Kolkata (Calcutta)

Once the capital of British India, today Kolkata (formerly called Calcutta) is India's second-largest city and a major international gateway for travelers. Most visitors only spend a night or two here, but if you set aside a few days to explore this rambunctious city, you'll be pleasantly surprised. A metropolis of over 13 million people, Kolkata has long been heralded as India's intellectual and cultural capital, evidence of which can be seen in the city's impressive array of galleries, museums, temples, colonial architecture, and performing arts venues.

How to Get There
Kolkata is a major center for international flights. It also has an extensive domestic air schedule linking it to many major and minor Indian cities. You can also get here by bus or train. Opt for a train where possible (especially for long trips) as they're far more comfortable than buses. The city has two major train stations: Howrah station, which caters to most western and southern destinations, and Sealdah station, which connects Kolkata to Siliguri (West Bengal) and the northeastern states.

How to Get Around
Kolkata's underground Metro rail system is an efficient and economical way to travel within the city, while the tram system only has limited services. Avoid the city buses, which are claustrophobically overcrowded. Kolkata is one of India's last places with human-powered rickshaws, found only in certain parts of the city and slowly being phased out. There is no dearth of taxis—to avoid overcharges, catch one from the prepaid taxi booth fronting the Howrah station. Auto- and cycle-rickshaws are available in Howrah as well as in a handful of other neighborhoods (always negotiate a fare before setting off). To cross the Hooghly River, other than via the Howrah Bridge, you can catch one of the ferries that ply the route between Howrah station and the Babu and Fairlie Ghats.

Attractions
The majestic Victoria Memorial is a grand legacy of the British Raj, with galleries exhibiting memorabilia from that era as well as a section devoted to India's campaign for independence.

Built by an Indian raja (nobleman) in the mid-19th century, the intriguing Marble Palace houses an eclectic mix of items, from ceramic dogs to marble busts. To visit, you must first get permission from either the West Bengal Tourist Center (3/2 BBD Bagh; tel. +91 [0]33 2248 8271) or the India Tourist Office (4 Shakespeare Sarani; tel. +91 [0]33 2282 5813).

Kolkata is the birthplace of the iconic Bengali poet Rabindranath Tagore, who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1913. Housed in his former family residence, which is also his resting place, is the Rabindra Bharati Museum. The museum displays various pieces once belonging to Tagore as well as paintings by Indian artists. In the evening, there's a sound-and-light show (except on Mondays). 6/4 Dwarakanath Tagore Lane.

It may seem a bit ghoulish, but the peaceful Park Street Cemetery is worth a visit to get a different angle on Kolkata's colonial past. There are some fascinating epitaphs including one to Rose Aylmer, whose untimely death was linked to her pineapple addiction! Near the southeast end of Park Street.

The Indian Museum has an admirable collection, ranging from old devotional sculptures to edgy contemporary art. There's also a very good natural history section. 27 Jawaharlal Nehru Road.

Places to Eat
There's plenty of choice when it comes to eating out in Kolkata, with a particularly impressive string of smart restaurants in the Park Street area.

Kewpie's gives travelers the chance to eat authentic and delicious home-cooked Bengali food—indeed this little eatery is located in the owner's home. The menu has a focus on fish-based dishes. It's wise to book ahead. 2 Elgin Lane; tel. +91 (0)33 2475 9880.

Bengali mithai (sweets) are among India's most popular, and a top spot to sample some of them is at the long-established K.C. Das, which actually invented the legendary rossogolla (little balls of cottage cheese boiled in sugar syrup) back in 1868 as well as the popular rossomalai. 11A&B Esplanade East.

In vogue with the who's who of Kolkata, Mainland China is so popular that you may find yourself queuing for a table (tel. +91 [0]33 2283 7964; advance bookings are recommended). This very classy restaurant gets kudos for its excellent Chinese fare, with main courses ranging from around $4-15. 3-A Gurusaday Road.

One of Kolkata's most atmospheric establishments is Peter Cat. It may not have the glamour of other restaurants in this area, but it oozes a charismatic charm of its very own. Opening back in the swinging sixties, this dimly lit cocktail bar/restaurant cooks up commendable Indian fare, served by courteous waiters decked out in smart cummerbunds and bow ties. 18 Park Street; +91 (0)33 2229 8841.

Places to Stay
Kolkata's budget and mid-range offerings are, regrettably, nothing to rave about; the city's upper-end hotels are far better value for the money. Be aware that many lower- and mid-priced properties lock their gates after 10:30 p.m. (inform them in advance if you expect to get back late).

The very swish Oberoi Grand has all the lavish touches you'd expect of a world-class five-star property. This historic hotel has beautifully appointed rooms, each with a DVD player. The more expensive suites are sheer luxury, with polished teakwood floors, fine furnishings, and marshmallow-soft beds (some suites have four-poster beds). On-site are a spa, health center, and several good restaurants. 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Road; tel. +91 (0)33 2249 2323.

The large Great Eastern Hotel, built almost 165 years ago, is still one of Kolkata's better mid-range options, despite being a bit worn and weary (currently under renovation, it is scheduled to reopen in 2007). There are 200 rooms, all tidy and pleasantly furnished. On the premises are three restaurants: Jade Garden (Chinese), Shah-en-Shah (Indian), and the 24-hour Coffee Shop. 1-3 Old Court House Street; tel. +91 (0)33 2248 2311.

Geared primarily to business travelers, the centrally located, 122-room Peerless Inn has modern, comfortable rooms, some with sterling city views. All rooms are equipped with tea- and coffee-making facilities, mini-refrigerators, and safes. The hotel's Aaheli restaurant serves tasty traditional Bengali fare; the excellent thalis (all-you-can-eat meals) offer a selection of dishes. 12 Jawaharlal Nehru Road; tel. +91 (0)33-2228 0301.

General Tips
To find out what cultural events are taking place at the time of your visit, get a copy of the information-packed booklet, Cal Calling ($0.50) and the Kolkata This Fortnight pamphlet (free). Both are available at the West Bengal Tourist Center (3/2 BBD Bagh; tel. +91 [0]33 2248 8271) and a handful of hotels. Expat Aussie Martyn Brown (e-mail traveleastindia@gmail.com) leads personalized walking tours through the city. He has lived here for ten years, and knows every nook and cranny of the old markets, and the back streets that have no names.

For More Information
West Bengal Government
West Bengal Tourist Center 3/2 BBD Bagh; tel. +91 (0)33 2248 8271.
India Tourist Office 4 Shakespeare Sarani; tel. +91 (0)33 2282 5813.