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Jaisalmer

Rising out of a vast, barren desert, Jaisalmer—the "Golden City"—is sheer magic. Dominated by its huge honey-colored fort, this remote desert outpost, once on the strategic trading route between central Asia and India, is today a veritable magnet for tourists. A camel ride through the windswept Thar Desert has become a must-do on most people's travel itineraries.

How to Get There
There are presently no domestic flights operating to/from Jaisalmer; however, this could change in the future (inquire with your travel agent). There are frequent train services from Jodhpur, as well as rail connections between Jaipur and Delhi. State-operated and privately owned buses travel here from a number of Rajasthani cities including Jodhpur, Jaipur, and Bikaner.

How to Get Around
There are autorickshaws and jeeps to get you around town; jeeps can also be hired to explore Jaisalmer's environs. Be aware that Jaisalmer's autorickshaw drivers invariably inflate fares for foreign tourists, so make sure you have some idea of what you should be paying (ask at the tourist office or at your hotel).

Attractions
Built in 1156, the magnificent sandstone Jaisalmer Fort contains narrow, winding lanes lined with private homes, small hotels, restaurants, and shops. It also has a seven-story palace (partly accessible to visitors), as well as an open courtyard and several temples, including some superb Jain ones.

Jaisalmer has some outstanding, intricately carved sandstone havelis (traditional-style residences) that were constructed by prosperous traders. The most stunning of these is the 19th-century Patwon ki Haveli, but you should also take a look at the beautiful Nathmal ki Haveli and Salim Singh ki Haveli.

There are oodles of camel-safari operators eager to whisk away tourists on Thar Desert jaunts that range from a few hours to a few days. Most safaris take place in the Sam sand dunes, situated about 25 miles (40 kilometers) out of Jaisalmer. It's also possible to take camel treks to the village of Khuri, also around 25 miles (40 kilometers) from Jaisalmer.

Places to Eat
Given the catastrophic effects tourism is having on the fragile Jaisalmer Fort—it has been classified as one of the most endangered monuments in the world—we have refrained from recommending places to eat in the fort itself.

The Natraj Restaurant serves sensational Indian food and has some good views over the nearby Salim Singh ki Haveli. The prices are very reasonable and the staff courteous. Adjacent to the Salim Singh ki Haveli.

Trio offers very satisfying Indian and continental food on its rooftop and has entertainment on most evenings in the form of Rajasthani musicians. You can get a view of the fort from here. Gandhi Chowk.

Also popular is Desert Boy's Dhani, which has seating in an enclosed garden setting. It specializes in (yummy) Indian vegetarian food at competitive prices. Seemagram Campus.

Places to Stay
Given the dire effects tourism is having on the fragile fort—it has been classified as one of the most endangered monuments in the world—we have refrained from recommending places to stay in the fort itself.

The welcoming family-run Hotel Renuka has budget-priced rooms that are a good value—the more expensive ones (which are still wonderfully inexpensive) come with attached bathrooms and balconies. The rooftop has a decent restaurant and sports fort views. Chinpura Street, tel. +91 (0)2992 252757; e-mail hotelrenuka@rediffmail.com.

The mid-priced Shahi Palace Hotel is a handsome sandstone property that offers quaint rooms with carved window frames and rustic furniture. The small open-air rooftop restaurant is just the spot to relax after a hectic day of sightseeing. Shiv Road; tel. +91 (0)2992 255920.

A recommended top-end hotel is Fort Rajwada, several miles east of the center. Surrounded by landscaped gardens, the rooms are sumptuously appointed with traditional Rajasthani design styles combined with modern amenities. There are several very good restaurants, a health club, billiard room, and swimming pool. 1 Hotel Complex, Jodhpur-Barmer Link Road; tel. +91 (0)2992 253233.

For More Information
Tourist Reception Center Station Road; tel. +91 (0)2992 252406.
Rajasthan Tourism
Jaisalmer Tourism
India Tourism

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