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Bhubaneshwar

A city with a vibrant legacy of sculpture, art, architecture, and spirituality, Bhubaneshwar attracts just a trickle of visitors, most of whom have a specific interest in temples. Although the town's most famous temple, the Lingaraja Temple, is officially only open to Hindus, there are scores of lesser-known places of worship that welcome non-Hindus and warrant a visit.

How to Get There
Bhubaneshwar can be reached by air, train, and bus. There are frequent plane and train services from major centers such as Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Chennai. Most buses drop passengers at the Baramunda bus station.

How to Get Around
The best modes of transport within town are taxis, autorickshaws, and cycle rickshaws.

Attractions
The striking 177-foot-high (54-meter) Lingaraja Temple has sections that span back over 1,400 years. Dedicated to Lord Tribhuvaneswar, this auspicious temple is only open to Hindus, although non-Hindus can sneak a peak from a designated viewing platform.

Accessible to non-Hindus, the small Mukteswar Temple has detailed carvings and is considered to be one of Bhubaneshwar's most elaborate temples. Constructed in the tenth century, its highlight is the stunning curved torana (architrave).

Also worth a look is the ninth-century Brahmeswar Temple, which has intricately carved sculptures of deities and dancers.

Odissi (one of India's oldest forms of classical dance) performances occasionally take place at various venues in town. To find out if one is on during the time of your visit, peruse the daily newspaper and inquire at Orissa Tourism (Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus; tel. +91 [0]674 243 2177).

To see some of the state's finest (rarest) palm-leaf manuscript collections, tribal artifacts, assorted weaponry, and more, visit the State Museum. Kalpana Square.

Places to Eat
Bhubaneshwar has a very limited choice of restaurants, with most of the better places found in a selection of hotels.

The chefs at Deep Down South create some of the town's tastiest dosas and also do a splendid job when it comes to traditional mithai. The prices are very reasonable. Marrion Hotel Complex, 6 Janpath; tel. +91 (0)674 238 0850.

Tulsi specializes in pure vegetarian fare and gets a round of applause for its filling thalis. Main dishes are under $2. Hotel Pushpak, Kalpana Square.

Places to Stay
Bhubaneshwar has accommodations to fit all budgets, making it a good place to base yourself while visiting the surrounding attractions.

The upmarket Mayfair Lagoon has luxurious cottage-style accommodations in a well-tended jungle setting, complete with a swimming pool. Jaydev Vihar; tel. +91 (0)674 236 0101.

The Hotel Sishmo offers good-quality rooms, some with distant views of the temples. There are 64 standard rooms and eight suites, all very comfortable if a little lacking in style. Facilities include a swimming pool, selection of restaurants, and a small gym. 86/A-1 Gautam Nagar; tel. +91 (0)674 243 3600.

For those catching a train, there's the conveniently located Hotel Richi, right by the station. The rooms are reasonable considering the mid-priced rates (air-conditioned rooms are more expensive). The hotel has 24-hour checkout and a handy round-the-clock coffee shop. 122-A Station Square; tel. +91 (0)674 253 4619.

General Tips
The Ekamra Haat (next to the Exhibition Ground, Madhusudan Marg) is a government-sponsored craft village in Bhubaneshwar that is the best one-stop shopping place in Orissa state. There you'll find handloomed cottons and silks from the tribal areas, beautiful Orissa tussar silk saris, and ornate tribal jewelry. Since almost all the wares are produced (and labeled) by village cooperatives, you can be sure the work is authentic.

For More Information
Orissa Tourism Paryatan Bhawan, Museum Campus; tel. +91 (0)674 243 2177.

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