Darjeeling
This picturesque, 7,001-foot (3,134-meter) hill station—which served as a cool summer retreat for the English during the Raj—is especially well known for its production of tea. Flanked by towering mountains, including Kanchenjunga, elevation 28,208 feet (8,598 meters), Darjeeling has views that are truly dramatic—a great way to fully savor them is by taking a trek in the surrounding countryside.
How to Get There
The most romantic way to access Darjeeling is by hopping the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, also known as the "Toy Train," a narrow-gauge train that has been chugging up and down the hill since 1881. The train departs from the New Jalpaiguri station (near Siliguri) and takes around six and a half hours (picking up passengers at Kurseong) to reach Darjeeling; advance bookings are recommended. Two-hour "joy rides" on this train are also possible for those who don't have time to take the full journey. Apart from the Toy Train, you can get to Darjeeling by bus as well as by share-jeeps and taxis, which all make frequent trips between Darjeeling and surrounding towns, including Siliguri.
How to Get Around
You can easily get around "downtown" Darjeeling by foot. For longer trips, catch one of the numerous share-jeeps which cost just a fraction of what you'd pay for a private taxi.
Attractions
Riding on the "Toy Train" is one of the town's glowing attractions, giving passengers the chance to see the breathtakingly beautiful scenery en route to Darjeeling—for more information see the "How to Get There" section, above.
You can get an insight into the tea-making process at the Makaibari Tea Estates, which offers not only tours but also lodging and mountain and jungle treks. Those keen to purchase tea to take back home should visit Nathmulls Tea Cosy, which sells a variety of well-packaged products; their website has some fabulous links, including tea recipes and the history of Darjeeling tea. Laden La Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 7309.
Located around eight miles (12.8 kilometers) south of Darjeeling is Tiger Hill, which has stunning views of the surrounding mountains, including Kanchenjunga. You can even catch a distant glimpse of Mount Everest. The best time to visit is at the crack of dawn, when the sight of the rising sun is positively magical.
In the Darjeeling vicinity you'll find some notable Buddhist monasteries, including the Bhutia Busty Gompa and the Yiga Choeling Gompa, each built in the 19th century and containing fine murals.
The top spot to book white-water rafting expeditions (these range from a couple of hours to a couple of days) is from Darjeeling, even though the trips themselves often depart from the Teesta Bazaar (around ten miles [16 kilometers] from Kalimpong; Kalimpong is about 31 miles [50 kilometers] from Darjeeling). Boating is along the rapids of the Rangeet and Teesta Rivers, with prime rafting seasons September to November and March to June.
Places to Eat
You'll find some terrific places to eat in Darjeeling, including restaurants that dish out global fare, from Mexican-style enchiladas to Italian pasta and Tibetan momos (fried or steamed stuffed dumplings). Many restaurants in Darjeeling close as early as 8 p.m.
The food, views, ambience and service at Glenary's Restaurant and Bar have made it popular with travelers. It's especially well-known for its mouth-watering tandoori (clay-oven cooked) fare. On site is also a café—the perfect place to unwind over a hot cup of Darjeeling tea and a slice of cake. Nehru Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 7554.
For tasty Tibetan food, head straight for Kunga's restaurant, which offers cheap and delicious dishes, from squishy momos to nourishing thukpa (noodle-based soup). 51 Gandhi Road.
Cheap and cheerful, the Park restaurant cooks splendid Indian and Thai cuisine. The Thai red curry won't disappoint. 41 Laden La Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 5270.
Places to Stay
Room rates skyrocket April to June and October to December, so come at other times to save money.
A competitively priced, top-end choice is the Elgin, a historic hotel with colonial charm. Most rooms are fitted out with open fireplaces and rustic furnishings. There's a relaxing garden area. 18 H.D. Lama Road; tel. +91 (0)354 225 7226; e-mail elgin@elginhotels.com.
Another character-filled place is the Mayfair Hill Resort, which is set in sprawling gardens and was once a royal summer retreat. The elegant rooms are beautifully decorated with old-style furniture and sumptuous fabrics. The Mall, opposite Governor House; tel. +91 (0)354 225 6376.
An appealing mid-priced option is the unpretentious Bellevue Hotel, which boasts views of Kanchenjunga and has spacious, cheery rooms. Chowrasta; tel. +91 (0)354 225 4075.
One of the best budget offerings is down-to-earth Andy's Guest House. The rooms are well-kept, the owner is welcoming, and the rooftop has pleasing views. Dr. Zakir Hussain Road.
General Tips
To tap into the traveler's grapevine, pop into Joey's Pub (2 S.M. Das Road), a popular watering hole (it closes around 10 p.m.). tel. +91 (0)354 225 8216.
For More Information
Darjeeling Gorkha Autonomous Hill Council Tourism Office Jawahar Road West; tel. +91 (0)354 225 4879.
Darjeeling News
West Bengal Tourism
Explore Darjeeling
West Bengal Tourist Information Center Darjeeling railway station.
Tourist Information Center New Car Park, Laden La Road.
