Mumbai (Bombay)

Welcome to India's adrenaline-pumping commercial capital, home to the world's biggest film-producing center, Bollywood. A spectacular melting pot of pan-Indian cultures, customs, and cuisines, Mumbai is in a league of its own. With a population of 16.5 million—and growing—it is also the country's most congested metropolis, with some of Asia's biggest slums. Despite its shortcomings, however, this tenacious, enigmatic city continues to draw thousands from all over India, who flock here to make a better life for themselves and their families in what has affectionately been dubbed the "City of Dreams."

How to Get There
Mumbai is a major center for international flights. It also is a hub for domestic flights, linking it to about 35 Indian cities, and for bus and train lines. Opt for a train where possible, especially for long trips; the trains are far more comfortable than the buses. If you want to travel by bus, note that private bus operators offer more comfort than the state-run buses.

Mumbai has two major train services: Central Railways caters primarily to eastern and southern destinations and generally operates from the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus; Western Railways mainly services northern destinations, from the Mumbai Central terminus.

How to Get Around
Mumbai has plenty of taxis, which are a great way to zip around the city; note that between midnight and 5 a.m. there is an additional 25 percent "night" fee. Another option: autorickshaws, three-wheeled motorized vehicles, but these are restricted to the region north of Mahim Creek. Mumbai has an inexpensive suburban train service, but it can get crowded, especially during the morning and afternoon rush hours (avoid traveling during these times). There is also a city bus service—comprised of single and double-decker vehicles—that offers a cheap way to cover short distances; for details, routes, and fares, click on "Route Network."

Attractions
Overlooking Mumbai's harbor, the iconic Gateway of India was built by the British to commemorate England's King George V and Queen Mary's 1911 visit to India. Ironically, it's also the place where many of the British departed India when the country won its independence. Nowadays, the open area around this grand arch has something of a carnival ambience, attracting Indian families and tourists to watch snake-charmers and street performers. Also here: plenty of food vendors.

The exclusive residential area of Malabar Hill is located on a breezy, sea-fronting peninsula. Here you'll find the Banganga temple, a four-century-old complex that is especially known for its small reservoir of holy water. Also on Malabar Hill: a colorful Jain temple, built in 1904, that is dedicated to Adinath, the first of Jainism's 24 teachers. Jainism features elements of both Hinduism and Buddhism.

The action- and aroma-packed Crawford Market sells fruits, vegetables, meats, live animals, flowers, and spices. Housed in a huge colonial Gothic-style building, the market is also a tourist stop for the frieze at the entrance's exterior, designed by Rudyard Kipling's father, Lockwood Kipling.

Still a fully functional train station, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly called the Victoria Terminus), is a magnificent Gothic example of Mumbai's colonial past. Built in the late 19th century, this ornate, cathedral-like station—now a World Heritage site—features fanciful carvings of gargoyles and animals as well as imposing domes, buttresses, and stained-glass windows.

Many visitors to Mumbai make for the jaw-dropping spectacle of thousands of dhobis (washer-people) plying their trade at the Dhobi Ghats of Mahalaxmi. The dhobis work at open-air concrete troughs, where they vigorously wash many Mumbaikers' clothing and linens, then hang them to dry.

At sunset, join the locals at Chowpatty Beach, a popular Mumbai meeting place (though it's too dirty for swimming). This is where starry-eyed couples, gossiping friends, and giggling families come to stroll, chat, and munch on bhelpuri (a popular savory snack) as the sun sinks into the sea.

Places to Eat
Mumbai has an absolutely brilliant array of places to eat, ranging from ultra-cheap street stalls to swanky five-star restaurants. You'll find a wide range of menus that include all sorts of regional Indian specialties as well as Chinese, Mexican, French, and Italian offerings.

Sink your teeth into divinely succulent tandoori food (cooked in a clay oven) as well as scrumptious Mughlai cuisine (North Indian food influenced by the Mughals) at the moderately-priced Delhi Darbar. Colaba Causeway, Colaba.

For first-rate international/fusion cuisine, make a beeline for award-winning Indigo. The food is world-class, the decor elegant, and the clientele hip and stylish. Reservations are a must. 4 Mandlik Marg, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 5636 8999.

If you can't make it to Goa, Goa Portuguesa gives you the chance to at least try Goan cuisine, from classic fish curries to spicy chicken xacuti. Kataria Road, Mahim.

Although Bade Miya is a mere street stall (with a few roadside tables and chairs), it has carved a name for itself as one of Mumbai's finest kebab joints. You won't be disappointed. Tulloch Road, Colaba.

Places to Stay
Mumbai is no bargain when it comes to accommodation, with hotels in every price bracket costing at least double (often more) than those in other major Indian cities. Many of the better places—especially budget and mid-range—are in the southern suburb of Colaba.

Built in 1903, the legendary Taj Mahal Palace & Tower is one of Mumbai's most sumptuous and historic places to stay. Boasting sterling views over the ocean and the Gateway of India, the hotel's 565 rooms are pure opulence, many with original works of art. The more expensive suites, which include a personal butler, represent the height of luxury. The hotel has a collection of fine restaurants (including the Golden Dragon, voted the best Chinese restaurant in Mumbai), shops, a health club, swimming pool, and a hip nightclub. Apollo Bunder, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 6665 3366; e-mail tmhresv.bom@tajhotels.com.

For those counting their rupees, a popular budget choice is Bentley's Hotel, comprised of several buildings; the best are on Oliver Road. A range of differently priced (but well-kept) rooms offer something for everyone, with the more expensive ones having more space, nicer furnishings, and private balconies. Bentley's can fill up fast, so book ahead. 17 Oliver Road, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 2284 1474.

The mid-range Gordon House Hotel is a charming boutique-style lodging, its pleasant rooms furnished in a mélange of European-flavored themes: Scandinavian, Country Cottage, Mediterranean (see its website for pictures of each). Some rooms can be noisy, so if you're a light sleeper request a quiet one. 5 Battery Street, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 2287 1122.

If you wish to stay reasonably close to the airport, consider the 110-room Hotel Sea Princess, which has views over Juhu Beach; airport transfers are included in the tariff. The rooms are in tip-top condition and on-site amenities include a beauty parlor, health club, and swimming pool. This hotel is considerably cheaper than most other top-end hotels in the airport locale. Juhu Tara Road, Juhu; tel. +91 (0)22 2661 1111; e-mail seaprincess@vsnl.com.

General Tips for Mumbai
If you intend to spend considerable time in Mumbai and want to familiarize yourself with the city, get a copy of the Eicher City Map Mumbai ($5.50), an excellent, comprehensive street atlas that is updated regularly. Regardless of how long you're staying, it's worth buying the information-filled Time Out Mumbai (under $1), which details current city happenings (cultural events, exhibitions, etc). Both of these publications can be found at bookshops and newsstands.

For More Information
Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation Madame Cama Road, Nariman Point; tel. +91 (0)22 2202 6713.
Government of India Tourist Office 123 Maharshi Karve Road; tel. +91 (0)22 2203 3144.