Guwahati

The capital of Assam, Guwahati is the gateway for exploring this remote part of India. Situated on the banks of the Brahmaputra River, this bustling town of more than 800,000 has seen rapid expansion in recent years, largely due to the burgeoning tea industry.

How to Get There
Guwahati can be reached by air, with domestic flights from a number of Indian cities including Kolkata, Delhi, Agartala and Jorhat. State-operated and private buses also travel here from neighboring towns; Guwahati's main bus hub is the Paltan Bazaar bus station (Assam Trunk Road). The city is also on the rail network and includes several daily trains from Kolkata (West Bengal).

How to Get Around
There's a local minibus service as well as private or share-taxis.

Attractions
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Umananda Temple is located at Peacock Island, on the Brahmaputra River. This 16th-century temple can be accessed by boats that depart from Guwahati's Kachari Ghat (Mahatma Gandhi Road).

The Assam State Museum has an interesting collection of relics that include devotional sculptures and natural history displays (near the railway station).

Guwahati has some buzzing bazaars (including the Pan, Paltan and Fancy Bazaars) selling all sorts of consumer items, as well as Assamese silk and handwoven baskets.

Places to Eat
Most travelers choose to dine in the hotel restaurants, but there is a smattering of decent (independent) dining options in town.

For fabulous coffee, tea, and sweet treats (including cakes, muffins, and donuts) or sandwiches, there's Café Coffee Day, part of a popular nationwide chain. Guwahati-Shillong Road.

JB's cooks up some of the town's tastiest north and south Indian food (vegetarian only) at reasonable prices. Chinese food is also available. A tantalizing pastiche of sticky Indian sweets and savory snacks are also available here. Fancy Bazaar, Mahatma Gandhi Road; tel. +91 (0)361 260 3448.

In the Hotel Dynasty is the worthwhile Tandoori restaurant, moderately priced. It offers scrumptious Mughlai dishes as well as kebab and tandoori (clay-oven cooked) fare. Hotel Dynasty, S.S. Road.

Places to Stay
Guwahati has widely priced accommodations, but with relatively few top-end offerings.

The centrally air-conditioned Brahmaputra Ashok has 49 well-kept, spacious rooms with traditional Assamese designs blended with contemporary styles. Some rooms have sterling river views. There's an in-house bar, several multicuisine restaurants and a beauty parlor. Mahatma Gandhi Road; tel. +91 (0)361 260 2281; e-mail brahmaputra@satyam.net.in.

Another sound choice is the semi-luxurious Hotel Dynasty, centrally located and well-appointed with good food in the hotel restaurant. S.S. Road; tel. +91 (0)361 251 6021; e-mail dynasty_hotel@sify.com.

The corporate-style three-star Hotel Nandan is also popular. It has 58 modern rooms, all with satellite TV and pleasant furnishings. There's a restaurant on the premises. Guwahati-Shillong Road; tel. +91 (0)361 254 0855.

General Tips
Before setting off to explore outlying regions, gauge the current security situation, as this part of India has suffered ongoing insurgency problems; the local newspaper and the tourist office are good sources of information.

For More Information
Assam Tourism Tourist Lodge, Station Road; tel. +91 (0)361 254 7102.
India Tourism Guwahati-Shillong Road; tel. +91 (0)361 234 1598; e-mail indtour@asm.nic.in.