Published: November/December 2009 133 Places Rated: Africa
Text by Jay Walljasper

Ethiopia: Lalibela and Rock-Hewn Churches
Score: 52

"The least known marvel of the world," Lalibela was a New Jerusalem for Ethiopian Christians in the 1100s. Today, tourist facilities are primitive, erosion is a threat, and locals have little encouragement to protect the heritage. However, the 11 churches are "spectacular."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Lalibela is a fascinating place, as is all of Ethiopia, but the culture needs to benefit more from tourism. When I was at Lalibela, the condition of the structures was relatively good, but they were getting ready to make some changes to accommodate tourism—for better or for worse—which I haven't seen. There was almost no information available about the rock-hewn churches or about site protection, and tourists were free to wander, touch, etc."

"This may be the least-known and -visited marvel in the world. This is just as well, as its carrying capacity is quite limited. The churches are spectacular, but the overall experience has some unpleasant elements, including unaggressive but persistent hassling, poor waste management, and uncertain benefits to the community. The EU recently placed large but fairly unobtrusive roofs over the major churches, which is encouraging. Further hope lies in a major effort by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, with World Bank funding, set to begin later this year."

"Very interesting site, but it is threatened by modern development and use. One of the most important sites in Africa from an architectural point of view. Local communities use it, which any conservation plan has to take into consideration. The fabric of the buildings is under threat. There is a need for management plan to reconcile the various demands on the site. Excellent site to visit."

"Primitive tourism facilities, and tour companies often bring their own toilets. But the destination has huge potential as an international draw."

Kenya: Masai Mara
Score: 53

This park inhabited by the Maasai people "remains a jewel." Summer wildlife migrations are "the greatest show on Earth!" Poaching is down and conditions for the Maasai are improving,but safari vehicles tear up the land and "wildlife populations have declined by about 60 percent in 30 years."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Poaching is down and conservation is up, with new biogas fueling for the Maasai huts, so women don't have to walk for hours scouring the land for firewood. Children are finally getting a proper education, with many of the brighter Maasai continuing their education in Nairobi. They're also learning the importance of wildlife viewing. Numbers of visitors at the park are still high, but they're talking about having limits."

"Relatively quiet when I was there, but any sighting of one of the Big Five animals quickly attracted numerous vans and jeeps. The local Maasai village we visited seemed well-equipped to both teach visitors about the culture and maintain reasonable distance from it."

"Something of a mixed bag. There are incredible environmental, ecological, social, and aesthetic assets. In some areas of the Mara these are fairly well protected, in others—especially close to the more mass-tourism accommodation facilities—there is significant degradation of the social and ecological integrity of the area."

"While the Mara has an abundance of most wildlife species found in Kenya, it is under immense threat from uncontrolled tourism numbers and related development. Corruption in the local council over use of revenues from the park gives rise to ill feeling among the surrounding communities. The major water source, the Ewaso Nyiro River, is fast drying up due to deforestation."

South Africa: Kruger National Park
Score: 70

This is "Africa's Yellowstone—a beautiful, well-managed park, but dangerously overloaded" with eager nature lovers. Local communities need to have more share in the park's successes.

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"This is Africa's equivalent to Yellowstone, a beautiful, well-managed, but dangerously over-loved park. The pressures on management to generate local income, protect the resource, integrate the employee base, and keep everyone safe and happy create a razor-thin tightrope that is being walked as well as could be realistically hoped for."

"Kruger continues to be a huge tourist draw card with a good infrastructure, but environmental sustainability is questionable. Invasive plants and poaching are big issues. Cultural tourism seems to be growing and is generally well handled."

"Kruger is a good example of trans-boundary conservation, but fails badly at integrating population with the surrounding community. More must be done seriously to benefit the local black African community."

"Wildlife is often more elusive here than in Botswana or Tanzania. Invasive species are a growing problem; even park staff are helping spread non-native plants."

"All in all, Kruger National Park remains a great wildlife tourism destination and is well managed despite the complex sociological pressures that the area faces as a sort of 'island' in a sea of growing human development. The opening of partnerships with neighboring communities and conservation partnerships that include trans-frontier conservation areas are counteracting the pressures."

Seychelles
Score: 69

This archipelago nation of 115 islands off the east coast of Africa generally deserves its "reputation as a green destination," though "more could be done to protect local fish and sea turtles." Good record maintaining "social and cultural integrity."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"A great destination, where tourism development has been managed quite successfully up to now. Well-done sustainable tourism initiatives in the remote islands and a great place for marine environment, with the exception of the waters in front of Victoria."

"The Seychelles has a reputation as a green destination caring for the natural environment. This is generally true, though there are issues with the development of hotels in some fragile areas. Marine environment is well cared for, and lagoons are full of fish and turtles. High marks for social and cultural integrity and built-heritage care. Generally clean. Negative points are an over-reliance on non-Seychellois labor in the tourism sector and increasing crime."

"The marine resources of the Seychelles are of great international concern. Shark finning has only recently been prohibited, and although there are more MPAs (Marine Protected Areas) in the Seychelles than in any other Indian Ocean archipelago, a lot more could be done to protect local fish, whale sharks, and sea turtles."

"There is a big problem with invasive alien species, a problem that is seldom noticed by visitors but that specialists will find alarming."

Tanzania: Serengeti Plain
Score: 71

"An amazingly beautiful place and a rich ecosystem in terms of wildlife."The fabled Serengeti Plain has jumped 10 points since 2006 thanks in part to "improved stewardship." Local guides are "first-rate." Still, Maasai assertions that tour operators are seizing some Maasai lands illegally need to be addressed.

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"I've known the Serengeti Plain for 40 years and it remains, thankfully, one of the natural wonders of the world, still offering fabulous game viewing and a sense of vastness, emptiness, and solitude. Guides are generally first rate and increasingly drawn from local communities. Although tourism has grown substantially, the number of hotels has been kept fairly low. Several at the Ngorongoro Crater are, however, over-the-top ostentatious—&Beyond's architectural monstrosity for example—and detract from the natural wonder. Tensions remain as well with the Maasai living on the borders. While a number of lodges and tour operators are working with and providing real benefits for the Maasai and others in the area—Dorobo Safaris is a fine example—there are real conflicts with other operators who have been accused by the local residents of taking lands illegally. Tensions exist as well over hunting blocs. Government policies need to be stronger to protect local rights and provide benefits to surrounding communities. If this and control over types and number of accommodations are accomplished, long-term sustainability is possible."

"Hugely appealing on all fronts—amazing ecosystem and terrain. Appears to have done a much better job than the Masai Mara in prioritizing the environment over uncontrolled tourism. Appears to take on more considerations with respect to locals, but certainly not to the degree necessary for long-term sustainable development and quality of life. Outlook is good to great—continue rigid controls on vehicles and development."

"I worked on the design of a lodge adjacent to the park and visited several times. The potential of this region is huge, the issues equally so. Poaching needs to be reduced, which is likely to happen only if alternative jobs become available. The small upscale development/tourism that is prevalent has the potential to invigorate the region while minimizing impact."

"Still a fantastic place, though it does seem that poaching problems have increased recently. Aesthetic appeal and environment make this (along with Ngorongoro Crater) one of the greatest natural places in east Africa. Government makes a serious effort to manage it well, though always with room for improvement."

"Guides make a huge effort to explain wildlife, flora, and culture; however, their language skills are still deficient and the tourist goes away with little understanding of some of the problems they are trying to address. There is a need to train guides better so their message does not go astray; guides are the backbone of tourism and the ones whose message can make a difference."

Tanzania: Kilimanjaro
Score: 58

Everyone knows that the famous snows are melting; what we don't hear as much about are the mounds of garbage left by the growing numbers of hikers. The good news: Trails are "well maintained"; camping sites and huts are in "good shape"; guides are well trained and "proud of being able to work in such a magnificent location."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"I climbed Kilimanjaro in May 2004 and was sad to see a lot of garbage at the summit. Along the route it was mostly fine, but we were on the recently re-opened and underused Rongai route. My understanding is that the Machame, a more popular route, can be quite littered. The loss of the glacier at the summit in 2004 was significant. Locals were informed about the destination as a tourist attraction and had an understanding of Kilimanjaro's importance as a source of water for low-lying areas."

"The high entrance fees to this national park keep the tourist numbers low. The paths to the top are well-maintained and generally pretty clean. Also the huts and camping sites are in good shape. The guides and porters are all trained and licensed and generally proud of being able to work in such a magnificent location. Overall, I have few complaints about this beautiful mountain area."

"The main issues on Kilimanjaro include managing overcrowding and waste/trash to maintain the quality of the experience. Other issues: the working conditions for porters; training guides to be able to offer tourists a high-quality, genuine experience; and participation of communities around the mountain in tourism activities. In general, Kilimanjaro is doing okay and continues to be a major tourist draw with a generally satisfying experience, but faces challenges on all those fronts."

Zimbabwe/Zambia: Victoria Falls
Score: 57

"The long-term sustainability of these falls depends on the political situation" in Zimbabwe. "Uncontrolled tourism development is currently evident on Zambia side." The cascades themselves are "astonishing."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"The falls themselves remain the world-class feature that they have always been, but encroaching development pressures are starting to have a negative impact."

"Great ecological qualities, friendly folks, wonderful cultural opportunities. Not much 'built' heritage. Tourism development is limited, but growing. Lots of authentic appeal. Local folks are benefiting from tourism's diversion to the Zambia side."

"It's a mess, and someone has to clean it up."

"Victoria Falls is in a World Heritage site, and is a national park. Its environmental and ecological integrity is intact but under threat from tourism pressure. The management authority lacks resources."

"Tourism infrastructure caters mostly to top-end foreign tourists. Middle-class tourism facilities are needed in the region to get Africans to tour and experience their own splendor. The local economy is not benefiting."

"The Zimbabwe side of the Falls is suffering from unplanned tourism development, driven in part by the political situation and in part by the belief that there are huge profits to be made. The parameters of any planning initiatives are being ignored, with the result that there is a risk that the Falls will become overtraded."

"Must be seen in context of current political problems, which have devastated tourism. While Victoria Falls has a master plan for its tourism development, earlier development was not too well planned, and some designs were not appropriate. Ability to re-establish tourism and foster sustainability is currently compromised."