Mysore

Prior to India's independence from British rule, the princely state of Mysore was one of the subcontinent's largest and most prosperous kingdoms. Legacies of its royal past can still be seen today, most notably the colossal City Palace complex, which is the city's major tourist draw. Mysore is also famous for its production of sandalwood, incense, and silk.

How to Get There
Mysore can be reached by train or bus. The Central Bus Stand on the Bangalore-Mysore Road is the hub for all long-distance buses.

How to Get Around
Taxis and autorickshaws are the most convenient and economical way to whiz around the city. Note that while most autorickshaws use their meters, far fewer taxis do, so make sure you negotiate a fare first.

Attractions
Construction of the very grand City Palace was completed in 1912 for the then-huge sum of over four million rupees. This Indo-Saracenic palace certainly has a swanky interior, with awesome carved wooden doors and rainbow-hued stained windows. On special occasions, such as the festival of Dussehra (September/October), the palace is lit up at night with an estimated 100,000 lightbulbs.

Overlooking the city is Chamundi Hill, which is where you'll find the Sri Chamundeshwari Temple as well as a 16-foot-high (five-meter) rock carving of Nandi, the mythical bull that served as Lord Shiva's steed.

Places to Eat
Mysore has a reasonably good restaurant scene, but most of the best places to eat are found in the better hotels.

If you wish to dine in regal surroundings (without spending a king's ransom), there's the soft-blue, Wedgewood-designed restaurant at the Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel (see Places to Stay, below). The menu offers a bit of everything—continental, Chinese, and Indian (northern and southern). Lalitha Mahal City Palace, several miles east of the city center.

For tasty thalis (all-you-can-eat meals), served on real banana leaves, drop into the Hotel RRR. Apart from being delicious, the meals served here are also a super value. You can choose from a selection of vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. Hotel RRR, Gandhi Square.

The Parklane Hotel has an attractive garden courtyard that's especially romantic at night when it's lit up with twinkling candles. The menu sports Indian, Chinese, and continental dishes, which diners can eat while listening to live music. Parklane Hotel, Sri Harsha Road.

Places to Stay
The city has lodgings to suit all pockets, but be aware that they can get booked out during the Dussehra festival (September/October)—book ahead if you plan visiting at this time. Some hotels raise their tariffs during Dussehra.

For budget travelers, a good bet is the Hotel Dasaprakash, which has pleasing rooms (some even come with antique furniture) and affable service. Amenities include a restaurant, ice-cream shop and travel agency. Gandhi Square; tel. +91 (0)821 244 2444; e-mail hoteldasaprakash@sancharnet.in.

The Ritz Hotel has just four rooms (half its charm), all lovingly decorated, which open onto a communal sitting and dining area. Guests can enjoy an evening drink at the little bar. Bangalore-Mysore Road; tel. +91 (0)821 242 2668.

The fanciest place to stay in Mysore is the Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel, which was once exclusively reserved for the maharaja of Mysore's personal guests. Situated on a small hill and set in well-manicured gardens, this domed white palace has a range of room categories—all of the 54 rooms are suitably aristocratic, but the palace-wing suites are truly regal. Several miles east of the city center; tel. +91 (0)821 247 0476.

General Tips
To buy pure sandalwood oil head straight for the government-operated Sandalwood Oil Factory at Ashokapuram (off Mananthody Road).

For More Information
Karnataka Tourism Old Exhibition Building, Irwin Road; tel. +91 (0)821 242 2096.
Karnataka.com