Udaipur

With its rolling hills and whimsical palaces, including one in the middle of a lake, Udaipur looks like it has been lifted straight from the pages of a fairy tale. Founded by Maharana Udai Singh II in the mid-16th century, this enigmatic city of lakes has been featured in countless magazines and films, and despite all the tourist hype, Udaipur has managed to retain a mystical, pristine charm.

How to Get There
Domestic airlines connect Udaipur to Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, and Jodhpur. There are limited rail connections, making it easier to get here by one of the many state-run and privately operated buses that link Udaipur to other Rajasthani cities, as well as to neighboring centers such as Agra (Uttar Pradesh) and Ahmadabad (Gujarat).

How to Get Around
Taxis and autorickshaws are widely available, but make sure you negotiate a fare before jumping in (people arriving at the bus or train stations can use the fairly priced pre-paid autorickshaw stands located there, which don't require haggling). Bicycles and motorcycles can be hired at several outlets around town (inquire at your hotel or ask at the tourist office).

Attractions
Take a short boat ride from the jetty (often referred to as Bansi Ghat) at the City Palace to nearby Jag Mandir Island, which has the crumbling remains of a small (abandoned) 17th-century palace. Jag Mandir has some stunning carvings, including a row of huge elephants and a finely crafted cenotaph.

The dreamy Lake Palace Hotel, poetically placed in the middle of Lake Pichola, was once the exclusive summer residence of Udaipur's royal family. Today it is a sought-after five-star hotel that is often booked out for up to a year, sometimes even longer. Built in 1754 by Maharana Jagat Singh II, this snow-white palace is replete with lotus-pond-strewn courtyards, stylish restaurants, a pool, and luxurious guest rooms. North of Lake Pichola is the less touristy Fateh Sagar (Lake).

Not far from the Fateh Sagar (Lake) is Saheliyon ki Bari ("Garden of the Maids of Honor"). This slightly neglected decorative garden was established in the 18th century for women of the royal household. Due to the water shortages of recent times, its fountains are now only periodically turned on.

The sprawling City Palace complex (Rajasthan's biggest palace) is comprised of several opulent hotels and museums: the City Palace Museum houses an assorted collection of royal objects, including historic weapons and superb miniature paintings, while the Crystal Gallery, which looks onto a large plush hall (decked out with massive chandeliers), contains priceless crystal pieces including beds.

Places to Eat
There's a good choice of places to eat in Udaipur, from informal rooftop restaurants to posh palace dining halls. Some of the best places are found in the hotels.

The trendy Savage Garden has plenty of character, with midnight-blue walls and a soothing courtyard setting. There's an admirable mélange of Indian and continental dishes, including some inventive fusion fare. 22 Inside Chandpole; tel. +91 (0)294 242 5440.

Most romantic in the evening, the open-air courtyard restaurant (tables are scattered around the marble pool) at the Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel is recommended, with Indian musicians often playing during the tourist season. Their Indian food is best. Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel, City Palace Complex; tel. +91 (0)294 252 8008.

Looking over Lake Pichola, the rooftop restaurant at the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel is very popular, and deservedly so. The food is tasty and the ambience is relaxing. It's wise to book ahead—request one of the cushioned alcoves overlooking the water (reservations at tel. +91 (0)294 242 0133). Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel, 23-25 Lal Ghat.

The rooftop restaurant at the Udai Kothi Hotel is also highly recommended, especially in the evening when it's at its most magical. The multi-cuisine food is just as pleasing as its setting, which offers panoramic views. Udai Kothi Hotel, Hanuman Ghat; tel. +91 (0)294 243 2810.

Places to Stay
Most travelers choose to stay close to Lake Pichola, and there are some appealing possibilities in this area, spanning all budgets.

The very swish Lake Palace Hotel, in the middle of Lake Pichola, has lovely rooms with Rajasthani touches such as carved wooden furniture and rich fabrics. Facilities include several restaurants, a bar, a swimming pool, small shopping arcade, and relaxing open-air courtyards. The more expensive rooms have lake views. Needless to say, advance bookings are essential. Lake Pichola; tel. +91 (0)294 252 8800.

Two other incredibly lavish places to stay are the Shiv Niwas Palace Hotel and the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel, both part of the City Palace Complex. The cheapest rooms offered at both places are appropriately posh but not nearly as palatial as the suites. Facilities (shared by both) include a marble pool, cozy bar, and several restaurants. City Palace Complex; tel. +91 (0)294 252 8008.

For those with less cash to splash, the mid-priced Udai Kothi is sure to put a smile on your face. The rooms are immaculate, with pretty furnishings and an understated elegance. There's a rooftop terrace that has superb lake views and one of Rajasthan's only rooftop swimming pools. Hanuman Ghat; tel. +91 (0)294 243 2810.

Another popular mid-range choice is the Jagat Niwas Palace Hotel, which is known for its lovely lake-facing restaurant. The rooms in this old haveli (traditional-style residence) are clean and comfortable; you pay extra for the lake-view rooms. 23-25 Lal Ghat; tel. +91 (0)294 242 0133; e-mail mail@jagatniwaspalace.com.

A sound budget option is the friendly Hotel Udai Niwas which has clean and tidy rooms, some with traditional Rajasthani flourishes such as colorful wall-hangings and paintings. This place is not right on the lake, but the rooftop restaurant has views of it, as well as of the old city. Gangaur Marg; tel. +91 (0)294 241 4303.

General Tips
The best place to watch the sunset in Udaipur would have to be at the aptly named Sunset View Terrace (part of the City Palace Complex), which overlooks Lake Pichola.

For More Information
Tourist Reception Center Fateh Memorial Building, south of Delhi Gate; tel. +91 (0)294 241 1535.
Rajasthan Tourism
Udaipur Tourism
India Tourism