The strange yet charming amalgam of serene wildlife preserves, outlandish street festivals, literary landmarks, wealthy retirees, and seasoned fishermen (and women) make Key West so unique it can be hard to comprehend. For some, it's an endless party. Others find a sanctuary in which to write or meditate, and many consider it to be the sportfishing capital of the world. Despite pricey real estate and flocks of tourists, the spirit of Key West remains the same. Rugged individualism is still the established religion, and the tin roofs and wraparound porches on the new housing developments evoke the past. Natives, or Conchs, live alongside artists, ecology buffs, naval airmen, and a large gay population. And they all tolerantly observe the over half a million tourists annually who spill out of cruise ships in the Seaport.
48 Hours in Key West
Text by Mark Spivak
Here are six top experiences in the continental U.S.'s southernmost city.
1. Commune With the Dolphins Capt. Victoria Impallomeni has guided some 33,000 visitors through the Key West National Wildlife Refuge, bringing them up close and personal with one of the friendliest forms of marine life. "I try to blend the scientific and the mystical," she says. "I connect with the dolphins on a level of vibration and intuition. "Impallomeni has speakers set into the hull of her boat, and plays music to attract dolphins, but on most days this technique is just insurance—after her 33 years on the water, the seagoing mammals practically seek her out.
2. Catch the Sunset at Mallory Square Tennessee Williams supposedly launched the local custom of greeting the sunset with a cocktail. "It's more than a party—it's a sacrament," says Will Soto, a high-wire performer and juggler who has watched the Sunset Celebration grow from less than one hundred people in 1976 to a nightly crowd of thousands today. "It revives the old practice of assembling in the town square to share important communal events." As the sun disappears into the Gulf of Mexico, the group is entertained by buskers, craftsmen, fortune- tellers, and purveyors of street food such as conch fritters and Key Lime tea. For a quieter vantage point, locals prefer the beach at Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park.
3. Taste What's Hot in Town Fine dining arrived in Key West in 1983 with the opening of Louie's Backyard (700 Waddell Ave.), still known for its Caribbean-influenced menu, extensive wine list, and oceanfront views. Residents are buzzing about Santiago's Bodega, an inventive tapas restaurant that offers more than 30 dishes on a rotating basis, including yellowtail ceviche or pinchos morunos (marinated pork kebabs). Looking for a fiery snack? Pepper's of Key West carries 500-plus varieties of hot sauce, nearly a quarter of which can be sampled at the complimentary tasting bar. "Originally, we catered to 'chiliheads,'" says current owner Pete Legrady, "but we also carry an assortment of sweet gourmet sauces and high-end barbecue, and we ship to Australia as easily as Ohio."
4. Take It Slow in the Dry Tortugas Ponce de Leon named this cluster of arid islands nearly 70 miles west of Key West after the numerous sea turtles, or tortugas, he found here. Today, Dry Tortugas National Park attracts visitors who arrive by ferry, high-speed catamaran, and seaplane. Activities include camping by prearrangement next to Fort Jefferson on Garden Key (the largest brick structure in the hemisphere—built by the U.S. Army, used as a prison after the Civil War, and abandoned in 1874), bird-watching, and some of the best snorkeling in the area for viewing the underwater ecosystem of the Keys.
5. Pay a Visit to Papa "He was inspired by the magic and energy of the island, as well as the unpretentious atmosphere," says Dave Gonzales, tour guide at the Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum. Papa lived in the house at 907 Whitehead Street for the better part of a decade. Attractions include the writing studio (complete with his Royal portable typewriter) in which he wrote four books and many of his short stories, as well as about 60 cats (descendants of the original six-toed cat he received as a gift). The first place Hemingway stayed in Key West, Casa Antigua Hotel at 314 Simonton Street, is now a private home.
6. Buy Island-Inspired Goods Key West Aloe is famous for its cosmetics, fragrances, and skin care products made from tropical ingredients such as frangipani, papaya, and coconut. Cuban immigrants Roberto and Margarita Lopez founded Kino Sandals in 1966; earthy smells still pervade the factory today, as sandaleros assemble the footwear by hand from natural leather and rubber. Even more intriguing is the story of Jack and Liliane Anderson, who crossed the Atlantic from France in their sailboat and founded the Local Color boutique. "We make crafts and clothing that reflect the unique lifestyle of the island," says their son Jesse. Local Color's four outlets feature lightweight linen apparel and jewelry made with Larimar, a gemstone native to the Caribbean.
FAST FACTS The continental U.S.A.'s southernmost city was discovered by Ponce de Leon in 1513, became a Spanish colony, and was deeded to the U.S. in the 1800s. The Conch Republic is closer to Havana than it is to Miami, both geographically and culturally. You can explore by foot, bike, or rented scooter.
Published in the January/February 2009 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Text by Rachael Dunlap
To help you navigate the Conch Republic's many layers, Traveler has compiled these resources—local publications, blogs, books, websites, and more—all useful in planning your getaway.
Websites
Bud N' Mary's Marina Fishing Report
Looking to cast a line during your stay in Key West? Check out the fishing reports provided by Bud N' Mary's marina in Islamorada. You will find fish tales from recent expeditions as well as information on boat rentals, backcountry fishing guides, and more. If you need convincing, check out the picture gallery to see what others have reeled in.
Florida Keys Council of the Arts
This website, which is maintained by the Florida Keys Arts Council, is a great resource for those who plan to take advantage of the area's bountiful creativity. "This Week in the Arts" is a weekly newsletter that highlights upcoming exhibits, artist receptions, festivals, and performances. Planning ahead? Check out the online calendar.
This online dining directory, which is divided by cuisines, provides menus and contact information for many of Key West's restaurants. The site is remarkably simple, with no reviews or ads—just menus, links, and a downloadable map of the area.
Florida Keys Diving & Snorkeling
Check out this user-friendly site for diving and snorkeling information (as well as other general Keys information) from the official Keys tourism board. Learn about some of the most populated underwater destinations off Key West and look over the listings of local diving and snorkeling charters.
Blogs
"Paradise or paradox; it always depends on how we look at it." Under that headline, readers will see Key West as Arthur Winstanley sees it. He updates this personal blog regularly with photos, observations, videos, and musings about life in Caya Hueso ("Island of Bones," the name given to the area by Spanish explorers). The subject matter varies from post to post, but as a whole, the blog reveals a glimpse of Key West as the locals see it.
"Ramblings" doesn't exactly describe the entries in this blog, but the brief, to-the-point listings posted here by the Grand Guest House B&B in Key West are certainly helpful. Find out about upcoming local events, sunset times, and even some local news by checking this blog a few days before your visit to Key West.
Podcasts
Podcasts of the Key West Literary Seminar
For two decades, the Key West Literary Seminar has been drawing writers and lovers of literature to the island for lectures, readings, and discussions. Their website, which is an archive in progress, boasts an array of podcasts recorded at the seminar. Some recordings, including Mark Doty's reading of his poem "Seagrape Valentine," pay tribute to the character and landscape of Key West.
Davis on Draft—Remote Brewery Spotlight—Kelly's Key West
This episode of the Davis's beer appreciation podcast was recorded at Kelly's Caribbean Bar, Grill, and Brewery in Key West. If you are a fan of finding local brews when you travel, you may want to take a listen. Aside from gabbing about beer-related topics, the hosts taste and review what the brewpub has to offer. (click "download episode" to listen.)
Newspapers & Magazines
This website hosts a plethora of local publications on a wide range of topics—all available online. For daily local news, check out the Key West Citizen. Browse the local magazine Solares Hill (published weekly) for longer pieces on local politics, arts, and happenings. And Paradise is a useful weekly entertainment guide, complete with photos and detailed listings.
Featuring news from a variety of local publications, KeysNet.com draws content from the Florida Keys Keynoter, the Reporter, Keys Sunday, and the Key West Keynoter. Though the individual publications are only available in their entirety in print, this website provides a good overview—complete with fishing information, local news, photo galleries, and more.
Maps
Florida Keys and Key West Interactive Map
Click on a specific area in the Keys and customize the official visitor information that you see on your map. From boat rentals to boutiques, this map provides a variety of information for your visit.
View the route the Conch Train Tour follows, or plan your own tour on foot. This map of Key West, broken into different neighborhoods, pinpoints various tourist attractions and provides a brief description of each.
Though there are free maps available in various locations around Key West, you may want to splurge (about six bucks) on this go-anywhere option. Made of tear-proof, waterproof microfiber, this general map of Key West can be crumpled up and tossed into any bag or pocket. Plus, it is reusable, so no need to waste paper—or your patience (no folding required).
Books
Quit Your Job and Move to Key West, by David Sloan and Christopher Shultz (2003)
The tongue-in-cheek humor in this guide to life on Key West separates it from other guidebooks about the area, and so does the content. In the first chapter alone, the authors (both Key West residents) make it clear that the book is about living in Key West, not just visiting. Despite that fact, there is an abundance of helpful information in the book, both for tourists and for prospective residents.
Confessions of a Key West Cabby, by Michael Suib (2003)
Written by former Miami Herald columnist Michael Suib, this compilation of vignettes brings together some of Suib's more colorful experiences as a Key West taxi driver. According to Denny Johnson of the Chicago Tribune, the book "captures for us the humor, absurdity, sadness, and sometimes wacky personality of his island paradise."
To Have and Have Not, by Ernest Hemingway (1937)
Penned by one of Key West's most famous residents, To Have and Have Not is Hemingway's only novel set on the island. The novel did not receive the critical acclaim garnered by A Farewell to Arms, which was published eight years earlier. But for those hoping to delve into the town's literary history, the story of Harry Morgan—a Key West man making a living by smuggling illegal goods from Cuba—is practically required reading.
The Best of Mandy Bolen's Tan Lines: A Hilarious Look at Key West and the Chaos of Everyday Life Everywhere, by Mandy Bolen (2003)
As a columnist for the Key West Citizen, Bolen spends her days observing the daily ins-and-outs of the quirky island. This book, a compilation of her humorous musings on life in Key West and elsewhere, is a great introduction to Key West and one of its longtime residents.
Key West Photo Safari, by Rob O' Neal (2005)
Page after page of photos by local photographer Rob O' Neal and quotes from Key West residents of all shapes and sizes make this book an excellent first glimpse of Florida's southernmost city.
Novel Destinations: Literary Landmarks From Jane Austen's Bath to Ernest Hemingway's Key West, by Shannon McKenna Schmidt and Joni Rendon (2008)
Key West is one of many locations highlighted in this guidebook for roving bibliophiles. Chock full of anecdotes and fun factoids, the writers encourage readers to "embark on the literary grand tour of a lifetime." In Key West, scope out some of Hemingway's favorite haunts and beverages. For updates on the literary landmarks in this book, check out the novel destinations website.
Images of America: Key West, by Lynn M. Homan, Thomas Reilly (2000)
For all you history buffs out there, authors Homan and Reilly scoured the image collections of the Key West Art and Historical Society, the Monroe County Public Library, and other local sources to compile this pictorial history of Key West. Containing over 200 photos accompanied by detailed captions, this book allows visitors (and residents) to travel back in time and see Key West as it was in years past.
Key West Tales: Stories, by John Hersey (1996)
This collection of poignant vignettes interweaves icons of historic Key West with more contemporary stories of life in Florida's southernmost city. Published posthumously, these stories come together to form an intimate portrait of a unique community.
Movies
The Rose Tattoo (1955)
This award-winning film, scripted by playwright Tennessee Williams, was filmed in the Conch Republic. Anna Magnani, who won an Oscar for her performance, is Serafina Delle Rose, a recently widowed Sicilian woman living in the American South. Though pained by her discovery that her husband had been unfaithful, Serafina finds herself falling for a man who reminds her of him. Key West is little more than a backdrop for this drama, but watching this movie may augment your visit to the town—Williams himself called it home for a while.
Key West: City of Colors (2003)
Key West's sizable gay population is a focal point in this short documentary, which examines relationships, acceptance, and diversity in the small island community. The centerpiece of the film is the community's celebration of the 25th anniversary of the Rainbow Flag. Revealing interviews with local residents about life in Key West are intertwined with shots of locals stretching the longest Rainbow Flag in history across the island.
Reap the Wild Wind (1942)
Set in the 1840s in Key West, this tall tale of two men rivaling for a feisty Southern belle entertains with dashing gentlemen (including a young John Wayne), pretty ladies, shipwrecks, and giant squids. This outlandish, action-packed drama reveals little about the "true Key West," but it's entertaining all the same.