Published: November/December 2009 133 Places Rated: Middle East
Text by Jay Walljasper

Egypt: Luxor (Thebes, Valley of the Kings)
Score: 48

An archaeological wonder on the Nile that suffers an invasion of tour buses, "misguided" management, and "commercial exploitation." Overcrowding has deflated the score by 10 points since 2006. However, some panelists find "seeds of hope." The "government is working hard to develop a more professional management plan."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"A few years ago I considered it catastrophic. Since then, some even more catastrophic things have happened in terms of the authenticity of the sites. Extreme excavation in the Valley of Kings, decimation of the urban core of Luxor, demolition of the old town of Gurna, destruction of 19th-century buildings along the waterfront on the East Bank. I have never seen a more misguided policy. But there has also been progress. The "dewatering project" has lowered the water table around the monuments, and they look significantly healthier. The government is aware of the importance of these monuments and is working hard to develop a more professional management for the area. All in all, not a good score, and a very dynamic situation, but therein lie seeds of hope."

"Zahi Hawass [Secretary General of the Egypt's Supreme Council of Antiquities] and his team are doing an amazing job of sustaining the fragile sites. Ground transportation and visitor management need improvement. Harassment by local retailers within the site confines is prevalent."

"Great archaeological heritage; protection of integrity is improving. Culture is under siege from Western tourists. Tourism development is mediocre, but new visitor centers under development should help. Information at the sites is quite limited—local guides and guidebooks a must. Stewardship has not been a priority in the past, but this is changing—still lots of problems with local corruption and "guards" encouraging misuse of resources."

"Best experienced without an air-conditioned bus. In fact, buses into the Valley should be limited, as the entire experience is ruined by too many bus-tour groups. Their impact on the local economy is limited, as they do not tend to support local business. The cost to enter museums and monuments is very small in comparison to many other sites around the world. The government should seek to increase these fees to ensure that re-investment in the sites is appropriate. This is a place where there is a danger of tourism outrunning preservation."

Egypt: Pyramids, Giza
Score: 45

Egypt's government deserves praise for "preservation work," although visitors confront "lots of trash," hawkers, and crowds. Needs a better management strategy; improved interpretive information is planned for a new visitors center.

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Undergoing major work. Sites still face the usual issue of overcrowding. The archaeological and preservation work of the Egyptian government is to be commended. Major issues are trash in the ostensibly closed areas, ongoing deterioration of the Sphinx, and an inadequate museum for the Cheops Boat next to the Great Pyramid. The encroachment of the nearby community detracts from the environmental and social/cultural integrity."

"Once you recover from how close the pyramids are to the city, it is a truly spectacular visit. There is scope to more actively encourage a culture of care from visitors."

"The pyramids and the sphinx are stunning. Disappointing are the local hawkers of touristic junk and the amount of garbage laying about, especially in Giza. This feels like a location that, with a small amount of effort and investment, could radically change the experience for the better."

"Newly implemented protection measures—including the elimination of cars and hawkers from the plateau—should provide better protection for resources and facilitate a better tourist experience. Unclear how displaced locals will benefit from tourism now that contact on the plateau is limited."

Egypt: Northern Red Sea Coast
Score: 41

"Shabby mediocre resorts" abound in this area that is subject to "chaotic development." Urban sprawl is imminent. Coral reefs are being destroyed. But new ecolodges are offering a bit of hope for this "gorgeous" place.

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Great ecological features little appreciated by tourists. The Nature Conservation Service is making great strides in resource protection for the four protected areas; but interpretation is lacking. Guides have little knowledge about ecological resources, and misuse of desert resources is (unfortunately) common. Tourism development is high, although most is mass-tourism oriented. Jewels like Basata and the Al Karm ecolodge can be found. Stewardship of the natural environment is not a broadly held value yet."

"The once peaceful fishing town of Hurghada is now a tightly compacted, high-rise urban maze like Cairo. Sharm el Sheikh's beautiful setting is monopolized by look-alike hotels and occasional political unrest."

"Unique and fragile assets. Some areas suffer negative impacts from mass tourism. Ecotourism and safaris are growing in the region, with great potential for local communities, but threats and pressures on the fragile assets remain. One of the positive impacts of tourism is the involvement of local Bedouin tribes."

"Total disregard for averting tourist impact on the coral-reef ecosystems."

Israel-Jordan: Dead Sea
Score: 44

Suffers one of the most dramatic declines of any destination on our list due to continuing "strife and serious environmental problems." The water level is dropping by more than three feet a year. Some panelists say the Jordanian side is less degraded, others that Israel has managed tourism "in a sustainable fashion."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"This area is now in serious trouble. The beautiful Mujib entrance is practically invisible because of all the buildings, signs, and campsites. The sea itself is disappearing; the hope is that a very expensive Red-Dead Canal will restore it one day. The tourism development consists of hotels that do provide local employment, but that, without water—the water level is dropping every year—won't last long. The first real road opened on the Jordanian side less than 20 years ago. It is amazing how much damage has been done in those 20 years."

"Huge environmental challenges lie ahead as the lake is drying up due to overuse of the Jordan River and to the mining of minerals from the Dead Sea. The desert nearby is also threatened by irresponsible hikers, who do not abide by the "Leave No Trace" ethic. As a result, the aesthetic appeal of the region is highly diminished. The area with the most tourism (on the Israeli side) is Ein Bokek. It exercises mass tourism, with large resort hotels that do not fit with the landscape and are not culturally or ecologically appropriate."

"Requires a comprehensive multinational solution that includes the Palestinians and Syrians, so that a river-basin approach is utilized to manage the Sea."

West Bank: Bethlehem
Score: 34

The tourism industry in this symbolic town is "in shambles" because of ongoing Israeli-Arab fighting. "No matter what their politics, tourists here will be upset by the giant wall, the intimidating border crossing, the desolate and hopeless feeling of the city." Yet some see "huge potential."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Intense symbolic appeal with declining tourism activity because of political problems. Tourism activity is related only to some historical Christian icons; the local culture is outside the tourist circuits."

"Ongoing conflict and poor access means that the area's potential cannot (yet) be realized. Needs political will to realize potential. Attitudes are positive."

"No matter their politics, tourists will be upset by the giant wall, the intimidating border crossing, and the desolate and hopeless feeling of the city. Tourism slightly improving but still pretty much in shambles. The constant bickering of the caretakers of the Church of the Nativity is a metaphor for the troubles in this city."

"The historic significance of the associations and architecture are extraordinary—just as extraordinary as the apparent failure of the governing authorities to establish an enduring set of relationships that do not foment mistreatment of one group or another. Tourists are likely overwhelmed and probably get limited perspectives of the political realities that endanger this cradle of several civilizations."

Jordan: Petra
Score: 60

Recently named one of the "New" Seven Wonders of the World, Petra is an ancient desert city carved into hillsides. "Aesthetically, there is perhaps no more beautiful site in the world." Its remote location has preserved it until now, but "when was the last time representatives of the different communities sat down and discussed how they could work together to retain this jewel?"

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Petra is a shocking, fantastic archaeological site, and the structures seem to be holding up all right. The main issues I saw had to do with management and community relations. Locals do little more than sell trinkets, while visitors escape to luxury hotels when night falls. There also is significant tension with local Bedouin people who have been moved off the site."

"Marvelous ancient ruin with perplexing architecture. As the site is a bit hidden and can only be accessed along a dusty path, no motorized vehicle can reach it. This helps preserve the environmental and ecological quality of the site. There were many locals involved in tourism businesses at the entrance of the site, and a few souvenir and small restaurants inside the site. Apart from the crowd of tourists, the site manages to remain appealing."

"An archaeological treasure in great trouble. Its geology, which is part of its attraction, is for sale at every corner. Donkey and horse-carriage owners are aggressive and ask for exorbitant fees. Animal droppings are all around. Another great place that loses because of poor crowd control as well as poor supervision to ensure a quality visit."

"The tombs are truly magnificent and untouched. The walk along the town culminates in a small archaeological museum. The archaeological sites are more exciting. The facades are all in quite good shape, as is the Byzantine Monastery. The local Bedouins have occupied the site for several hundred years, and while they no longer make their homes in the tombs, they are present to sell souvenirs and jewelry. Site is basically accessible by tour and is well explained by guides. Do not walk downhill in the cool of the morning without expecting that the uphill climb in the afternoon is going to be hot."

West Bank: Bethlehem
Score: 34

The tourism industry in this symbolic town is "in shambles" because of ongoing Israeli-Arab fighting. "No matter what their politics, tourists here will be upset by the giant wall, the intimidating border crossing, the desolate and hopeless feeling of the city." Yet some see "huge potential."

Here is a representative sampling of additional anonymous comments from the panelists. They are not necessarily the views of the National Geographic Society:

"Intense symbolic appeal with declining tourism activity because of political problems. Tourism activity is related only to some historical Christian icons; the local culture is outside the tourist circuits."

"Ongoing conflict and poor access means that the area's potential cannot (yet) be realized. Needs political will to realize potential. Attitudes are positive."

"No matter their politics, tourists will be upset by the giant wall, the intimidating border crossing, and the desolate and hopeless feeling of the city. Tourism slightly improving but still pretty much in shambles. The constant bickering of the caretakers of the Church of the Nativity is a metaphor for the troubles in this city."

"The historic significance of the associations and architecture are extraordinary—just as extraordinary as the apparent failure of the governing authorities to establish an enduring set of relationships that do not foment mistreatment of one group or another. Tourists are probably overwhelmed and probably get limited perspectives of the political realities that endanger this cradle of several civilizations."