Bikaner

A large number of travelers come to Bikaner solely to visit the nearby Karni Mata Temple (often referred to as the Temple of the Rats), but Bikaner also has some fine attractions, most notably the glorious Junagarh Fort, that warrant more than just a fleeting visit.

How to Get There
There are buses to Bikaner from a range of Rajasthani towns, including Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Ajmer, Udaipur, and Jaipur. Buses also operate from Delhi and Agra. Train services are another option, with Bikaner connected to a handful of towns, including Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Delhi. To get to the Karni Mata Temple (located about 19 miles [30 kilometers] from Bikaner) catch a local bus or take an autorickshaw or taxi; a taxi is more advisable given the distance of the trip.

How to Get Around
There are plenty of autorickshaws to zip you around Bikaner. Taxis are also available.

Attractions
Built in the second half of the 16th century, Bikaner's Junagarh Fort is one of Rajasthan's most remarkable fort complexes, with almost 40 bastions punctuating its ramparts. The complex is made up of a number of palaces that include the Badal Mahal (Palace of Clouds) and Phool Mahal (Palace of Flowers).

Also worth a look in Bikaner is the red-sandstone Lalgarh Palace, which has a museum containing some truly intriguing pieces of royal paraphernalia, such as a former maharaja's roller skates!

The mind-boggling Karni Mata Temple, located in the small village of Deshnok (about 19 miles [30 kilometers] south of Bikaner), is dedicated to rats, and there are thousands of them here. These rodents are believed to be manifestations of auspicious storytellers and ancestors of Karni Mata, to whom the temple is dedicated. As this is a place of worship, shoes must be removed before entering the temple—if a rat scurries over your feet it's deemed to be good luck. Catching sight of a white rat is considered even more propitious.

Places to Eat
Bikaner has few outstanding places to eat—some of the mid-range and top-end hotels have the city's most interesting dining options.

Part of a hotel, the dining room at Bhanwar Niwas is a popular choice, offering delicious, wholesome vegetarian creations (mainly Indian). Those not staying at the hotel must make an advance booking (tel. +91 [0]151 252 9323). Rampuri Haveli, Old City (near the police station).

To tuck into some of Bikaner's best mithai (Indian sweets), go to the Chhotu Motu Joshi Sweet Shop, which showcases a colorful pastiche of sticky delights, including old favorites barfi (a milk-based type of fudge) and gulab jamun (deep-fried balls of dough, doused in sweet syrup). Station Road.

If you're looking for somewhere to fill up before catching a train, try Amber, which is nothing fancy in terms of its decor, but is conveniently close to the railway station. It serves inexpensive vegetarian dishes, including some south Indian choices. Station Road.

Places to Stay
Apart from its hotels, Bikaner also offers travelers the opportunity to stay with an Indian family (as a paying guest)—for details contact the Tourist Reception Center (see the "For More Information" section, below).

Full of charisma, Bhanwar Niwas is one of Bikaner's most character-filled places to stay. Set in an old haveli (traditional-style residence), its 26 spacious and lovingly decorated rooms are arranged around a courtyard. In the lobby are two vintage cars, including a Buick. Rampuri Haveli, Old City (near the police station); tel. +91 (0)151 252 9323.

Also worth considering is the elegant Laxmi Niwas Palace, which is part of the Lalgarh Palace compound. The good-size rooms have been beautifully refurbished, retaining many original pieces, such as old paintings and gorgeous wood (or brass) four-poster beds. There's a multi-cuisine restaurant, which includes some excellent local specialties. Lalgarh Palace, Dr. Karni Singhji Road; tel. +91 (0)151 252 1188.

The moderately priced, 120-year-old Bhairon Vilas is another good choice. The rooms are imaginatively decorated and filled with old furnishings, including some art deco pieces and lovely antique fittings. Meals are available, and the owner is happy to proffer information about the city. Near Junagarh Fort; tel. +91 (0)151 254 4751; e-mail hbhairon@rediffmail.com.

For More Information
Tourist Reception Center RTDC Hotel Dhola Maru compound, near Pooran Singh Circle; tel. +91 (0)151 222 6701.
Rajasthan Tourism