Location:
Northwest corner of Wyoming, southern Montana, and eastern Idaho.
Vital Stats:
Nearest airports: Cody, Wyoming, 56 miles east: Jackson, Wyoming, 52 miles south; Bozeman, Montana, 98 miles north.
Established: 1872.
Size: 2,219,791 acres.
Park website: http://www.nps.gov/yell/
Snapshot
The nation's first national park, Yellowstone was established in 1872 by President Ulysses S. Grant. Its defining feature is its geothermal landscape: bubbling sulfur springs, steaming fumaroles, shooting geysers (such as the iconic Old Faithful). Also distinctive: the park's "mega fauna" wildlife: bears, bison, moose, elk, and mountain lions.
Did You Know?
Most of the park rests atop a slumbering volcano that erupted half a million years ago and is showing signs of renewed activity (note: No eruption is expected in the near future).
There are more geysers and hot springs here than anywhere else on Earth.
Scenic Drive
The Canyon Village to Tower-Roosevelt stretch of the park's main Grand Loop drive is a 19-mile route through iconic Yellowstone landscapes, including the 23-mile-long Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and striking basalt towers.
Best Hikes
Fot the best chances of seeing mega-fauna (bison, elk, moose), take one of the marked trails in the central Hayden Valley.
The Lamar River Trail starts near Soda Butte and branches off into various trails. Bring binocs and hit the trail before 8 a.m. to maximize your chances of spotting the wolves that were reintroduced to this area in 1995.
Top Experiences
To view an array of scenic mineral pools and geysers, visit Biscuit Basin, just a couple of miles north of Old Faithful on the road toward Madison. "There are a number of thermal features, including bubbling pools, all boiling hot and in jeweled colors, including sapphire," notes Sarah Richey, an instructor at the Yellowstone Association Institute.
The nonprofit Yellowstone Association Institute offers a variety of trips, including a four-day Pelican Valley Grizzly Bear excursion. Two guides escort up to eight participants—including beginners—into grizzly territory, searching for scat and tracks. Hands-on lessons include bear biology, safe camping techniques, and conservation. Families can choose a hotel-based program led by a naturalist, who takes you to canyons, waterfalls, and geyser basins.
Flora/Fauna
The park is home to bison, wolves, coyotes, black and grizzly bears, moose, mountain lions, elk, bighorn sheep, pika, eagles, and trumpeter swans. Yellowstone's flora includes lodgepole pine, aspen, and fir trees, and wildflowers such as Indian paintbrush, lupine, sagebrush, and huckleberry.
Photo Ops
Perhaps the most popular photo op is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, where tawny rhyolite cliffs plunge down 1,000 feet to the roiling Yellowstone River. After his visit here, the English writer Rudyard Kipling said, "Now I know what it is to sit enthroned amid the clouds of sunset." Two cataracts, the 109-foot-high Upper Falls and the 308-foot-high Lower Falls, are considered must-sees. The canyon, river, and falls are only visible from trails and lookout points, not from the road: Take North Rim Drive, a 2.5-mile one-way road that will lead you to various viewpoints, including Lookout Point and Inspiration Point. Aim for early morning or late afternoon for the best light.
Smart Traveler Strategies
Everyone wants to see Old Faithful. To avoid crowds of other visitors, "get to Old Faithful at dawn and you'll have the place almost to yourself," says park spokesman Al Nash. "People don't realize the park is open 24 hours a day. Or go on a moonlit night for an even more magical experience." Photographers, take note: Those times also tend to be the coolest of the day, and lower temperatures enhance the steam and drama of the moment.
Schedule plenty of time to visit Yellowstone. "Most people try to see the park in a day or two, which is a big mistake," notes Nash. "This is not a drop-in-for-the-weekend kind of place, but that's the way many families do Yellowstone these days. If you can plan a longer visit, you'll have a much more rewarding experience." Stay for a week, for example, and you can spend the first two days at the "must-sees" and the rest of the time discovering the park on your terms, without the accompanying masses.
Most of the congestion in the park is on the roads, so get out of the car as much as possible. The park boasts more than 1,000 miles of trails. "You can go almost anywhere, even Old Faithful, and if you're willing to walk a half mile from the trailhead, you'll likely have the place to yourself," says Sarah Richey, of the Yellowstone Association Institute. For safety, stick to the marked trails and pathways, particularly in the thermal areas, where the water temperature is often at or above boiling.
Day trippers should make a point to stop in at a visitors center (there are five across the park) for a free map and advice about the best bets for a hike and opportunities to spot wildlife. The staff, experts at their particular corner of the park, make it a point to keep up on the trail conditions and resident populations. Bring a good pair of binoculars and/or a camera with a good zoom lens on your hikes: It's unlikely you'll get very close to moose or bighorn sheep. The best area to spot recently reintroduced wolves is the Lamar Valley, at dawn or dusk.
When to Visit
The park is open year-round and offers something different every season. The best weather is in July and August, but these also are the most crowded months of the year. May and June are optimal for seeing wildflowers and baby animals. September and early October offer good light for photography, and opportunities to witness elk bugling. Wintertime offers a special beauty, with frozen waterfalls and steaming hot pools; at this time, too, animals can often be found near roads, which makes them easier to watch.
Where to Stay
The big question for prospective visitors is whether to lodge in or outside the park. Both offer a range of facilities and price ranges. In general, the most historically significant lodges are in the park. Staying in the park also allows easier access to the various sites. There are more luxury and budget options outside the park, as well as a greater variety of shopping and dining venues.
Old Faithful Inn is the most famous lodge in this park, and perhaps in the National Parks system. The main lobby, which is open to the public, has a 65-foot-high ceiling and a massive stone fireplace, and is a short walk away from the faithful geyser. There are several wings of guest rooms, which vary greatly in décor.
Lake Yellowstone Hotel and Cabins is the other grande dame in the park, with an expansive lake view and piano music in the lobby most evenings.
Mammoth Hot Springs Cabins are simple and well located. The great outdoors is the big feature here. Elk and other wildlife may walk by your porch.
Canyon Campground is popular with families because of its budget rates and convenient location near many trails.
Excursions Outside the Park
With 2.2 million acres, Yellowstone is so big that there is no need to leave for other diversions. However, outside the park lie interesting gateway towns, including Cody and Jackson, both in Wyoming. Grand Teton National Park, another headliner, is also nearby.
Advisories
Yellowstone is not a theme park. The animals are wild and the hot springs and geysers and mud pots are scalding hot. When walking near geothermal features, stay on walkways and watch your children. When hiking, keep your distance from wild animals and try not to surprise them. Also, don't feed wildlife, as you will actually be endangering both the animals and other people. Keep trash and food in proper bear-proof containers. Wear appropriate clothing for weather conditions and to keep insects away, and proper footwear for hikes. Bring water with you when hiking. If you're planning to go backcountry camping, make sure you register your route at the visitors center.
More From National Geographic
From National Geographic Adventure, America's Ultimate Parks, 2009
National Geographic Geotourism MapGuide, Greater Yellowstone
National Geographic Magazine, Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, American Landscapes, by Alexandra Fuller
National Geographic Expeditions, Yellowstone and Grand Tetons National Parks
Yellowstone National Park Explorer 3D
Secret Yellowstone, National Geographic DVD, 2007
Trails Illustrated Yellowstone National Park Trail Map
Wolves: A Legend Returns to YellowstoneNational Geographic DVD (2000)
Copy for this series includes excerpts from National Geographic Guide to the National Parks of the United States, Sixth Edition, 2009, and our National Parks series featured in National Geographic Traveler. See staff contributors here.