It's been called the smartest city in America, the thinnest city in America, the best place for a runner or an überjock, and the top green and clean city in the United States. You have to wonder: Where is this perfect place? To find it, head about an hour's drive outside Denver to Boulder, Colorado, a city of 100,000 people and a university town at the foot of the Rockies' Front Range. "You've got 45,000 acres of open space and a hell of a natural park," says Jim Philips, a naturalist for the city of Boulder, explaining its charms. But that's not all: "It's the air and the mountains—it's everything."
48 Hours in Boulder
Text by Janelle Nanos
Boulder wins raves for, oh, just about everything. Here are seven must-dos.
1. Hop on a Bike The best way to explore Boulder is by bicycle (the number of bikes is nearly equal to the number of households, and they plow some major bike paths before roads when it snows). "You can get anywhere in the city by bike more easily than you can by car," says Elizabeth Train of Bikes Belong, a nonprofit group promoting bike use throughout the U.S. Pedal along the Boulder Creek Path, a paved seven-mile stretch that will take you from downtown to the base of Fourmile Canyon. Playgrounds, parks, and grassy patches scattered along the route are perfect for picnics.
2. Eat Local The city has embraced the locavore (local food) movement, and no place does local better than The Kitchen , voted the city's best restaurant overall by Boulder Weekly this past year. Nearly every item in this zero-waste bistro's decor is hewn from recycled products. Large chalkboards on the wall list the day's menu of free-range meats, veggies, and cheeses—and where each was sourced. Choices may include duck confit, hand-rolled gnocchi, and the Eton Mess—an aptly named dessert of berries and cream. Down Pearl Street, the James Beard Award-winning chef of Frasca is "getting raves all over the country," for his cuisine inspired by the tastes of Friuli, Italy, says Greg Glasgow, features and entertainment editor at the Daily Camera.
3. Graze the Market Boulder insiders turn up early on Saturday mornings to grab the freshest items from the 13th Street farmers market. Should you decide to sleep in, you'll still find a lush variety of local produce, cheeses, honey, coffee, and Boulder regulars all out on display. Compile a fantastic lunch with some freshly prepared tamales, gyros, and Sisters' Pantry dumplings. "I stand in line for the dumplings every time I'm home on a Saturday," says Keith Desrosiers, executive director of the nonprofit Center for ReSource Conservation.
4. Hike the Flatirons The essence of Boulder's beauty lies in a commitment made over a century ago by the city's founders. The creation of an open-space system, a set of land-use limitations to control the city's boundaries and to corral sprawl, allowed for over 45,000 protected acres around the city; area taxpayers now kick in money to support its preservation. "The system is a jewel, it's the best part of Boulder," says naturalist Jim Philips. Over 90 miles of trails weave throughout the Front Range, great for hikers, mountain bikers, animal lovers, and runners. Don't be discouraged if a world-class athlete passes you on a trail: Many Olympians train in Boulder, thanks to its high altitude and the city's "whole concept of well-being," says Philips.
5. Take Tea For four years, artisans in Boulder's sister city of Dushanbe, Tajikistan, worked to create their gift to the city. Today, the iconic Teahouse is an authentic representation of Persian art and architecture, and is the only building of its kind in the Western Hemisphere. The walls, ceiling, and columns were carved and painted by hand, while ceramic tiles lining the outside walls depict the Tree of Life. The brunch menu offers Indian curry omelets, pancakes, and orange focaccia French toast. The teas are as fun to say aloud—oolong, yerba maté, rooibos—as they are to drink; they're served with a tiny hourglass, so you know how long to let them steep.
6. Shop Pearl Street Pearl Street is the central artery of independently owned shops and galleries through which all things run. Often packed with University of Colorado students when school is in session, in summer it brims with street performers. Pick up leather coats and high-end jeans at Weekends, fawn over the super-soft sweaters at Knit Wit, wander the lamplit shelves at the Boulder Bookstore, and let your senses guide you at Savory Spice Shop, where glass jars of seasonings and spices line the walls. The west end of Pearl is slightly quieter and more hip.
7. Get Smarter The Colorado branch of the Chautauqua Movement, an early 20th-century effort to bring people together to discuss ideas and issues of public interest, is considered the best-preserved Chautauqua site in the West, and has been designated a National Historic Landmark. Rangers offer guided hikes on 40 acres, and concerts and films are held in the auditorium throughout the summer.
Fast Facts Boulder is 5,430 feet above sea level: Drink lots of water to deal with thinner air. It has four distinct seasons, with great skiing in winter and summer highs reaching the 80s. It boasts more sunny days than San Diego or Miami.
Boulder Hotel Finder: Four Insider Picks
St. Julien Hotel and Spa Beyond its role as a hub for the city's happy hour, this sleek hotel has 201 rooms boasting posh bed linens, a 10,000-square-foot spa and gym, and an artful main lobby. From $239.
Hotel Boulderado The first luxury hotel in the city, this 160-room Victorian-era lodging is still one of the nicest in Boulder. Designated a Historic Hotel of America, the property has a cherrywood staircase, an original Otis elevator, and a stained glass lobby ceiling (it once collapsed during a heavy snowfall, but has since been restored). Many rooms provide a view of the Rockies and downtown Boulder. From $234.
Chautauqua This is perhaps the quintessential Boulder stay. Cottages (from one to three bedrooms) cater to nature lovers who like to roll out of bed and hike the Flatirons. The pet-friendly accommodations offer simple, clean furnishings and full kitchens, plus a porch to watch the sunsets. From $137.
Boulder Outlook Hotel Staff pick for favorite hotel in the 2008 Best of Boulder listings, the Outlook is the city's first zero-waste hotel. It's conveniently located close to the University of Colorado campus. From $69.
Published in the July/August 2009 issue of National Geographic Traveler.
Text by Rachael Dunlap
Boulder, Colorado truly is a top city. Boasting a world-class university, a thriving art scene, over 90 miles of trails, and an environmentally friendly mentality to boot, Boulder is one of America's most dynamic small cities. Before you dive in, take a look at our list of recommended websites, maps, books, and local publications to familiarize yourself with this gem at the foot of the Flatirons.
Blogs and Podcasts
Cycling is a way of life in Boulder. There are plenty of multi-use pedestrian paths in and around the city, but true die-hards head to the mountains. This blog, focused specifically on mountain biking, is full of great tips on local trails. Check out the top navigation bar to select the type of trail—easy, flowy, rocky or technical—you are looking to bike during your visit. Bonus: Lots of great photos of the area.
Stay up-to-date on the region's music scene by checking out Club Notes before your visit. The blog features information on local music festivals and upcoming shows in Boulder, Denver, and the surrounding region.
Written by a group of Boulder professionals who use the local coffee shops as their secondary offices, this blog is dedicated to reviewing the city's many java joints. If you're in need of a caffeine jolt, or just a place to rest your legs, check out this blog for the inside scoop.
Though not a downloadable podcast, you can tune in to local music selections from Colorado Daily's radio station. Select music by genre, or select the "All Genres" link to listen to a random selection of Boulder-area music.
Websites
Published by the Boulder Convention and Visitors Bureu, this weekly synopsis provides a day-by-day hotlist of drink specials, film screenings and local activities.
Boulder Community Network Entertainment Center
One of the hardest things about planning a trip is knowing where to start. This online community portal offers a categorized listing of various Boulder County entertainment resources. It's a great place to start browsing things to do, musical performances to attend, and places to eat.
Boulder Arts Resource Calendar of Events
Planning to indulge your artistic side during your visit to Boulder? Browse this community calendar by day, month, or event type to find hands-on workshops, kid-friendly plays, and artist receptions to attend.
Whether you prefer to bike on mountain trails or smooth blacktop, the Boulder Cycling Club likely has a something for you. Check the club's calendar for upcoming cycling events and group rides.
Newspapers and Magazines
For a wide array of national, state, and local news, check out the Daily Camera. The online version features an up-to-date weather forecast as well as recreation and entertainment sections.
This weekly local publication prides itself on its "no-holds-barred journalism" and opinion writing. Pick up a free copy for in-depth features, or go online to access special edition publications, such as the Best of Boulder issue, or the Annual Manual.
This publicly-owned daily publication got its start on the University of Colorado Campus in 1892. Though no longer published on campus, the paper maintains a relatively young readership and focuses primarily on campus and local news. Pick up a copy, or check out the online version for local restaurant reviews, tips on local drink specials, and the Buffzone—a section devoted to CU sports updates.
Boulder Magazine may only be published three times each year, but the publication's website is updated year-round. Read articles from the most recent issue, or check out the "Local Events" section to get the scoop on Boulder County's attractions, art events, and annual festivities such as the Colorado Dragon Boat Festival or Frozen Dead Guy Days in Nederland (they aren't as morbid as the name suggests).
Maps
Boulder Convention and Visitors Bureau Maps
The Boulder Visitors Bureau has compiled several useful maps—including a map of breweries in the front range as well as an art walk along 28th Street—on one, easy-to-access website.
Denver International Airport Regional Map
This easy-to-read map of the Denver International Airport and surrounding areas makes getting from the airport to Boulder an easy feat.
With aptly named bus routes such as the HOP, the SKIP and the JUMP, Boulder's Community Transportation Network (CTN) does the navigation for you. Check out this comprehensive map when planning daily excursions.
Boulder Bicycle and Pedestrian Map
Boulder is truly a cyclist's paradise. Before you navigate the city on two wheels, consult this detailed map. Streets with bike lanes are clearly marked, as are multi-use pedestrian paths.
Open Space and Mountain Parks Trail Map
Boasting 45,000 acres of protected public land and over 90 miles of trails, the Open Space and Mountain Park System is truly a gem. Plan your outdoor excursions with this zoomable trail map. For more information about a particular trail, consult this OSMP Trailhead chart.
Downtown and University Hill Parking Map
Boulder has ample on-street metered parking (a three-hour limit is common), but if you are looking for a larger parking structure within the city, this color-coded interactive map is very useful.
Books
Wait Until Spring, Bandini, by John Fante
The first in a series of novels about Arturo Bandini, a young Italian American dreaming of becoming a writer, this book follows Bandini from Colorado to Los Angeles and through a series of difficult family issues. Fante, born into an Italian immigrant family, grew up in small-town Colorado
1933 Was a Bad Year, by John Fante
Published posthumously, this novel tells the story of 17-year-old Dominic Molise, and Italian-American yearning to pursue his dream of playing baseball despite pressure from his father to take over the family business. Though set in the small, fictional town of Roper, Colorado, a few Boulder landmarks, such as Pearl and Arapahoe Streets make appearances in the text.
Boulder: 1859-1919, by Mona Lambrecht and the Boulder History Museum
Attention, history buffs: this book, written by Boulder native and historian Mona Lambrecht in conjunction with the Boulder History museum, examines the historic elements—the gold rush, railroads, and tourism—that shaped the Boulder we see today. Filled with archival photographs and historic anecdotes, this book provides Boulder visitors and natives a glimpse into the history of the region.
Switzerland Trail of America, by Forrest Crossen
This illustrated history of the narrow-gauge lines that ran west of Boulder, Colorado, at the turn of the century boasts over 300 photos of the railroads, the people, and the towns of Boulder County. The original hardcover edition has become a collectors' item.
Movies
Grandpa's in the Tuff Shed (1998) and Grandpa's Still in the Tuff Shed (2003)
These were both filmed in nearby Nederland by Robin and Kathy Beeck. According to Kim Farin, the Boulder County Film Commissioner, these "short, humorous documentaries about home-style cryogenics won awards and cult status" (read: Nederland Frozen Dead Guy Days).
About Schmidt (2002)
This award-winning film, starring Jack Nicholson as a former insurance tycoon struggling to accept his own retirement and the death of his wife, was filmed in Boulder as well as in Denver.
Fifty (1999)
This film takes you all over the world, showcasing top skiers, snowboarders, and exotic locations, but it also celebrates the career of the legendary, Boulder-based, winter-sports filmmaker Warren Miller. For more of Miller's amazing footage and dry, witty narration, check out some of his other films, including Off the Grid (2006) and Storm (2002).
Catch and Release (2006)
This romantic comedy, starring Jennifer Garner, Kevin Smith, and Timothy Olyphant, was filmed in Boulder County and features the regions gorgeous scenery.