Pondicherry

Pondicherry, affectionately dubbed Pondy by the locals, oozes a convivial mélange of India and France—where you can tuck into crepes or parathas for breakfast, bouillabaisse or masala dosa for lunch, and fish curry or coq au vin for dinner. A French colony until 1954, this captivating coast-hugging town—with its broad boulevards, a picturesque seaside promenade, renowned ashram, and beguiling blend of Indian and French architecture—has long been rated by travelers as a glowing highlight of their subcontinental sojourn.

How to Get There
Most travelers come to Pondicherry by bus; from Chennai there are several dozen daily buses with most departing from the Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus (the trip takes four hours). For more comfort opt for the slightly more expensive privately operated buses (most with offices opposite Chennai's Egmore train station). Alternatively, hire your own chauffeur-driven car, which is surprisingly affordable, especially if there are a few passengers to split the cost (expect to pay around $35 total); seek out a reputable car hire company by speaking to fellow travelers for recommendations or choosing a travel agency that belongs to an accredited association such as the Travel Agents Association of India.

How to Get Around
With its wide and relatively flat streets, Pondicherry is easily explored on foot or by bicycle (many bicycle rental shops can be found on MG Road and Mission Street). Mopeds and motorcycles can also be rented, provided you have an international drivers licence. The town's many cycle- and autorickshaws are also economical; ask locals about fares, as tourists can be ridiculously overcharged.

Attractions
The old colonial quarter is a must-see with its striking mansions and villas, a number of which now house stylish galleries, hotels and boutiques. Here, you'll also find the Cluny Embroidery Center where underprivileged women are taught the delicate art of hand embroidery.

The Pondicherry Museum has an extraordinary jumble of exhibits, from ancient Indian sculptures to fascinating French colonial items including a 19th-century pousse pousse (rickshaw-like contraption).

For spiritual sustenance, visit the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, established in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and a French lady known as "The Mother." The ashram offers yoga courses for visitors. (For details write in advance to bureaucentral@sriaurobindoashram.org.)

Places to Eat
Eating out is one of the star attractions of a visit to Pondicherry, with menus sporting commendable French favorites in addition to the usual Indian fare, all at reasonable prices.

Rendezvous is one of Pondy's most atmospheric places to dine, with its earthy bamboo rooftop section as well as a quaintly furnished downstairs dining room that conjures images of something straight from the French countryside. The chefs replicate French recipes with aplomb and the menu also flaunts a selection of Indian and Chinese fare—all enjoyed with a glass of French or Indian wine. 30 Suffren Street.

Madam Santhé has pleasant rooftop dining and scores gold stars for its Mediterranean-inspired food. Devour delectable deep-sea delights such as stuffed seasoned crab and garlic squid, or choose from a selection of hearty pastas and salads. 10 Lal Bahadhur Street.

For authentic wood-fired pizzas and freshly baked bread, try Au Feu de Bois, where you can eat on the rooftop courtyard or indoors. 36 Lal Bahadhur Street.

Satsanga is just the spot for a nourishing breakfast of yogurt-topped muesli followed by crepes or omelets. Set in the grounds of an old colonial home, this laid-back eatery also whips up good French and Italian specialities for lunch and dinner. 30-32 Labourdonnais Street.

Places to Stay
Mid-range and top-end lodgings in Pondicherry are among South India's most character-filled, with a clutch of delightful colonial homes that have been converted into quaint guesthouses. The most appealing locale is east of the canal.

Villa Helena, a beautiful colonial house, has just a handful of rooms—part of its immense appeal—each well-kept and with a delightful character of its own. Guests can chill out in the villa's serene courtyard. 13 Bussy Street; tel. +91 (0)413 222 6789.

A good budget choice is the sea-facing Park Guest House; request one of the front rooms, which boast ocean views and private balconies. Goubert Avenue; tel. +91 (0)413 223 3644.

For More luxury, consider the Hotel de l'Orient, a renovated 200-year-old colonial property with rooms arranged around a courtyard. Some of the rooms are noticeably larger than others, but all are attractively furnished, many with four-poster beds. 17 Romain Roland Street; tel. +91 (0)413 234 3067; e-mail orient1804@neemranahotels.com.

General Tips
The place to check your emails and hook up with fellow travelers over espresso coffee and baguettes is at the hip 'n' happening Coffee.Com. This popular meeting place has high-speed Internet connections, house-blended coffees, assorted teas, and an appetizing menu (fabulous ice cream!). There's also a widescreen television and collection of DVDs (charges apply). 236 Mission Street.

For More Information
Pondicherry Tourist Office, e-mail tourism@pon.nic.in