
Washington, D.C., is not only the seat of the U.S. government, it's also the home of the National Geographic Society. Here our in-the-know staff share some of our secret spots.
Eastern Market is the spiritual heart of Capitol Hill, the market has been in continuous operation in 1873, though a 2007 fire ravaged the main building. It's still the best outdoor market in D.C. and a people-watcher's paradise. While the reconstruction of the main building is due to be finished next year, the Saturday/Sunday market remains an extravaganza of outdoor stalls brimming with fresh produce and great artifacts, crafts and products from home and abroad (the offerings are particularly eclectic because of D.C.'s deep international community). 7th St. and North Carolina Ave. SE.
For my money, D.C.'s best memorial, west of the Tidal Basin, is an outdoor tribute to FDR, one of our greatest presidents and—appropriately today—the Great Depression era during which he governed. The kids are attracted to cascading waterfalls and rippling pools—park rangers wage a continuous battle to keep them dry. The rest of us are reminded through sculptures (the President with his dog, Americans in a breadline and listening to his fireside chats) and enduring FDR quotes of his leadership in tough times. +1 202 426 6841
Sushi Ko is Washington's oldest (32 years old) and arguably best sushi restaurant. The Wisconsin flagship is the one to visit. The presentation is simple but there isn't a clunker among its daily specials and regular dishes turned out by chef Koji Terano. One twist on the standard sake and beer: Owner Daisuke Utagawa regularly plunders the vineyards of France for choice burgundies that he believes draw out the flavors of his kitchen in ways not experienced in less adventurous sushi restaurants. 2309 Wisconsin Ave. NW; +1 202 333 4187.
If you think Shakespeare is hoary and irrelevant, you haven't been to the Shakespeare Theatre, and in particular its gleaming new venue at the Sidney Harman Hall. Whether it is an all-male casting of Romeo and Juliet or a dark, dramatic performance of King Lear, it's all about politics and power and love and loss. I find that so D.C. 610 F St. NW and 450 7th St. NW; +1 202 547 3230.
Nothing makes me feel better than a salmon bento box and an organic jasmine pearl green tea at Teaism (3 D.C. locations), D.C.'s original and best tea house. +1 202 835 2233.
The newspaper may be dying, but news is not dead. Explore old and new media at the recently reopened Newseum. Artifacts of recent history, including the Unabomber's cabin and the radio antennae from the Twin Towers bring it all home. 555 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; +1 888 639 7386.
Okay, so it's not in D.C. (it's in northern Virginia), but Wolf Trap is one of my favorite performance venues. It's got that wonderful outdoor amphitheater in the summer, but when the weather turns ill, there's the intimate venue of the Barns to ward the chill away. The eclectic lineup includes John Eaton, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, and the Miró Quartet. 1645 Trap Rd., Vienna, VA; +1 703 255 1900.
For a splurge of a great lunch or dinner at a place that knows wine like no other you must visit Proof; the tuna tartare on fried seaweed is addictive. 775 G St. NW; +1 202 737 7663.
Skewers an NGS staff fave, for well-priced and prepared middle eastern fare—plus a belly dancer on Saturday night. 1633 P St. NW; +1 202 387 7400.
Consignment shopping is a green (and sad economy) rage. Clothes Encounters of a Second Kind on Capital Hill has been dressing House and Senate staffers (and the rest of us) for a good couple of decades. 202 7th St. SE; +1 202 546 4004.
Stitch D.C. is an unparalled LYS (local yarn store, in knitter parlance) with a fine selection of fibers and a vibe that helps make serious knitters out of newbies; Capitol Hill and Georgetown locations. +1 202 544 8900.
For live Latin music, packed dance floors, and divine mojitos (caña and all), check out Habana Village in Adams Morgan. The ground floor is a subdued café, while the second and third floors heave with salsa, merengue, cumbia, and bachata. If you're not the best dancer, no worries, the vibe is welcoming and the club offers dance lessons four nights a week. 1834 Columbia Rd. NW; +1 202 462 6310
Leave the frenzied materialism of Georgetown's main drag, M Street, behind and head north up the hill to Montrose Park for tennis courts, swings, and a tiny boxwood maze. The Lovers' Lane on the west edge of the park leads to Dumbarton Oaks, the famed private estate where the foundations of the United Nations were negotiated in 1944. Now a research institute of Harvard University, the house is open for tours of its impressive Byzantine and pre-Columbian collections as well as its formal gardens. 1703 32nd St. NW; +1 202 339 6401.
Looking to flee the bump and grind crowd that clogs Adams Morgan's 18th Street each weekend? Dive into Pharmacy Bar. The simple, dim bar has Hoergaarden on tap, serves tasty snacks, and boasts a Ms. Pacman arcade table and a jukebox full of indie tunes. Their bay window overlooks the hustle of AdMo. 2337 18th St. NW; +1 202 483 1200.
The Kennedy Center? Sure, it's a world-class showcase of musical and theatrical talent, but be prepared to pay dearly and possibly end up a football field away from the action onstage. A cozier alternative is the Folger Theatre, an intimate, Elizabethan-style performance space located in the venerable Folger Shakespeare Library, on Capitol Hill. Last winter we had season tickets with third-row seats—literally within spitting distance of the stage (if you've ever sat close to the stage in live theater you'll know that "spitting distance" is a fact, not a metaphor). Before the show or during intermission, you can browse the Library's public display of rare books and shop in the bookstore. The theater specializes in Renaissance plays, which sometimes feature live period music. And ticket prices are a fraction of what you pay at the Kennedy Center. 201 East Capitol St. SE; +1 202 544 4600.
I love grabbing an espresso and a bite to eat at the Phillips Collection after seeing a fabulous exhibit of paintings or photographs. Its permanent collections have some of the most famous artists' works displayed in intimate rooms, either in the Phillips' home or the very tastefully done new wings—including Renoir, El Greco, Van Gogh, Cezanne, etc. 1600 21st St. NW; +1 202 387 2151.
The recently renovated National Portrait Gallery is the perfect place to see past presidential portraits, as well as contemporary portraits of important Americans. 750 9th St. NW; +1 202 633 8300.
Rosa Mexicano restaurant in the Penn Quarter is a fun, colorful, and lively spot to get great authentic Mexican food, and it's not far from the Inaugural festivities. 575 7th St. NW; +1 202 783 5522.
I look forward to my morning cup of tea at the Mudd House, just down the street from the National Geographic headquarters. They serve fresh-brewed tea—no tea bags here—and some of the best muffins I've found. With all the chain coffee shops around, it's nice to visit a small locally owned place with a friendly staff. Stop in for lunch, too; soup, sandwiches, and personal-size pizzas are fantastic. 1724 M St. NW; +1 202 822 8455.
During the holiday season, I make sure to take a walk through the lobby of the Mayflower Hotel. Decorations add a festive flair to this grand old hotel and always put me in the holiday spirit. For a special treat, have afternoon tea in the Cafe Promenade while a harpist plays from a balcony above. 1127 Connecticut Ave. NW; +1 202 347 3000.
There's always a weekday lunch line out the door of the Greek Deli a take-out only lunch counter. Eavesdrop on K Street lawyers and lobbyists while waiting to order your gyro platter, which comes with orzo and salad. 1120 19th St. NW; +1 202 296 2111.
The service can be a bit gruff at C.F. Folks , but you'll be willing to put up with some abuse in this cramped weekday lunch spot when you consider that you're getting gourmet fare for a lot less than you'd pay next door at the expense-account restaurant the Palm. The place fits only about a dozen tables, most of them outside under a covered awning. Go for one of the daily specials, featuring a different cuisine each weekday. My favorite is Monday's Louisiana red beans, rice, and spicy andouille sausage. 1225 19th St. NW; +1 202 293 0162.
Hello Cupcake Cupcakes! Really, there is nothing more to say. 1351 Connecticut Ave. NW; +1 202 861 2253.
Smithsonian Associates, the membership arm of the Smithsonian, presents a top-notch roster of lectures, performances, films, and workshops that even many Washingtonians don't know about. Membership gets you a discount on tickets but you don't have to be a member to attend events, which mostly take place after-hours at one of the Smithsonian museums. 1100 Jefferson Dr. SW; +1 202 633 3030.
Embassies and ambassadorial residences (some housed in Gilded Age mansions) open their doors to the public during concerts by international musicians during their Embassy Series. You might hear a jazz trio at the Turkish embassy or an opera singer at the Polish embassy—either way it's a great opportunity to mingle with D.C.'s diplomatic community while scoping out some little-seen digs. +1 202 625 2361.
Pangea is a hidden gem of a shop that sells handcrafted items from artisans in developing countries and is supported by the International Finance Corporation (IFC). Browse Cambodian silk pillows, beaded jewelry from Afghanistan, and more goodies you won't find anywhere else in town. Bonus: an in-store cafe serves panini sandwiches and lattes. 2121 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; +1 202 872 6432
D.C. has never been known for its sense of fashion, but hey, Project Runway style arbiter Tim Gunn is a local boy. And Betsy Fisher has long believed in the city's high-heel-wearing potential. Her friendly Dupont Circle boutique has been selling cool indie designer clothing to Washington's furtive fashionistas for 20 years. Now similar hip boutiques dot Georgetown, U St, 14th St...but Betsy was a pioneer and for that we thank her. 1224 Connecticut Ave. NW; +1 202 785 1975.
The Victorian mansion at Heurich House is one of Dupont Circle's best-kept secrets. You can make an appointment for a guided tour of this opulent historic home, formerly owned by successful local brewer and bigwig Christian Heurich. The house was decked out with the most modern conveniences of the day, including full indoor plumbing and a central vacuum system. Adding to the charm is the vest-pocket Victorian garden out back, open spring to fall, where office workers picnic during their lunch hour. 1307 New Hampshire Ave. NW; +1 202 429 1894
Brookside Gardens, a 50-acre park and wedding-location favorite located about 45 minutes drive from downtown D.C., has several themed gardens—a Japanese garden, a butterfly garden, a yew terrace. But my favorite is the azalea garden, a retina-searing expanse of color from mid-April through May, thanks to 2,000 plants in 300 varieties of azalea. 1800 Glenallan Ave., Wheaton, MD; +1 301 962 1400.
Source is a tenacious performing-arts space and ground zero for some of D.C.'s most innovative theater artists. If you're in the mood for slam poetry, improv theater, a lyrical over-the-top play written mostly in Hawaiian pidgin, this is the place. The annual 10-Minute Play Festival is one of the highlights of Washington's theater scene. 1835 14th St. NW; +1 202 204 7800.
On a chilly or rainy day or after a visit to the National Portrait Gallery hop over to Full Kee restaurant in Chinatown for a bowl of Shrimp Dumpling Noodle Soup Hong Kong Style. The delicate plump dumplings are like nothing you've ever eaten or could ever make on your own, and the soup will only set you back $5.50. 509 H St. NW; +1 202 371 2233.
Politics and Prose Bookstore, tucked away up in Northwest D.C. just a mile north of the VanNess/UDC Metro stop, is a booklovers' dream. The main event each evening is the featured author series (many local pols as well as nationally recognized authors), which always stirs up a lively discussion with the audience. A small downstairs cafe serves lattes, soup, and sandwiches. 5015 Connecticut Ave. NW; +1 202 364 1919.
The Georgetown Flea Market, held every Sunday (weather permitting) in the Hardy School parking lot at the top of Georgetown is a great place to score antique jewelry and furniture, vintage clothing, collectibles, prints, books, Persian rugs, and baked goods. 1819 35th St. NW; +1 202 775 FLEA.
The protected farm landscape of Maryland's Montgomery County, out River Road in Potomac, MD, offers rural vistas and pick-your-own farmsteads like popular Homestead Farm. 15600 Sugarland Rd., Poolesville, MD; +1 301 977 3761.
The 2,000-acre McKee-Beshers Wildlife Management Area, which stretches along the Potomac, is home to such relatively exotic birds as pheasants, scarlet tanagers, and indigo buntings—and we're talking only a half-hour from the border with D.C. 18600 River Rd., Poolesville, MD; +1 410 356 9272.
I always enjoy a visit to Pennyfield Lock, a segment of the C & O Canal National Historical Park, for its scenic river and canal views and an old lock-keeper's house. 12420 Pennyfield Lock Rd., Tobytown, MD; +1 301 739 4200.
In far-flung Fairfax County, just across the Potomac from D.C. and eight miles south of Old Town Alexandra, visit Mount Vernon during one of its many events and festivals (especially the Fourth of July celebration). It's open 365 days a year. 3200 Mount Vernon Memorial Highway, Mount Vernon, VA; +1 703 780 2000.
See what's new at the Smithsonian's massive Udvar-Hazy Center devoted to air and space artifacts, including the shuttle Enterprise and the stealth plane Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird. Near Dulles International Airport at 14390 Air and Space Museum Parkway, Chantilly, VA; +1 202 633 2494.
I love Old Town Alexandria for its arts complex called the Torpedo Factory, its array of unique shops and galleries, and its cobblestone history. 105 N. Union St., Alexandria, VA; +1 703 838 4565.
To see and be seen, head for the Washington Harbour on the Georgetown waterfront, renowned locally for its outdoor summertime bar scene right along the Potomac River (on weekend evenings, scores of boats tie up at the dock here). 30th and K Sts. NW.
And a quick list of some of the smaller things that make the D.C. area so popular with diplomats and other international visitors and residents: polyglot stores like Rodman's, where you'll find everything from Russian pepper spreads to German Lebkuchen to Jamaican ginger beer to Italian grissini to South African wines. Bakeries like Heller's, in business since 1922 and known for its strudels. Family-owned restaurants like Lebanese Taverna, now run by the children of the enterprising immigrant couple who started with a small eatery.
Visit the Korean War Veterans Memorial at night to see the exquisitely subtle lighting on the soldiers' faces convey an eerie mood that's absent during daylight hours.
Eat dinner at Little Fountain, a simple, yet elegant bistro with delicious American dishes, and none of the pretense found in many D.C. eateries. It's personal and friendly. On Wednesday nights they offer 1/2 off any bottle of wine with the purchase of any entree. 2339 18th St. NW; +1 202 462 8100.
Often overlooked, but don't miss the Bishop's Garden at the National Cathedral, for a quiet respite that's great for contemplation. 3101 Wisconsin Ave. NW; +1 202 537 6200.
When my wife and I moved to Washington, we toured all the mega-museums on the Mall and were suitably impressed—and exhausted. What a delight, then, to stumble onto the wonderfully intimate Woodrow Wilson House, Washington's only presidential museum. The 28th president and his wife retired here from the White House on his successor's inauguration day in 1921. Don't care much about past Presidents? No matter. Exploring this three-story rowhouse, you'll taste the homelife of the genteel upper class of yesteryear, from library to kitchen. 2340 S St. NW; +1 202 387 4062.
The Billy Goat Trail along the Maryland side of the Potomac River, is rocky, steep in places, and amazingly wild. Park your car across the street from the Old Angler's Inn on MacArthur Boulevard, a couple miles north of the beltway. Watch for a trail sign just upstream from there via the C&O Canal Towpath, a flat, wide path you can use for the return leg of this 3.6-mile loop. When you finally reach the view of Mather Gorge—with its steep, craggy walls—you'll think you're in canyon country out west, rather than just outside the nation's capital.
Escaping for a bicycle ride in Rock Creek Park keeps me sane when the hustle and bustle of Washington gets to be too much. Beach Drive is closed to automotive traffic on the weekends and holidays, which means that bikers, bladers, joggers, and walkers own the roads. If you need a rest, say hello to a panda at the National Zoo or stop into the Nature Center and Planetarium.
You can really see the city by biking through its many parks. Rock Creek stretches all the way from the Lincoln Memorial to Maryland—if the urge strikes, keep on going with the links to the Mount Vernon Trail and the Capital Crescent Trail. Bikes are available to rent at the Thompson Boat Center and Bike and Roll.
Nothing's better on a cold winter day than stopping into the bar at the Tabard Inn to sip a hot toddy around the fire. Nestle into one of the couches in the dark wood paneled bar and enjoy hearing the logs pop and hiss as your fingers defrost. And if hunger strikes, move on into the excellent restaurant to sate your palate. 1739 N St. NW; +1 202 785 1277.
I've never understood the name, but So's Your Mom deli in Adams Morgan is so good that I don't care for an explanation anymore. Stop by in the morning to grab a bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich on a bagel or later in the day for a gourmet sandwich. It is also a great place to pick up fancy appetizers and imported food items for that special dinner party. 1831 Columbia Rd. NW; +1 202 462 3666.
Is the line at the Capitol Visitor's Center too long? Head down the hill to the United States Botanic Garden to escape to a different kind of jungle. I love to slow down and stroll amidst the jungle canopy along the elevated walkway 24 feet up in the air in or explore landscapes of cacti or orchids. I always leave the Botanic Garden relaxed and ready for another return trip to this oasis in the middle of the National Mall. 245 First St. SW; +1 202 225 8333.
Ok, so Tryst is the secret that isn't so secret. I don't really want to share, because it is already hard to grab a seat on the comfy, mismatched couches, but this coffeeshop and lounge is the closest thing this Oregonian has found to rival the coffeeshops of the Pacific Northwest. You'll always find art on the walls, locals on the couches, and free wifi on the weekdays, not to mention you'll get a good drinks and eats too. Now quit lingering over your latte so I can get a seat! 2459 18th St. NW; +1 202 232 5500.
The marriage of pizza and ping pong is perhaps the greatest union since peanut butter and jelly. And it can be found at Comet Ping Pong, a funky neighborhood pizzeria in Northwest D.C., with three ping pong tables in the back. Owned by the same chef who serves up the fantastic (but far pricier) food at Buck's Fishing and Camping down the street, the scene is a mix of post-soccer game families and the hipsters who love a great—locally-sourced—slice. The scene picks up on weekends when D.J.'s and local bands entertain the crowds. 5037 Connecticut Ave. NW; +1 202 364 0404.
The acoustics at the 9:30 club are some of the best I've found at any venue, and their lineup of indie darlings—from Ted Leo to the Wu Tang Clan—never fails to impress. 815 V St. NW; +1 202 265 0930
I like food as fresh as I can get it, so on weekends, there's a good chance you'll find me at the produce stands at Dupont Circle's Freshfarm Market (http://www.freshfarmmarket.org/markets.html) or perusing the freshly made pastas at the Eastern Market foodstalls in Capitol Hill. I love snagging the recipes offered at the stands and trying out exotic new dishes.
A place where you can order both shrimp and grits and a great pot of mussels? I'm in heaven. So Marvin is a must-stop on my list. Themed for the period of time that Marvin Gaye exiled himself to Belgium, it's a sexy, urban scene with a great rooftop bar to boot. 2007 14th St. NW; +1 202 797 7171.