India's remote and rugged northeastern states see only a trickle of travelers, which is surprising considering that the area has some of the subcontinent's most phenomenal mountain scenery and trekking possibilities. With a charismatic mix of ethnic groups, festivals, cuisines, traditions, wildlife, and landscapes, a visit to this captivating pocket of India is sure to fire your imagination and have you hankering to return long after your Indian sojourn has come to a close.
Darjeeling
This picturesque, 7,001-foot (3,134-meter) hill station—which served as a cool summer retreat for the English during the Raj—is especially well known for its production of tea. Flanked by towering mountains, including Kanchenjunga, elevation 28,208 feet (8,598 meters), Darjeeling has views that are truly dramatic—a great way to fully savor them is by taking a trek in the surrounding countryside.
How to Get There
The most romantic way to access Darjeeling is by hopping the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, also known as the "Toy Train," a narrow-gauge train that has been chugging up and down the hill since 1881. The train departs from the New Jalpaiguri station (near Siliguri) and takes around six and a half hours (picking up passengers at Kurseong) to reach Darjeeling; advance bookings are recommended. Two-hour "joy rides" on this train are also possible for those who don't have time to take the full journey. Apart from the Toy Train, you can get to Darjeeling by bus as well as by share-jeeps and taxis, which all make frequent trips between Darjeeling and surrounding towns, including Siliguri.
How to Get Around
You can easily get around "downtown" Darjeeling by foot. For longer trips, catch one of the numerous share-jeeps which cost just a fraction of what you'd pay for a private taxi.
Attractions
Riding on the "Toy Train" is one of the town's glowing attractions, giving passengers the chance to see the breathtakingly beautiful scenery en route to Darjeeling—for more information see the "How to Get There" section, above.
You can get an insight into the tea-making process at the Makaibari Tea Estates, which offers not only tours but also lodging and mountain and jungle treks. Those keen to purchase tea to take back home should visit Nathmulls Tea Cosy, which sells a variety of well-packaged products; their website has some fabulous links, including tea recipes and the history of Darjeeling tea. Laden La Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 7309.
Located around eight miles (12.8 kilometers) south of Darjeeling is Tiger Hill, which has stunning views of the surrounding mountains, including Kanchenjunga. You can even catch a distant glimpse of Mount Everest. The best time to visit is at the crack of dawn, when the sight of the rising sun is positively magical.
In the Darjeeling vicinity you'll find some notable Buddhist monasteries, including the Bhutia Busty Gompa and the Yiga Choeling Gompa, each built in the 19th century and containing fine murals.
The top spot to book white-water rafting expeditions (these range from a couple of hours to a couple of days) is from Darjeeling, even though the trips themselves often depart from the Teesta Bazaar (around ten miles [16 kilometers] from Kalimpong; Kalimpong is about 31 miles [50 kilometers] from Darjeeling). Boating is along the rapids of the Rangeet and Teesta Rivers, with prime rafting seasons September to November and March to June.
Places to Eat
You'll find some terrific places to eat in Darjeeling, including restaurants that dish out global fare, from Mexican-style enchiladas to Italian pasta and Tibetan momos (fried or steamed stuffed dumplings). Many restaurants in Darjeeling close as early as 8 p.m.
The food, views, ambience and service at Glenary's Restaurant and Bar have made it popular with travelers. It's especially well-known for its mouth-watering tandoori (clay-oven cooked) fare. On site is also a café—the perfect place to unwind over a hot cup of Darjeeling tea and a slice of cake. Nehru Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 7554.
For tasty Tibetan food, head straight for Kunga's restaurant, which offers cheap and delicious dishes, from squishy momos to nourishing thukpa (noodle-based soup). 51 Gandhi Road.
Cheap and cheerful, the Park restaurant cooks splendid Indian and Thai cuisine. The Thai red curry won't disappoint. 41 Laden La Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 5270.
Places to Stay
Room rates skyrocket April to June and October to December, so come at other times to save money.
A competitively priced, top-end choice is the Elgin, a historic hotel with colonial charm. Most rooms are fitted out with open fireplaces and rustic furnishings. There's a relaxing garden area. 18 H.D. Lama Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 7226; e-mail elgin@elginhotels.com.
Another character-filled place is the Mayfair Hill Resort, which is set in sprawling gardens and was once a royal summer retreat. The elegant rooms are beautifully decorated with old-style furniture and sumptuous fabrics. The Mall, opposite Governor House; tel. +91 (0)354 225 6376.
An appealing mid-priced option is the unpretentious Bellevue Hotel, which boasts views of Kanchenjunga and has spacious, cheery rooms. Chowrasta; tel. +91 (0)354 225 4075.
One of the best budget offerings is down-to-earth Andy's Guest House. The rooms are well-kept, the owner is welcoming, and the rooftop has pleasing views. Dr. Zakir Hussain Road.
General Tips
To tap into the traveler's grapevine, pop into Joey's Pub (2 S.M. Das Road), a popular watering hole (it closes around 10 p.m.). tel. +91 (0)354 225 8216.
For More Information
Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council Tourism Office Jawahar Road West; tel. +91 (0)354 225 4879.
Darjeeling News
West Bengal Tourism
Explore Darjeeling
West Bengal Tourist Information Center Darjeeling railway station.
Tourist Information Center New Car Park, Laden La Road.
Gangtok
Capital of the remote northeastern Indian state of Sikkim, Gangtok stretches along an undulating ridge and enjoys glorious views of the mighty Kanchenjunga, India's highest mountain. Although it has seen escalating modernization in recent times, this city of 30,000 still has a more relaxed demeanor than most Indian towns its size. Gangtok is a good base from which to explore the state's surrounding attractions.
How to Get There
The most common way to reach Gangtok is by bus, with state-run buses arriving and departing from the SNT (Sikkim Nationalized Transport) station on Palzor Stadium Road. In addition, privately operated minibuses travel here from a selection of towns including Kalimpong, Siliguri, and Darjeeling; the private bus depot is on National Highway 31A. You can also catch one of the many share-jeeps and taxis that shuttle between Gangtok and various towns, including Kalimpong, Siliguri, and Darjeeling.
How to Get Around
There are plenty of share-jeeps in Gangtok, which are a cheap and quick way to get around town. Private taxis are also available.
Attractions
The Namgyal Institute of Tibetology was established in 1959 to carry out research into Tibetan and Mahayana Buddhist culture. The institute houses a massive collection of Buddhist literature and manuscripts as well as an array of sublime tankas (Tibetan paintings) and a variety of sacred relics, including a human skull that once served as a holy bowl (Deorali; e-mail info@tibetology.net). Close to the institute is the tranquil and colorful orchid sanctuary and memorial garden.
Sporting stunning town and mountain views is the Enchey Gompa. This Buddhist monastery, built in the early 20th century, houses murals and statues.
Places to Eat
Gangtok's restaurants offer a jumble of Indian, Tibetan, Chinese, continental, and Sikkimese cuisine, at reasonable prices.
The Blue Sheep Restaurant is recommended for its Indian and Chinese fare, with traditional curries and wok-tossed noodle dishes. Mahatma Gandhi Marg (above the Sikkim Tourist Information Center).
Little Italy gets a standing ovation for its Italian food, which includes generous-sized, delicious pasta dishes. SNOD Complex, National Highway 31A, Deorali; tel. +91 (0)3592 281980.
For a frothy cappuccino and slice of cake, pop into the chirpy Baker's Cafe. Mahatma Gandhi Marg.
Places to Stay
Hotel tariffs decrease by as much as 30 percent during Sikkim's off-peak seasons, January to March and July to August.
Many budget travelers flock to the Modern Central Lodge, which has cheap dorm beds as well as private rooms. The rooms are ordinary but comfortable. On site is a popular restaurant and bar. Mahatma Gandhi Marg; tel. +91 (0)3592 204670.
The mid-range Hotel Golden Pagoda has impressive rooms, many with views. There's a rooftop restaurant serving tasty Indian, Chinese, and continental fare. Off Mahatma Gandhi Marg. tel. +91 (0)3592 226929; e-mail goldenpagoda@rediffmail.com.
You won't have to pay five-star rates to stay at the boutique-style Oriental, which is one of Gangtok's loveliest hotels. The decor, a blend of traditional and contemporary Sikkimese styles, includes exquisite handmade carpets. The 20 rooms (constituting four suites) have polished wooden floors and canopied beds; the top-floor rooms have fabulous mountain views. There's a multi-cuisine restaurant on the premises. Mahatma Gandhi Marg; tel. +91 (0)3592 221180; e-mail info@orientalsikkim.com.
For More Information
Sikkim Tourist Information Center Mahatma Gandhi Marg; tel. +91 (0)3592 221 634.
Gangtok, Sikkim, Information
Sikkim Government
Nameri National Park
Nameri National Park in the state of Assam is a vast rain forest punctuated by streams and creeks. Unlike many Indian wildlife sanctuaries, Nameri attracts few visitors, despite its pristine beauty and remarkable range of wildlife.
How to Get There
The easiest way to get to the Nameri National Park is by hiring a private taxi from Tezpur. Tezpur has an airport that services flights from Kolkata (capital of West Bengal).
How to Get Around
Jeeps to tour part of the park can be arranged at the park's entrance.
Attractions
Covering some 400 square miles (1,036 square kilometers), Nameri National Park (along with an adjacent refuge) is home to wild elephants, tigers, turtles, leopards, bison, monkeys, sloth bears, pythons, and several hundred species of birds.
Places to Stay and Eat
The few accommodations in the park vicinity are also the best places to eat.
The Eco Camp, two miles (three kilometers) from the park entrance, offers tented or dormitory accommodations. Potasali.
The mid-priced Kunki's Resort has spacious, clean rooms with televisions. The rooftop area has fine views. Bhalukpong; tel. +91 (0)3782 234788.
General Tips
The Nameri National Park is open to visitors November to April.
For More Information
Assam Tourism, Tezpur Tezpur Tourist Lodge, Jenkins Road, Tezpur; tel. +91 (0)3712 221016
Sibsagar
The legendary Ahom dynasty, which controlled Assam for some six centuries, made Sibsagar its capital. It is one of Assam's oldest towns. The most obvious legacy of this once flourishing dynasty is its huge artificial reservoir, known as the Sibsagar Tank. The town also has a sprinkling of Hindu temples.
How to Get There
Buses from various centers—including Jorhat and Guwahati—stop at Sibsagar, dropping passengers at the Assam State Transport Corporation (ASTC) bus stand (on the corner of Assam Trunk and Hospital Roads).
How to Get Around
There are autorickshaws and taxis available in Sibsagar as well as local buses.
Attractions
Construction of the 18th-century Sibsagar Tank was ordered by Ambika, a queen belonging to the Ahom dynasty. Overlooking this reservoir is Assam's tallest Shiva temple, the 108-foot-tall (33-meter) Shiva Dol Temple.
To view a collection of interesting artifacts harking back to the Ahom dynasty, visit the Ahom Museum.
Kareng Ghar, the palace ruins of the former Ahom rulers, lies around 2.5 miles (four kilometers) from the town center. Its underground section is called Talatal Ghar. Nearby is a former elephant and buffalo-fighting pavilion, the Rang Ghar, built in 1746.
Places to Stay and Eat
The handful of places to stay in Sibsagar are also the best places to eat.
A good possibility is the Sibsagar Tourist Lodge, with economical rooms that are spacious, neat, and equipped with functioning hot showers (a luxury in remote areas). Near Sibsagar Tank.
The Kareng Hotel's rooms are not bad considering the low rates; they're plain but acceptably clean. Meals are available at the on-site restaurant. Temple Road.
For More Information
Assam Tourism next to the Ahom Museum.
Khecheopalri Lake
Enveloped by green forest-laden hills, west Sikkim's small Khecheopalri Lake is sacred to Hindus and Buddhists alike. Many prayer flags surround the water. Local legend says that holy birds scoop away any leaves that may drift onto this revered lake.
How to Get There
Infrequent buses travel to Khecheopalri Lake from several nearby towns such as Pelling. A more convenient way to get here is via share-jeep.
How to Get Around
You walk around the lake. Share-jeeps are also available.
Attractions
The waterfall-fed Khecheopalri Lake is the area's star attraction and is a delightfully calm place to visit. Every March/April (the dates vary from year to year), the "Butter Lamp Festival" takes place at this lake, which, as the name suggests, involves the floating of butter lamps.
If you've got a couple of hours to spare, walk up to the little Khecheopalri Gompa, picturesquely situated above the lake.
Places to Stay and Eat
You can do both at the Khecheopalri Trekkers Hut, which has cheap dorm beds and private rooms (with communal bathrooms) that are clean and comfortable. The owners are helpful, and meals are available. Located 656 feet (200 meters) from Khecheopalri Lake.
Also, a few simple snack stalls line the lake itself.
For More Information
Pelling Tourist Office Middle Pelling, Pelling; no phone.
Pelling, Sikkim, Information
Kurseong
This scenic village around 19 miles (30 kilometers) south of Darjeeling sits among verdant tea plantations and thick forests and is a glorious escape from the tumult of urban India. It's a marvelous place to breathe fresh country air while taking an unhurried walk.
How to Get There
The quaint "Toy Train" stops at Kurseong en route to Darjeeling and is highly recommended. You can also reach Kurseong by bus from various neighboring towns, although these services are infrequent. Share-jeeps are an efficient and inexpensive way to get here, and these also operate from neighboring centers.
How to Get Around
Walking is the most enjoyable way of getting around, but there are also share-jeeps available.
Attractions
Kurseong's main attraction is its pristine scenery, making it superlative walking territory. A recommended day-long, 11-mile (18-kilometer) hike is from the village of Kurseong to Mirik, which traverses orange groves and tea estates. The views of the Himalaya from Mirik are well worth the slog. If you're not up to this trek, take the much gentler 1.5-mile (two-kilometer) round-trip walk to Eagle's Crag.
Places to Stay and Eat
There are just a few places to stay in Kurseong, with more options in Mirik. Each of these villages have chai and snack stalls, but the best places to eat are in the hotels.
In Kurseong there's the lovely Kurseong Tourist Lodge which has pleasing mid-range rooms—the more expensive ones come with private balconies. The rooms are decorated in a homey fashion and have nice wooden touches. This lodge also has a first-rate restaurant. Hill Cart Road, Kurseong village; tel. +91 (0)354 234 4409.
In Mirik is the Orange Country Retreat, comprising a dozen two-story hilltop cottages. The retreat is more pricey than Mirik's other lodgings but still a good value. The cottages have tremendous views of the countryside and mountains. Mirik village.
For More Information
Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council Tourism Office Jawahar Road West, Darjeeling; tel. +91 (0)354 225 4879.
Kurseong, Sikkim, Information
Mirik, Sikkim, Information
Kaziranga National Park
Located in the northeast Indian state of Assam, UNESCO World Heritage-listed Kaziranga National Park is famous for being one of the last refuges of the Indian one-horned rhinoceros. This 166-square-mile (430-square-kilometer) park is made up of vast swathes of open grasslands, forested highlands, flood plains, and swamps, and is the region's most popular wildlife-viewing site.
How to Get There
Kaziranga can be accessed by bus from a number of towns including Guwahati, Jorhat, Tezpur, and Dibrugarh. You may prefer to hire a private taxi, which gives you the freedom to travel at your leisure. Alternatively, organized tours to Kaziranga National Park are conducted from Guwahati—for recommendations consult reputable guidebooks or inquire at the Assam Tourism office in Guwahati (Tourist Lodge, Station Road, Guwahati; tel. +91 [0]361 254 7102).
How to Get Around
There are jeep tours of the park and you can also take a short elephant ride.
Attractions
The Kaziranga National Park is not only home to the rare one-horned rhino, it's also inhabited by other animals including elephants, tigers (rarely spotted), buffalo, deer, and a multitude of birdlife. The park has an estimated 2,000 one-horned rhinos, making it one of the world's largest populations.
Places to Stay and Eat
The eco-conscious Wild Grass Resort is the most sought-after place to stay in Kaziranga. It offers comfortable accommodation in dormitories, lodge rooms, tents, or cottages, and it even has a swimming pool. On site is a good restaurant, and the lodge often arranges cultural entertainment such as dance/music performances. Reservations are recommended. Located less than three miles (five kilometers) east of the village center; tel. +91 (0)3776 262085; e-mail maan_barua@satyam.net.in.
Also good is the Aranya Lodge, which has middle-priced rooms (and cottages) set in a leafy garden. Many rooms have their own balconies, and all have televisions. Meals and beverages are available at the hotel's Buffalo Bar and Rhino Restaurant. Kaziranga village; tel. +91 (0)3776 262429.
General Tips
The Kaziranga National Park is open to visitors from November to April.
For More Information
Kaziranga Tourist Complex Located at the park; tel. +91 (0)3776 268095.
Assam Tourism, Guwahati Tourist Lodge, Station Road, Guwahati; tel. +91 (0)361 254 7102.
UNESCO World Heritage
Guwahati
The capital of Assam, Guwahati is the gateway for exploring this remote part of India. Situated on the banks of the Brahmaputra River, this bustling town of more than 800,000 has seen rapid expansion in recent years, largely due to the burgeoning tea industry.
How to Get There
Guwahati can be reached by air, with domestic flights from a number of Indian cities including Kolkata, Delhi, Agartala and Jorhat. State-operated and private buses also travel here from neighboring towns; Guwahati's main bus hub is the Paltan Bazaar bus station (Assam Trunk Road). The city is also on the rail network and includes several daily trains from Kolkata (West Bengal).
How to Get Around
There's a local minibus service as well as private or share-taxis.
Attractions
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Umananda Temple is located at Peacock Island, on the Brahmaputra River. This 16th-century temple can be accessed by boats that depart from Guwahati's Kachari Ghat (Mahatma Gandhi Road).
The Assam State Museum has an interesting collection of relics that include devotional sculptures and natural history displays (near the railway station).
Guwahati has some buzzing bazaars (including the Pan, Paltan and Fancy Bazaars) selling all sorts of consumer items, as well as Assamese silk and handwoven baskets.
Places to Eat
Most travelers choose to dine in the hotel restaurants, but there is a smattering of decent (independent) dining options in town.
For fabulous coffee, tea, and sweet treats (including cakes, muffins, and donuts) or sandwiches, there's Café Coffee Day, part of a popular nationwide chain. Guwahati-Shillong Road.
JB's cooks up some of the town's tastiest north and south Indian food (vegetarian only) at reasonable prices. Chinese food is also available. A tantalizing pastiche of sticky Indian sweets and savory snacks are also available here. Fancy Bazaar, Mahatma Gandhi Road; tel. +91 (0)361 260 3448.
In the Hotel Dynasty is the worthwhile Tandoori restaurant, moderately priced. It offers scrumptious Mughlai dishes as well as kebab and tandoori (clay-oven cooked) fare. Hotel Dynasty, S.S. Road.
Places to Stay
Guwahati has widely priced accommodations, but with relatively few top-end offerings.
The centrally air-conditioned Brahmaputra Ashok has 49 well-kept, spacious rooms with traditional Assamese designs blended with contemporary styles. Some rooms have sterling river views. There's an in-house bar, several multicuisine restaurants and a beauty parlor. Mahatma Gandhi Road; tel. +91 (0)361 260 2281; e-mail brahmaputra@satyam.net.in.
Another sound choice is the semi-luxurious Hotel Dynasty, centrally located and well-appointed with good food in the hotel restaurant. S.S. Road; tel. +91 (0)361 251 6021; e-mail dynasty_hotel@sify.com.
The corporate-style three-star Hotel Nandan is also popular. It has 58 modern rooms, all with satellite TV and pleasant furnishings. There's a restaurant on the premises. Guwahati-Shillong Road; tel. +91 (0)361 254 0855.
General Tips
Before setting off to explore outlying regions, gauge the current security situation, as this part of India has suffered ongoing insurgency problems; the local newspaper and the tourist office are good sources of information.
For More Information
Assam Tourism Tourist Lodge, Station Road; tel. +91 (0)361 254 7102.
India Tourism Guwahati-Shillong Road; tel. +91 (0)361 234 1598; e-mail indtour@asm.nic.in.