Udhagamandalam (Ooty)
Established in the early 19th century—when India was under British governance—Ooty (now officially called Udhagamandalam) served as the summer headquarters for Chennai-based English officials, offering cool respite from the sun-baked plains below. Today Ooty is one of India's most popular summer holiday destinations and although it lacks the serenity of its earlier days, there's still plenty of charm to be found in this scenic hilltop town.
How to Get There
Buses from various south Indian destinations travel daily to Ooty, but by far the most romantic way to get here is by the miniature (steam-engine) train from Mettupalayam; the 28.5-mile-trip (46 kilometers) takes about five hours. This train has awesome views of the countryside en route, including emerald-green tea plantations and waterfalls; for the best views, buy a first-class ticket (advance reservations recommended).
How to Get Around
Apart from walking, there are plenty of autorickshaws and taxis to whisk you around Ooty—many congregate around the bus station as well as at the upper end of Commercial Road. Bicycles can be cheaply rented from the bazaar.
Attractions
Worth a visit purely for its ambience and stunning book collection is the Nilgiri Library. Built in 1858, this historic building houses a staggering 40,000 books, including many rare titles. Decorating the library are pieces harking back to the British Raj, such as the portrait of Queen Victoria.
Apart from its magnificent wooden beams, which hail from the erstwhile palace of Tipu Sultan, the 19th-century St. Stephen's Church also has some noteworthy memorials in the adjoining cemetery, including the grave of Ooty's "founder," John Sullivan.
Inhale fresh air and admire the multitude of flora at the Botanical Gardens—there's even a fossilized tree trunk, said to be about 20 million years old. Rose aficionados will appreciate the Centenary Rose Park.
Places to Eat
Ooty has just a handful of notable restaurants; if you're strapped for cash, there are some simple vegetarian eateries on Main Bazaar and Commercial Road, where you can fill up for under $1.
The celebrated Shinkow's Chinese Restaurant cooks up good Chinese fare, from wok-tossed noodle dishes to a variety of hearty meat-based specialties. The prices are also appetizing, with main courses under $4. Commissioner's Road.
The Sidewalk Café does familiar fast-food favorites, from American-style burgers to Italian-inspired pizzas. For something lighter, try one of the soups and salads or simply slurp on a smoothie. Commercial Rd.
To fill your belly without emptying your money-belt, there's a terrific buffet lunch ($7) offered every Sunday at the Sullivan Court Hotel. Sullivan Court Hotel; Selbourne Road.
Places to Stay
Hotel tariffs shoot up during the high (summer) season (April to mid-June) so try to visit Ooty outside these times to not only get more value for your money, but also more peace and quiet.
Located in the Fernhill Palace grounds is Regency Villas, once a maharaja's hunting lodge. The rooms may not be particularly plush, but they're clean and comfortable, with an endearing old-world charm. Some of the floral-and-swirl-printed curtains and sofa coverings bring back memories of grandma's place. South Lake Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 2555.
King's Cliff, poetically positioned up on Strawberry Hill, is a tastefully decorated colonial mansion filled with lovely antique furnishings and fine touches such as wood paneling. There are only nine rooms, all with fireplaces, each named after a Shakespearean character. The more expensive rooms have porches with sterling countryside views. Havelock Road; tel. +91 (0)423 245 2888.
The mid-range Willow Hotel offers spacious wooden-floored rooms, each with cheerful light-filled interiors; the most expensive room comes with its very own little garden. Positioned above town, the Willow makes the most of its superb position with large windows and ample outdoor space. 58/1 Havelock Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 4037.
One of the nicest budget lodgings is the family-run Reflections Guest House which overlooks a lake (request a good lake-view room). The rooms are not fancy but offer good value and, with advance notice, wholesome homemade meals. All rooms have attached bathrooms with hot water in the mornings. North Lake Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 3834.
General Tips
Don't leave Ooty without sampling its legendary homemade chocolate; the town's premiere chocolate-maker is Kings Corner, located just north of Charing Cross.
For More Information
Ooty Tourist Office Wenlock Road; tel. +91 (0)423 244 3977.
Ooty
