For an old lady of 400, Santa Fe has never looked so good. The town of 70,000 is celebrating a new history museum and a renovated historic district, not to mention a 16-month-long birthday party. Aggressive state film incentives over the past seven years have brought feature productions like No Country for Old Men and the upcoming Legion to town, adding to Santa Fe's artsy rep. But some things never change: You'll still find the adobe architecture and eclectic vibe that has lured countless writers, painters, and actors—such as Willa Cather, Shirley MacLaine, and Cormac McCarthy—to the "City Different."
48 Hours in Santa Fe
Text by Melinda Mahaffey
The Southwest stunner turns 400. Here, seven ways to celebrate.
1. Touch History Delve into the 47th state's past at the 96,000-square-foot New Mexico History Museum, which opened last May. Visitors can view a piece of 16th-century Spanish chain mail and experience some of the mystery of 109 E. Palace Avenue, the arrival point for scientists working on the Manhattan Project in Los Alamos in the 1940s. Wrap up your visit at the 1609-built Palace of the Governors, highlighting the two 18th-century Segesser hide paintings that depict early colonial life, and Tesoros de Devoción, a permanent exhibit of New Mexican religious icons. "But the building is our most important artifact," says director Frances Levine, "because it's the place where our history began."
2. Make Tracks for Art and Edibles A former eyesore, the new Railyard District today features art spaces like teen-geared Warehouse 21 and gallery/shop/studio Santa Fe Clay. Join Santa Feans on Saturday mornings at the beloved Farmers Market to pick up organic raspberries, Arena blanca chocolate, Diablo red wine, green chili mustard, and goat cheese. Miguel Gallegos, operations manager at the Market, suggests grabbing a cup of coffee and a breakfast burrito to enjoy in the ten-acre xeriscaped park that runs between the acequia and the tracks.
3. Discover O'Keeffe D. H. Lawrence, Martha Graham, and Ansel Adams all flocked to northern New Mexico in the 1920s and '30s for its welcoming arts scene, but only Georgia O'Keeffe stayed permanently. Today, the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum downtown is home to the largest single collection of her work with more than a thousand paintings, sculptures, and drawings. But for a more intimate view, book a tour of the O'Keeffe Home and Studio (from March to November) in Abiquiu (48 miles from Santa Fe), her full-time home starting in 1949. The restored 18th-century adobe building has been maintained exactly as she had before her death in 1986. "You'll see that O'Keeffe lived the modernist aesthetic that she painted," says museum curator Barbara Buhler Lynes. "It's simple, elegant, and minimal. After a visit, people realize they need to throw out stuff."
4. Delight Your Tastebuds Santa Fe has long been on the gourmet's itinerary, both for its celebrity chef-helmed restaurants and its pioneering use of red and green chili at places like Café Pasqual's. Chef John Vollertsen, food editor at Santa Fean, recommends Atrisco Cafe and Bar, with its healthier take on time-honored recipes (try the whole-wheat sopapillas), and Max's, where chef Brian Rood makes a memorable roasted green chile shrimp and grits. "He's going to be Santa Fe's next great chef," predicts Vollertsen.
5. Take a Hike Nestled against the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Santa Fe boasts outdoor adventure literally at its back door. The seven-mile Atalaya Mountain Trail—part of the Dale Ball Trail System—starts from the parking lot at St. John's College and rewards hikers with expansive city views. Sixteen miles further afield, the Santa Fe Ski Basin attracts downhill and cross-country skiers and snowboarders to its 72 runs.
6. Go to Class With its rich culture and natural beauty, Santa Fe inspires classes from personal transformation to photography. Learn how to prepare authentic New Mexican red and green chili sauce at the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Painter Jane Shoenfeld (www.skyfields.net) will help you capture the scenic Southwest on canvas, while porcelain artist Heidi Loewen (www.heidiloewen.com) can teach you how to throw a pot.
7. Get Soaked Wind down with a soak at Ten Thousand Waves, the tranquil Japanese-themed spa located in the hills above Santa Fe and featuring seven outdoor and one semi-enclosed baths. "I recommend the Four Hands massage, where two therapists work on you," says public relations director Mary Johnson. "Your mind can get around two hands, but it doesn't know what to do with four. It's a lot of fun."
Fast Facts Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, sits 7,000 feet above sea level. Since 1958, a city zoning law has preserved Santa Fe's Spanish-adobe architecture. Visitors can now fly directly to Santa Fe Municipal Airport with recently launched service from Dallas and Los Angeles on American Eagle.
Santa Fe Hotel Finder: Four Insider Picks
Inn of the Anasazi This 58-room boutique hotel boasts an acclaimed restaurant and an even more impressive location, just off the Plaza. Even if the room rate is out of your price range, stop by The Patio for a drink—you just might spot a Hollywood celebrity. From $249.
Inn and Spa at Loretto The 134-room complex—with an exterior made to look like the main building at the Taos Pueblo—completed a $7.5-million renovation in 2008. During the warmer months, dine at Luminaria's romantic outdoor patio, which manages to stay tranquil despite the hotel's downtown location. From $189.
Hotel St. Francis Reopened in October 2009 after a redesign, Santa Fe's oldest hotel offers good value just a block from downtown. Eschewing the usual Southwestern patterns and colors, the decor here takes inspiration from the hotel's name and deploys a Franciscan theme, incorporating stone and wood and featuring a baptismal font in the lobby. From $119.
Inn of the Turquoise Bear Poet Witter Bynner and his longtime companion, Robert Hunt, hosted artists and thinkers from Ansel Adams to Robert J. Oppenheimer here. Today the historic B&B has 11 bedrooms—most with ceiling vigas and kiva fireplaces—named after the famed visitors. The inn wins raves for its peaceful gardens and wine-and-cheese hour. From $115.
Published in the January/February 2010 issue of National Geographic Traveler
Destination Guide
By Kelly Corrigan
Not only does Santa Fe hold the distinction of being the oldest capital city in the United States (first inhabited in 1607), but in 2005 it was the first American city named to UNESCO's "Creative City" network for its authentic experience that is grounded in the community's culture. Look into these blogs, podcasts, and more for a greater glimpse into this Southwestern gem.
Websites
Here, you can prepare for the day's weather in Santa Fe, view a list of all the city's museums, and learn interesting tidbits such as this: The Pueblo people have lived in New Mexico for 12,000 years.
Although it may have been created for locals, Santa Fe's government site offers a scroll of the city's latest news and events that gives any visitor a glimpse of the city's hot topics. Town committee meetings and agendas are also listed here.
Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau
Visit this site for a list of things to do that includes everything from river rafting to seeing Native American ruins. Suggested activities for kids include skateboard parks and family cooking lessons. Click on "Local's Love It" for insider favorites. You'll see that more than a just few chocolate lovers reside in Santa Fe.
Blogs
"SantaFeKate" as she's known here, had only visited Santa Fe twice before she decided to leave Boston in 2006 and move west to slow down, experience a different culture, and be closer to her sons. Her blog documents the local happenings—a performance, a weekend hike on the Aspen Vista Trail. She even relates historical stories she learns while traveling in and around Santa Fe.
Read about Santa Fe from a true insider. Local Sheriff Greg Solano writes about trials he observes and community events he attends. He also offers safety tips.
Randy describes himself as "just a guy enjoying life in this beautiful city." And he has pictures to prove it. Whether out on a hike or strolling through the farmers market, Randy photographs what intrigues him, which could be a man roasting green peppers on a street corner or a perky sunflower in full bloom.
Podcasts
Start here with "Adobe Moments" produced by Santa Fe Public Radio KSFR 90.7. These two-and-a-half minute spots get to the heart of the matter, whether they're about the Pueblo Revolt, the events at Los Alamos, WWII camps, or the history and people of New Mexico.
With host Mary-Charlotte Domandi, this radio show broadcasts every weekday from the Santa Fe Baking Company, a local coffee hangout. Domandi's guests range from Grammy nominated vocalist Perla Batalla to Tibetan Buddhist Nun Robina Courtin to Karen Armitage, chief medical officer of the New Mexico Department of Health.
Produced by Santa Fe resident Kate Manchester, this podcast features chefs, foodies, activists, and farmers living in or near Santa Fe who discuss the up-to-date trends in how food is produced, marketed, and eaten. For example, learn about Santa Fe resident Doug Fine, who lives in a solar powered home, raises his own food, and drives a car fueled by vegetable oil.
From water rights, to tax hikes, to midday news reports, this series of podcasts covers recent current events on the minds of locals.
Museum of Indian Arts & Culture Podcasts
Santa Fe's Museum of Indian Arts & Culture posts its lectures online. Listen to art historian J.J. Brody delve into the Pueblo art traditions of two neighboring communities, or hear emerging Native American artists discuss breaking from traditional art and cultural stereotypes.
Newspapers and Magazines
The first edition of the Santa Fe New Mexican, in 1849, consisted of two pages in Spanish and two in English. Today it is Santa Fe's leading source for daily breaking news and current events.
This alternative weekly, published every Wednesday, reports on local news and culture in Albuquerque, northern New Mexico, and Santa Fe. It's won several state and national awards for its in-depth stories.
Based in Santa Fe, this magazine has been published since 1923, making it the oldest state magazine in the U.S. Each month, it explores the arts, the environment, and New Mexico's multicultural heritage.
Santa Fean is the city's premier magazine. Covering everything from art, homes, lifestyles, and personalities, the magazine aims to be sophisticated and informative. Features focus on design, local celebrities, and the buzz around town.
Maps
Santa Fe Convention & Visitors Bureau Maps
Featuring 39 Santa Fe destinations, such as the Bataan Museum and the State Capitol, this map offers a good start to planning your day's itinerary.
Visit Santa Fe, New Mexico, Map
This map easily identifies restaurants, shopping outlets, accommodations, and businesses within Santa Fe.
Books
The Spell of New Mexico edited by Tony Hillerman (1984)
In this collection of essays, the writers and thinkers who were once drawn to New Mexico reveal its allure. D.H. Lawrence, Mary Austin, and Conrad Richter are some of the writers featured. "Pretentious as it sounds, and tough as it is to prove, there does seem to be something about New Mexico which not only attracts creative people but stimulates their creativity," Hillerman writes.
Santa Fe: A Walk Through Time by Kingsley Hammett (2004)
Written by Kingsley Hammett, publisher of DESIGNER/Builder magazine, this book of essays and photographs focuses on the original 67 buildings of downtown Santa Fe and the people who inhabited them.
Santa Fe Flavors by Anne Hillerman (2009)
Restaurant critic Anne Hillerman not only recommends Santa Fe eateries here, but she includes the recipes of some of the city's most cherished dishes, such as lobster salad from the Pink Adobe and aguacate (avocado) from El Farol.
Movies
South of Santa Fe (1942)
When a group of gangsters kidnaps three industrialists who have come to New Mexico to support a gold-mining project, Roy Rogers, who acts in this movie under the same name, works quickly to free the hostages. Two-way radios, airplanes and big cars are involved in this action movie.
Santa Fe (1951)
Randolph Scott stars as Britt Canfield as one of four brothers who fought in the Confederate Army. He gets a job with the Santa Fe Railroad Company and urges his brothers to join him. Instead his brothers—still bitter over the South's defeat in the war—start robbing trains and find themselves opposing Britt.
Did You Hear About the Morgans? (2009)
Directed by Marc Lawrence, Hugh Grant and Sarah Jessica Parker star as Paul and Meryl, an estranged couple who suddenly find each other under a witness-protection program. They flee New York City for safety in Wyoming. Several of the scenes were shot in Santa Fe, which stands in for Wyoming.
Spoken Word (2009)
When a young San Francisco spoken-word artist returns to New Mexico where his father is dying, he rediscovers the broken world he left behind.