Chennai (Madras)
Once comprising a mere sprinkling of villages, Chennai (formerly Madras) is today the fourth-largest city in India and the international gateway for tours of south India. Few travelers spend more than a day or two here because of the chaos and crowds, but it's worth setting aside at least a few days if you want to get to know this gracious city beyond its cantankerous facade.
How to Get There
Apart from servicing international flights, Chennai also has a busy domestic air schedule linking it to major Indian cities. The enormous Chennai Mofussil Bus Terminus, a few miles west of the center, is the hub for buses from a multitude of destinations. Chennai is also accessible by rail, with trains arriving and departing from Delhi, Calcutta, Bangalore, Hyderabad, and Mumbai (just to name a few cities). Most southbound trains leave from the Egmore train station, while most of those heading west or to other states depart from the Central Station.
How to Get Around
Autorickshaws are the best mode of getting around Chennai as they can weave through the traffic more quickly than taxis. Chennai has a city train service that is usually more efficient and less crowded than its local bus service.
Attractions
Wander around old-style George Town, with its remnants of a 17th-century fort, the St. Mary's Church, and the imposing Indo-Saracenic High Court.
Housing a superb collection of items, from temple art to bronze sculpture, is the Government Museum. Nearby is the National Art Gallery, which has a fascinating display of Indian regional pieces, some spanning back to the tenth century.
Places to Eat
Apart from its excellent South Indian restaurants (mainly vegetarian), Chennai has a range of multicuisine places to eat. For fine dining, try an upmarket hotel restaurant.
Saravana Bhavan is wholeheartedly recommended for its classic vegetarian South Indian fare, with delicious dosas, warming rasam, spongy idlis and other southern goodies. 133-134 Peters Road and other locations in Chennai.
A perennial favorite with locals and travelers is the modest Bhoopathy Café, which serves cheap, tasty vegetarian dishes, most costing no more than $1.33. Gandhi Irwin Road.
For Western-style fare—burgers, steaks, sandwiches and the like—charge into the Gallopin' Gooseberry. With its American diner theme, this is a good place to come if you need a break from Indian food. They also make revitalizing shakes and freshly squeezed juices. 11 Greams Road.
Places to Stay
Chennai has a shortage of decent mid-range accommodation options, though there are plenty of budget and top-end offerings. It's advisable to make advance reservations during the busy December to mid-February period.
One of the most popular budget choices is Broadlands Lodge, which has rooms with or without bathrooms (the shared bathrooms could do with a facelift). This place has a faded colonial charm, with rooms arranged around a courtyard. The most desirable of these are in the back portion, on the top level. 18 Vallabha Agraharam Street, Triplicane; tel. +91 (0)44 2854 5573; e-mail broadlandshotel@yahoo.com.
The modern Hotel Orchid Inn is one of Chennai's best mid-range establishments, with reasonably spacious rooms, all with satellite television. 19 Woods Road, Triplicane; tel. +91 (0)44 2852 2555.
Those seeking creature comforts should like the opulent Hotel Park Sheraton & Towers, which has immaculate rooms that have all the trimmings you'd expect of a five-star hotel. There's a host of amenities including a good health club and well-equipped business center. 132 TTK Road, Alwarpet; tel. +91 (0)44 2499 4101.
General Tips
To find out what's happening in the city at the time of your visit, get a copy (free) of the fortnightly CityInfo which lists the hottest night spots, restaurants and much more; copies are available at tourist offices and some hotels.
For More Information
India Tourism 154 Anna Salai; tel. +91 (0)44 2846 0285.
ChennaiBest.com
