowds of day trippers, but preferable to hotel construction, which would not be consistent with the character or architecture of the town."

Italy: Verona historic areas

Score: 62

"Well preserved, but overloaded with tourism, especially spring-autumn, with several bottlenecks in terms of visitor numbers/space (Juliet's house is probably the worst example)."

"Still maintains a strong cultural integrity, primarily through the operation of the opera festival and associated events in the Roman amphitheater."

Lithuania: Vilnius historic center

Score: 69

"The environment and historic fabric have been beautifully preserved, and tourism seems to be booming. New development in the historic core doesn't intrude. Interpretation of the dark history of World War II is heading in the right direction, but not yet there. Tourism facilities seem well placed, especially those across the river (high-rise hotels). Since the city is now on a very popular circuit (Baltics cruise and land packages), the future is not clear."

"Interesting large historical center with a lot of green space and many sights."

Poland: Warsaw Stare Mjasto

Score: 67

"The old town of Warsaw, largely bombed in WWII, is one of the most impressive post-WWII reconstructions. Each building was meticulously reconstructed, down to the replica window glass. Since the majority of Warsaw was redeveloped as a centerpiece of socialism, the old town has the feel of a medieval theme park, though the local patrons do their best to maintain the authenticity of the sector."

"After visiting other major cities in Central Europe, it's very powerful to realize the extent of Warsaw's destruction in World War II. However, with increased tourism and development there's still a struggle to keep it authentic, to connect with other historic sites in the region, and to minimize the 'Disneyland' effect."

"Impressed by the quality of both organized and spontaneous cultural activity taking place."

Romania: Sighisoara & Saxon Transylvania

Score: 59

"Thank the legend of Dracula for preserving this wonderful fortress town. The old city remains remarkably preserved, although growth threatens to overrun surrounding lands."

"Transylvania is the sleeper of European tourism, and the Saxon story is one of the most intriguing pieces of 700-year-old migratory history ever. When I visited in September 2007, Sighisoara was undergoing massive renovation in building edifices, cobbled streets, etc., so many areas were messy and chaotic. There were other Saxon villages and fortified Saxon church communities in better repair, but Sighisoara is the largest. It is also a real town rather than a 'museum,' which adds something. Unlike other Saxon areas, there were a lot of dynamic beggars—you had to watch your pockets."

"Open countryside remains cultivated principally in small plots; a very pleasant and beautiful rolling-hills landscape."

"Sighisoara has been turned into a faux version of a traditional town; many of the pristine Saxon towns are underdeveloped and half abandoned."

Scotland: Edinburgh historic areas

Score: 76

NOTE: These evaluations were made before the Scottish government approved the controversial Caltongate development for the historic center of Edinburgh. For more on this issue, see Destination Watch in our October 2008 issue.

"A spectacular natural setting and has a built environment from the old town to the new town that creates a unique blend."

"Changed over the last 40 years from a dull, reticent city to a vibrant one."

"Exquisite blend of past and present, without the kowtowing to tourists."

Sweden: Stockholm's Gamla Stan

Score: 80

"The architectural integrity of Stockholm's Old Town—Gamla Stan—has been maintained. Even the intense tourism retailing appears to have maintained cultural integrity rather than taken away from it. One of the most attractive old city areas in northern Europe."

"An urban heritage benchmark."

"Condition of architectural heritage is mainly beautiful, with a lot of fine examples of very sophisticated restoration techniques."

"It doesn't get any better than this. Stockholm is beautiful, clean, and dynamic."

"During my walking tour alone in the historic center I felt secure and welcome."

"Aesthetic appeal in all seasons."